First, I feel your pain.
On my rig, the rear-most spring hangers broke clean off. And a main leaf spring on the rear axle curb side broke in half.
But what you have there is a complete, utter disaster.
I believe this can be repaired satisfactorily by a mobile welder.
My Dad was certified to weld on nuclear containment vessels. This job would be easy for him.
What he'd do:
1. Jack the trailer and block it so it's supported by the frame.
2. Remove the suspension to enable him to work unfettered.
3. Disconnect and remove, or otherwise protect wiring and propane lines.
4. And now down to business:
4-A. Grind out the cracks and weld them...preferably from the opposite side of step 4-B to allow flush application of a fishplate.
4-B. "
Fishplate" a repair over the cracked portion of the frame. An extra layer of steel, perhaps 1/4" thick to reinforce the repair weld and stiffen that section of the frame.
4-C. Replace the pathetic gussets tack welded to your frame with stronger gussets (again, 1/4" plate) welded the full length of the gusset.
4-D. Remove the spring hangers and reinforce the frame and add gussets to prevent twisting of the frame by the spring hangars.
This is an extremely abridged description of the repair, but a GOOD, reputable welder will know how to do the job and do it well.
The more you can do in advance to prep for the job, the less it will cost you for the welder. Ideally, you'd have the rig up on blocks, the suspension/axles removed, and a good, stout bottle jack on hand for the welder to use to straighten the frame a bit before doing the work...if the frame has sagged at all. Paying welder prices to have the welder do this prep work will be costly.
Several caveats.
This job entails HEAVY welding on the frame...which can translate to LOTS OF HEAT transferring to the flooring in your rig. Planning the job to allow time for cooling between welds on smaller portions of the job will be important. Unlike replacing spring hangars and adding gussets around the spring hangers, welding on such large sections of the frame will transfer enough heat to the floor of the rig to raise concerns. Someone must be on standby with a fire extinguisher. And the welder must perform each section of the job in phases.
You will add considerable weight to the rig. Weigh your materials before installing them (fishplate, gussets, etc.) and REDUCE your cargo carrying capacity accordingly when the job is done. You will likely add between 100 qand 200 pounds of steel to the frame. Whatever the weight, it must come off your CCC or you'll overload the rig.
All of this structural abuse suggests that your tires have endured abuse from misalignment. Inspect your tires carefully and replace as needed.
LAST THOUGHT: This is a long shot, but before you do anything, you might want to look into a factory replacement of the frame. While your rig is "old"...2017 modelj, this kind of catastrophic failure might fall under the purview your state's or federal DOT and/or NHTSA or similar. This kind of disintegration of your frame is a highway safety issue...far beyond the scope of a standard warranty repair. It's the kind of thing that might lead to a recall. I wouldn't know where to begin looking, but there's a slim but real chance that you could get a whole new frame or rig out of this. Again a LONG SHOT. Pursue this angle if you think it might be worthwhile.
PS A friend who is also an NFS camp host had significant structural problems with his fiver. He brought it to Elkhart, IN, and they completely overhauled the rig to repair the structural issues, and they set up his wife and him in a loaner while they performed the work. His rig was newer, but far from brand new. That's part of the motivation for the comment above.
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
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