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Old 03-29-2016, 06:09 PM   #1
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E1Code on 2010 Dometic Refrigerator

I left my fridge on electric they the winter. When I readied it for our first camping of the season I noticed an E1 code flashing. My RV mechanic insists that E1 signals a problem with the gas side of the fridge. I told him I had it on electric. Long story short he cleaned the gas side out and said it was fixed. The next day I checked and still had the code. He checked it again and said it was fixed and again it was not. What can I tell him to check. One reader board said a power surge they the converter can cause the problem. Help!!! I have a 2010 Cardinal3625 5er.


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Old 03-31-2016, 10:44 PM   #2
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E1 is a gas code. To reset code you must turn off power then turn it back on
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Old 04-01-2016, 06:47 AM   #3
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E1Code on 2010 Dometic Refrigerator

I'm pretty sure E1 is loss of communication.
Nope, that's for the heating and cooling thermostat sorry.



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Old 04-01-2016, 08:29 AM   #4
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I was getting that code also and it turned out my converter was bad so guess it was affecting the power source, installed new converter and now no problem.
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Old 04-08-2016, 04:22 AM   #5
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Thanks all! I've pretty well ruled out gas issue because it's happening on 120v. I'm moving on to the converter and then the control board. It almost has to be one of the two. I'm glad it works fine on 120.


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Old 04-28-2016, 05:03 AM   #6
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Well, the camper is still in the shop. They have replaced a couple circuit boards and on the 3rd. I told them about the converter and they said it checked fine. I'm about ready to tell them to forget it as fridge works fine on gas and electric. It's just a nuisance factor now.


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Old 04-28-2016, 11:53 AM   #7
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We had a 2009 Cardinal with a domestic drive that had a readout on top. On ours I replaced the converter to stop the error. There is a small circuit board in the converter that smooths out the 12 volts it makes. To confirm this run a jumper wire + and - to the fridge back and unplug the 12v and 120v power to it. Jump the 12v to the fridge. Give it 24 hrs and if it won't error then it is your power converter.
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:54 AM   #8
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Other wise your converter is making bad 12v power.
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Old 04-28-2016, 12:03 PM   #9
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sg6923,
Are you sure it runs OK on 120v? The 120v is for the heater in the fridge. Otherwise you would use propane. Your electronics are powered by 12v DC regardless. If your power converter is bad it should error out on shore power and propane.
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97flhtcui View Post
sg6923,
Are you sure it runs OK on 120v? The 120v is for the heater in the fridge. Otherwise you would use propane. Your electronics are powered by 12v DC regardless. If your power converter is bad it should error out on shore power and propane.


Heater in the fridge? What?
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:44 PM   #11
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Your propane is to heat the ammonia. When on 120v you have an electric heater.
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Old 04-30-2016, 03:50 AM   #12
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Thanks for the additional information. The fridge works fine on 120, 22 and gas. They replaced all the circuit boards and checked the converter, at my insistence based on your recommendations. It checked out fine. Domestic said that failure is internal and can't be fixed. As I have extended warranty they're replacing the refrigerator. It'll be interesting if that still doesn't fix it. Maybe they didn't check the converter. 😐 fingers crossed it will. Thanks all. I'll keep you posted.


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Old 04-30-2016, 09:54 AM   #13
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Glad to here they are giving you a new fridge. When we had our Cardinal and had error codes on the display I talked to a tech at camper clinic in buda Texas that enlighten me as possible troubleshooting methods and it really helped. Hope it all turns out for you.
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Old 05-02-2016, 12:21 PM   #14
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Thanks. I'll post what happens. It should be replaced this week.


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Old 06-07-2016, 02:24 AM   #15
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Well, I have a brand new fridge in the 5er. Problem is...it doesn't work!! I did for about 5 days reaching a cool 41 degrees. When I got ready to take it out for the first time, it was reading 60. The freezer seems to work fine. I contacted Dometic and the stated it was likely a blocked cooler that can only be fixed by replacing the cooler or the fridge. Frustrating!! I tried on electric and gas with same results. It goes in the shop, again, today.


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Old 06-07-2016, 06:00 AM   #16
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If the freezer is working the fridge has to be .
What was the temp in freezer?


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Old 06-07-2016, 03:26 PM   #17
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Sg6923,
During the summer ours would get up to 60 deg with the temp in the 90s outside. Our freezer was down to 5 deg. Check your gasket on the fridge door. Make sure it is clean and the mating surfaces are also clean with no shipping tape or other things in the way. When you close the door it should suck it in. If you freezer is working normally, it may be your door gasket not sealing or even the thermocouple.
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Old 06-09-2016, 05:41 AM   #18
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I didn't check the freezer temp but the food remained frozen. Dometic said was a blocked cooler. The door seems to be well sealed. I think I said when it was first put in it worked fine. Camped last weekend and it didn't budge off 60. I talked briefly with mechanic yesterday. He said the old fridge had a circulating fan and the new one didn't. He put it on and we'll see today if it worked. Thanks for your comments!


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Old 06-09-2016, 10:08 AM   #19
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Good luck. I hatted summers with ours. It was so hard keeping it cool during the day then recover at night. Hopefully they will get her going again for you.
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Old 06-10-2016, 03:12 PM   #20
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Success. The bird is back in the best with a nice cold fridge; a cool 36 degrees. Mechanic said the old fridge had a circulation fan and the new one didn't have it. Surprised they didn't notice that when installing the new one. Nevertheless, I'm a happy camper. Had the brakes replaced and bearings packed (ouch!) that needed to be done. Now ready to roll on down the road. Happy Camping!!


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