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Old 03-02-2021, 05:25 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by llr View Post
Unless you have a 50A outlet and are using a 50-30 RV adapter, unplug the camper and do not plug it in until it is fixed.

Do you have a volt meter? Are you comfortably working around live power? Who installed the outlet? A picture of the outlet will help too.
I do have a volt meter. I am comfortable. Just wondering if I was told wrong. I used a 50 amp breaker to a 30 amp plug. Was told this would decrease the drop.
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Old 03-02-2021, 05:36 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Daniel R. Harrelson View Post
I do have a volt meter. I am comfortable. Just wondering if I was told wrong. I used a 50 amp breaker to a 30 amp plug. Was told this would decrease the drop.
Yes I would say you were told wrong. You need to use a 30 amp single pole 120 volt breaker in your panel.
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Old 03-02-2021, 05:40 PM   #23
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Yes I would say you were told wrong. You need to use a 30 amp single pole 120 volt breaker in your panel.
I will get this taken care of this evening. I appreciate the help.
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Old 03-02-2021, 05:41 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Daniel R. Harrelson View Post
I do have a volt meter. I am comfortable. Just wondering if I was told wrong. I used a 50 amp breaker to a 30 amp plug. Was told this would decrease the drop.
The 6 ga wire is what effects the voltage drop not the breaker. The outlet you wired had 3 different colored screws. The Brass colored screw gets either black or red wire. you don't use the other color just cap it off. The nickel(silver) colored screw gets the white wire. The green hex headed screw gets the bare wire that was in the 6/3 cable. At the panel presuming it's the house service panel the bare wire and the white wire go onto the neutral bar. Black and red go to breakers but remember you only used one of them at the outlet.
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Old 03-02-2021, 06:06 PM   #25
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Wire like this.......accept no substitutes.
That's a misleading picture. The u shaped opening at the top gets the green wire, the lower left slot gets the black. I see the little green loop but if somebody wired it just glancing at the picture they'd get it wrong
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Old 03-02-2021, 06:29 PM   #26
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Daniel, welcome aboard although I wish it had been under better circumstances. We keep a sticky in the FAQ section about wiring 30 amp RV outlets. If you did connect this outlet directly to a double pole breaker, you most likely have damage. I always see the converter needing replacing when this happens, and the television, microwave, as well as some other things are kind of hit and miss.


Check out this thread and print out the pdf file to give to an electrician.


https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...let-27223.html


Since you stated you are new to the camper world, this link below is aimed at those just starting out. It has the link above about the 30 amp outlet as well as other tidbits that may help as you begin.


https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ts-157524.html
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Old 03-03-2021, 06:53 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Daniel R. Harrelson View Post

I am hoping that this is something simple. Anyone have any ideas?

I appreciate your thoughts and help in advance.
Did you find the problem?
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Old 03-03-2021, 07:47 AM   #28
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So I just read the thread. Correct me if I am wrong. Sounds like the OP sent 220 power to the RV instead of 110? If I am correct, I have read of this happening before on Mike Sokol's Youtube channel that resulted in fires.

Couldn't the OP reconnect the TT to a 15 or 20 amp 110 existing outlet and ascertain if there is any damage? Isn't it possible that the breakers and fuses did their job and there is no damage?
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:16 AM   #29
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So I just read the thread. Correct me if I am wrong. Sounds like the OP sent 220 power to the RV instead of 110? If I am correct, I have read of this happening before on Mike Sokol's Youtube channel that resulted in fires.

Couldn't the OP reconnect the TT to a 15 or 20 amp 110 existing outlet and ascertain if there is any damage? Isn't it possible that the breakers and fuses did their job and there is no damage?

If he connected his 30A 120volt trailer to 50A 240V supply he most likely has damage. And he reset the breaker and tried it multiple times....
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:19 AM   #30
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Isn't it possible that the breakers and fuses did their job and there is no damage?

Circuit breakers are designed to trip from over/excess current (amps) or short circuits. If the member was connected to a 240 volt circuit breaker, it wouldn't have excess amps.


https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/produ...damentals.html


I have been involved in many threads on these forums where a member somehow had the 30 amp outlet wired for 240 volts. In every case the converter gets fried (or gave up the ghost in short order after the 240 voltage).
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:26 AM   #31
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Hopefully he returns and lets us know what the wiring mistake was.
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:36 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
Circuit breakers are designed to trip from over/excess current (amps) or short circuits. If the member was connected to a 240 volt circuit breaker, it wouldn't have excess amps.


https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/produ...damentals.html


I have been involved in many threads on these forums where a member somehow had the 30 amp outlet wired for 240 volts. In every case the converter gets fried (or gave up the ghost in short order after the 240 voltage).
Certainly sounds logical. Regarding the amperage, what caused the breakers to trip? The only thing I can think of is that the converter fried to the extent that something melted and grounded out? The OP did't mention any hot smells.



I wonder what the extent of the damage is? Would like to know for educational purposes. Is the converter ground zero because it is usually always on? What about the battery? A converter replacement is only around 250 dollars, not a big deal for an RV owner.
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:54 AM   #33
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This happens all too often but what can we do?

Many times folks, owners and licensed electricians make this mistake and put 240v on a 120v trailer.
The battery itself is probably un-harmed but anything that's 120v is suspect of damage.
Converter
Microwave
TV
Refrigerator control board
Fingers crossed it's just the converter.
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:57 AM   #34
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Circuit breakers are designed to trip from over/excess current (amps) or short circuits. If the member was connected to a 240 volt circuit breaker, it wouldn't have excess amps.

.
Depends how the wires are landed at the outlet. For example the 2 hots are landed on the hot and neutral terminal, when the 120 volt air conditioner turns on too much voltage shorts out the motor windings/starting capacitor and the breaker trips from the overload.

We'll have to wait to hear from him how is was miswired.
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:49 AM   #35
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We'll have to wait to hear from him how is was miswired.
The answer is simple to find if one has a Multimeter (cheap or expensive, just needs to be able to read AC voltage) and places probes on the two blade contacts of the receptacle (not the round "u-ground" opening).

If the voltage is 120 volts it was not mis-wired. If 240 volts then it was.


If the latter there could be a myriad of things now causing the breaker to trip.

If 120 volts are read then something connected to the AC supply has failed. Converter, Hot Water Heater, Refrigerator, or even a bad outlet will have to be sorted out.

Diagnosing the problem all starts by measuring the voltage at the two outlet slots.

FWIW, I think ALL RV's should come from the factory with a simple multimeter and a laminated sheet of instructions. Kind of like a lug wrench and jack. Sooner or later you are going to need it.
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:55 AM   #36
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The answer is simple to find if one has a Multimeter
I guess since we don't have one handy at OUR keyboards to measure HIS outlet we'll have to wait to hear from him.
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:58 AM   #37
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The resulting issue is easy to diagnose, but the real problem is how to prevent this from happening in the first place and I am not sure there is a good answer. Much of the time the mistake is made by someone not familiar with RV wiring and either doing the job or providing expert? advice. Unfortunately our first interaction with these new owners is when they join the forum to ask how to rectify an issue which already occurred.
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Old 03-03-2021, 11:05 AM   #38
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I guess since we don't have one handy at OUR keyboards to measure HIS outlet we'll have to wait to hear from him.
Perhaps the RV of the future will come with "Remote Access" for all systems.

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Old 03-03-2021, 11:26 AM   #39
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What the OP did was difficult for me to follow and I wasn't sure what he did in the end. My first inclination was that maybe he wired it correctly but had too many elecrical componets plugged in on the "on" position and when he turned on the main breaker the system couldn't handle it.

Many times on used TTs with no power, perspective buyers come in and look at the appliances and turn the switch on and leave them on and walk away. A 30 amp system can supply only 3600 watts which means that you can only use a certain amount of your electrical devices. Turning them on all at once will produce the noise that the OP mentioned.
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Old 03-03-2021, 11:31 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by PhilFromMaine View Post
What the OP did was difficult for me to follow and I wasn't sure what he did in the end. My first inclination was that maybe he wired it correctly but had too many elecrical componets plugged in on the "on" position and when he turned on the main breaker the system couldn't handle it.

Many times on used TTs with no power, perspective buyers come in and look at the appliances and turn the switch on and leave them on and walk away. A 30 amp system can supply only 3600 watts which means that you can only use a certain amount of your electrical devices. Turning them on all at once will produce the noise that the OP mentioned.
A bit confusing for sure but the OP did respond in a later post the 30a outlet was fed with a 50a double breaker. That spells 240v trouble on what is to be a 120v outlet.
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