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Old 10-24-2018, 10:21 AM   #41
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My Wolf Pack 24pack14+ was delivered with four Castle Rock ST 225/75 R15, steel belted radial "E" rated tires with metal valve stems. Aren't most of these failures on the "C" rated tires?
Second question related to the nitrogen fill (gimmick?). My valve stem caps are supposed to show the green "80" indicating correct inflation. My intention is to get a TPMS, but until then is conventional wisdom not to trust these type of "pressure monitoring" caps?
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:49 AM   #42
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My original tires were ‘blowmax’, load range E, 80 psi, equipped with metal stems. No alignment issues. Mine would have either rubbed together, or experienced what happened above to Rlocicero had I not been anal about ALWAYS checking tires and pressures. By the way, the TPMS never showed any anomalies other than a bit warm, but below the warning settings. As I recall, about 20 degrees over ambient.
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:52 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by 2thdr View Post
My Wolf Pack 24pack14+ was delivered with four Castle Rock ST 225/75 R15, steel belted radial "E" rated tires with metal valve stems. Aren't most of these failures on the "C" rated tires?
Second question related to the nitrogen fill (gimmick?). My valve stem caps are supposed to show the green "80" indicating correct inflation. My intention is to get a TPMS, but until then is conventional wisdom not to trust these type of "pressure monitoring" caps?
You have load range E tires with max load at 80PSI, the pressure monitoring caps are only showing that you have the pressure for max load not that you have the correct inflation. Sidewall PSI is not always the correct inflation.

Nitrogen fills are only a gimmick if you paid for it. If you got a nitrogen fill for free, great. If you paid for it then you fell for the gimmick. The only real advantage to nitrogen fills is that it helps prevent moisture from getting inside the tire which can cause corrosion, unpredictable pressure changes with temperature changes, and tire balance problems (especially if you end up with a piece of ice inside the tire).

If you don't have pure nitrogen in your tires then don't worry, normal air is already 78% nitrogen anyway.

Nitrogen doesn't prevent pressure changes with temperature changes, it doesn't result in slower "air" loss due to molecule size, it doesn't help tires last longer because there's no oxygen to cause oxidation (The outside of the tires are always exposed to oxygen and UV rays which will cause a tire to age out), etc.

That's why paying for nitrogen fills is a waste of money.
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:53 AM   #44
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I had run my Westlake tires for 20,000 miles and replaced the with GY Endurance because I had a 3,000 mile ahead of me. Just a piece of mind.

Another thing that should be checked with the axles is the shackles on the axles. I never checked them or knew what to look for on them. After 25,000 miles the shackles failed. The holes in the shackles elongated and broke loose. A lot of them are dry bolts to dry plates (shackles) that wear. I was lucky the frame dropped on the springs and rode leaning to the side for a couple hundred miles. Just an overlooked item.
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Old 10-24-2018, 11:04 AM   #45
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You received one persons' opinion. I would think that with the thousands of trailers sold with these valve stems that Forest River has a pretty good idea what they are doing.
You are on the right track. Rarely do we hear from people who have had NO issues with their tires. Those that do post about problems often take their posts to the extreme and imply that ALL tires like the ones they had problems with are junk.

I agree that the pop in rubber valve stems can be a problem causing air loss. It was my job to buy the rubber valve stems used in a tire company chain of over 500 stores. I KNOW what these little things cost and finding quality stems for around $0.10 each is a difficult job.

Yes, TT wheels would all ideally be equipped with metal stems from the beginning but they cost more.

Different parts of the country will have more issues with tires and valve stems than others. It has to do with the amount of heat, UV exposure, and Ozone levels , in the air where the RV spends most of its time. More heat, quicker deterioration of the rubber. More UV exposure, same thing. High Ozone content of the air, ditto.

As for Castle Rocks being "China Bombs"? I just got back from my second trip of this year, traveling just under 4,000 miles each. My tires have over 10,000 miles in total since I bought the trailer. Nary a weather checking mark, no valve stem issues, and no air loss. I too monitor with a TST 507 but all it does is tell me that the pressure goes up as the tires warm and goes down when they cool.

I'll probably have my local tire dealer change the stems to metal later this fall. One thing to remember though, even metal stems have rubber seals where they fit through the wheel. They can deteriorate and leak too so don't just assume that metal stems eliminate all problems.

Final note. It seems that most of the people who've had issues with chinese tires are pulling fifth wheel trailers. Trailers that start out heavy, have lots of storage areas, and are often loaded with way more "stuff" than they are designed to carry. For those that haven't, it would be a good idea to run your rig over the scales after you have it loaded for an average trip. May be surprised at how much it may be overloaded, not only for the tires but the axles/springs as well. If that's the case then it would be no surprise that the tires would be the first to fail, regardless of "nationality". Oh yes, how fast do you like to drive? There are two speed limits. One's on the sign on the side of the highway and the other is on the sidewall of your trailer tires. Might be a good idea to stick with the speed limit on the tires. My Castle Rocks say 75 mph.
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Old 10-24-2018, 02:40 PM   #46
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It had two 3.5K axles and weighed over 8000 pounds empty.

When I got done it had two 5K axles.

Your story is invalid without the information from the vehicle certification label, GVWR, GAWRs, Tire and rim sizes and recommended tire inflation pressures. They tell the story as built.
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Old 10-24-2018, 02:43 PM   #47
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Your story is invalid without the information from the vehicle certification label, GVWR, GAWRs, Tire and rim sizes and recommended tire inflation pressures. They tell the story as built.
Not to mention if that really did happen there is NO way he would have to pay for that out of pocket to fix, the manufacturer would happily fix it for free rather than risk a lawsuit. If the certification sticker didn't match the axles then that would be even more hot water for the manufacturer. Something doesn't add up.
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Old 10-24-2018, 02:47 PM   #48
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It had two 3.5K axles and weighed over 8000 pounds empty.

When I got done it had two 5K axles.

Adding axles with more load capacity does nothing to the trailers specifications other than providing load capacity reserves. Remember, the GVWR is the limiter and adding higher load capacity axles does nothing to increase the limiter's maximum value.
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Old 10-24-2018, 03:18 PM   #49
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The OPs post has got sidetracked into a tire condition thread. His original point was defective valve stems. It’s a serious problem most trailer owners overlook.

In most instances, Original Equipment tire/wheel assemblies are provided from an OEM provider. They are filling the trailer manufacturer’s request for specific specifications to be married to a vehicle having those specifications.

Included in the wheel/tire assembly is the necessary valve stem. Like tires and wheels they come in various sizes and designs. Their body will be constructed from a combination of rubber/plastics and metal or all metal. They all have some sort of certified pressure rating. They all have internal rubber or synthetic seals. They wear and crack and are normally replaced when the tire is replaced. All will have a cap. The cap is very important because it has a seal as a secondary protection from leaks caused by internal failures within the valve.

The USTMA and RVIA recommend steel valve stems be installed on all RV trailer wheels during the first tire change.

About 10 years ago, NHTSA ordered a massive recall for millions of valve stems. Here is a link that explains the action.

https://abc30.com/archive/6321302/


Don't bypass checking your valve stems when checking your tires. After any tire inflation event do a bubble check on the valve before reinstalling its cap.
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Old 10-24-2018, 03:43 PM   #50
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About 10 years ago, NHTSA ordered a massive recall for millions of valve stems. Here is a link that explains the action.

https://abc30.com/archive/6321302/

I retired from the tire industry 15 years ago and missed this recall. Glad to see it happen. For a long while tire dealers and suppliers were in a death spiral trying to see who could buy/sell valve stems the cheapest.

Sad to see Dill fall victim to the chinese valve stem trap. For a long time they were one of the last bastions of quality valve stems.
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:38 PM   #51
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Simple, boycott Chinese products.


In general, they are garbage.
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:40 PM   #52
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Our 2013 was bought new in 2014, by early 2015 all 5 tyre stems were cracking and leaking.

The spare had never been used, was under it's cover on the TT in our possession. When we first looked at this trailer in the late summer of 2013 then again in the spring of 14 the spare was kept in the TT at the dealers as with most of their inventory.

When we found this issue we replaced with metal stems.


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Old 10-29-2018, 07:47 PM   #53
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Simple, boycott Chinese products.


In general, they are garbage.


Wow!

That's a very wide paintbrush you are using!
I would humbly suggest you look at the majority of manufactured goods you buy for it's "Made In" label to see where is was made.

What would your guess be when you see a label that says " Made in the USA with domestic and imported items"?


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Old 10-29-2018, 07:58 PM   #54
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Chinese garbage

I am also very skeptical of "Made In...".
We are being lied to by corporations.


But specifically to China, they produce junk and you know it.


Spend the extra dollars and buy American or Canadian.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:02 PM   #55
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I think the simple reason they use Castle Rock tires is they are cheap and they just don't care. They don't care if you brand new rig gets destroyed going down the road. They hope you will just buy another one. I went from the RV dealer straight to Big-O and got rid of the Castle Rock tires death trap tires. VERY sad state of affairs as far as I am concerned.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:04 PM   #56
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[QUOTE=marinerjoe;1956330]Wow! I've had no problems so far, other than the valve stems not being high pressure and the dry rot. I'm going to be changing the tires before long. Thanks everyone for your inputs. I've got about 4,000 miles on these, and am going to be VERY cautious now.[/QUOTE


i agree many of the blowoust can be related to bad valve stems . even where tread separation occurred it could have been caused bad a bad slowly leaking valve stem
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:05 PM   #57
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What is the best tire to replace the "china bombs" with!
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:09 PM   #58
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China bombs

Buy the best USA, Canadian, German tire you can afford.


Buy it from someone like Discount Tire (i.e. deep pockets). They cannot afford a lawsuit.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:23 PM   #59
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Simple, boycott Chinese products.


In general, they are garbage.
He says as he's typing on his computer that more likely than not has a "Made in China" sticker on it.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:27 PM   #60
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Chinese bombs

Keyboards don't kill.
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