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03-31-2023, 11:50 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Southern California
Posts: 20
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confused about water heater
Our 2017 3250rl has a Suburban SW12DE water heater.
Acording to the spec sheet, this unit is both gas and electric. I saw a black on/off toggle switch when I opened the outside service cover.
The inside control panel display has a gas water heater on/off function, but nothing for turning on the electric heating element.
Is the electric heating element just not connected from the factory or is there some other control switch somewhere?
Thanks
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04-01-2023, 12:39 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amauri
Our 2017 3250rl has a Suburban SW12DE water heater.
Acording to the spec sheet, this unit is both gas and electric. I saw a black on/off toggle switch when I opened the outside service cover.
The inside control panel display has a gas water heater on/off function, but nothing for turning on the electric heating element.
Is the electric heating element just not connected from the factory or is there some other control switch somewhere?
Thanks
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The SWDE models of Suburban water heaters only have the gas switch inside the RV, with the electric element switch located outside on the face of the water heater.....as yours does.
See this thread we keep in the FAQ section which explains the operation of.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ore-36197.html
__________________
 2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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04-01-2023, 06:04 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: WNC
Posts: 560
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The electric switch is on the WH itself... I believe the reasoning is that you can also open the blow of valve to make sure there is water in the heater so you don't burn out the element.
__________________
Retired Paramedic
2020 FSX 280RT
2005 Silverado 1500 Ext cab 5.3 H.O.
2011 HD Road King
Nights camped since 2019.....all of Em...Homes a 2001 Sea Breeze 36' 5 ER
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04-01-2023, 07:45 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 544
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My switch is always ON and I use the circuit breaker in my panel to control the heater element. My tank stays full until the winter draining. Plugged in at home I don't need hot water so the breaker is off. If I camp with shore power, then I flip it on.
Circuit breakers aren't really supposed to be used as switches but I do the same with my convertor and refrigerator breakers.
__________________
2019 Palomino Solaire 147X
2013 Ford F150
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04-01-2023, 07:57 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,560
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My circuit breaker is always ON. I use the black switch on the face of my water heater to turn my element ON and OFF because I stand 3 feet from it when I hook my water hose to the trailer when I arrive at a campsite and when I unhook my hose when I leave.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69 |
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04-02-2023, 07:21 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Southern California
Posts: 20
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Thank you all for the helpfull tips, and specially the
FAQ link that explained everything I needed to know.
What threw me off is that our previous trailer had both switches on the control panel. It must have been a newer type DLE heater.
We bought the Cardinal used, and l assumed it was gas only. After reading the FAQ, I realized that the heating element was bad (ohm meter test shows infinite).
CW had the OEM part in stock for less than $15 out the door.
DW is happy now.
Thanks again.
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04-02-2023, 07:35 PM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amauri
Thank you all for the helpfull tips, and specially the
FAQ link that explained everything I needed to know.
What threw me off is that our previous trailer had both switches on the control panel. It must have been a newer type DLE heater.
We bought the Cardinal used, and l assumed it was gas only. After reading the FAQ, I realized that the heating element was bad (ohm meter test shows infinite).
CW had the OEM part in stock for less than $15 out the door.
DW is happy now.
Thanks again.
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It wasn't a newer type - it was made by the other manufacturer.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69 |
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04-02-2023, 07:42 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 9,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amauri
I realized that the heating element was bad (ohm meter test shows infinite).
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Make certain that water heater is full of water BEFORE you turn on the electric element. Otherwise, you may burn out the electric element and end up back at the store.
Glad you got it fixed.
__________________
2015 Dynamax REV 24TB class C
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04-02-2023, 07:48 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 4,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Dan
It wasn't a newer type - it was made by the other manufacturer.
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Respectfully, that would be incorrect. It does not have to be made by the other manufacturer. Amauri currently has a Suburban SW12DE water heater which has only the outside switch for the electric element. Previously, it was very possible that Amauri had a Suburban SW12DEL, SW12DELC, SW6DEL, or SW6DELC water heater. The "L" in the model number indicates it comes with the 12v DC relay required for an inside electric water heater switch. The "C" in the model number indicates it comes with a plug-in cord for the electric element.
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04-02-2023, 08:05 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyLCDR
Respectfully, that would be incorrect. It does not have to be made by the other manufacturer. Amauri currently has a Suburban SW12DE water heater which has only the outside switch for the electric element. Previously, it was very possible that Amauri had a Suburban SW12DEL, SW12DELC, SW6DEL, or SW6DELC water heater. The "L" in the model number indicates it comes with the 12v DC relay required for an inside electric water heater switch. The "C" in the model number indicates it comes with a plug-in cord for the electric element.
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OK, I should have said "it could have been made by the other manufacturer" then it wouldn't have been incorrect - but thanks for watching.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69 |
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04-03-2023, 01:20 AM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amauri
Thank you all for the helpfull tips, and specially the
FAQ link that explained everything I needed to know.
What threw me off is that our previous trailer had both switches on the control panel. It must have been a newer type DLE heater.
We bought the Cardinal used, and l assumed it was gas only. After reading the FAQ, I realized that the heating element was bad (ohm meter test shows infinite).
CW had the OEM part in stock for less than $15 out the door.
DW is happy now.
Thanks again.
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Fantastic, glad you got it all worked out. Nothing like a happy DW. 
As far as your previous RV having both switches inside the RV, you very well could have had the Suburban brand SWDEL model as NavyLCDR suggested......or you could have had another brand (Dometic/Atwood) that has both switches inside as Mr. Dan suggested.
The easy way to know if you had the Suburban brand or the Dometic/Atwood brand on the previous RV, is to remember the draining of it and if it had an anode rod. See pic below for a pic of an anode rod (which is not to be confused with the electric heating element).
Suburban brand tank type water heaters use a porcelain lined steel tank, which utilizes an anode rod. Removal/replacement of this anode rod is how you drain the tank. Please see the videos about Suburban tanks that we also keep in the FAQ section as it also applies to your current RV with the SW12DE water heater you now have. Video #1 at the link below will explain the function/replacement of the anode rod.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...es-135977.html
Now, if your previous RV instead had the Dometic/Atwood brand water heater, then it had an aluminum tank, thus no need for an anode rod. The drain plug on this brand is usually just a plastic/nylon plug. See pic below:
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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