Anode Rod

loganmartin · 10-25-2012, 06:48 PM

I have some questions regarding the anode rod. Any help is much appreciated.

1. Can anyone else verify the size of the anode as 1 1/16? This size is available in a set of 8 or 10 sockets for $70.

1" would be waaaaaay better on the ol' wallet.

The manual does not state the size.

2. The manual states that the rod should be changed every year...does this seem to be what everyone is getting out of theirs? Is thread sealer a must do?

Thanks Again,

LM

ParkManCan · 10-25-2012, 06:56 PM

Most anode rods do use a 1 1/16" socket, got ours at Lowes for $6 (1/2" drive) Depending on the water the rod breaks down slowly, ours barely wore down at all after the first season, I can see it lasting a few years.

Old car · 10-25-2012, 07:05 PM

1-1/16" on mine for a 1/2" drive socket. Don't remember the cost but I bought an individual socket at one of the big box hardware chains. Just pulled my anode rod the other night and after two full seasons ours shows very little erosion. We will definitely get next season out of it and at this pace; many more.

Timex · 10-25-2012, 07:25 PM

Got my socket at Lowes also. I use a breaker bar with a socket on the end as a lug wrench. Just switch the sockets for the anode rod. Pic #3 is after 18 months of ownership.

loganmartin · 10-25-2012, 07:49 PM

Sounds like Lowes is the the place then....6 bucks is right up my alley. Home Depot just had it in a larger set with a bunch of sockets I don't need. Any thoughts on thread sealer?

Thanks,

LM

rawlus · 10-25-2012, 07:53 PM

Individual socket, got mine at northern tool for cheap. Use a breaker bar with swivel in the end, 1\2" drive also at northern tool.

For threads use Teflon tape, you do not need to torque it down too hard, just enough that it doesn't leak. The Teflon will help keep the threads from corroding and locking the whole thing together so it's impossible to budge.

Anode should last a good long time depending in water quality, even longer if you drain the water heater between trips.

OldCoot · 10-25-2012, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loganmartin

Sounds like Lowes is the the place then....6 bucks is right up my alley. Home Depot just had it in a larger set with a bunch of sockets I don't need. Any thoughts on thread sealer?

Thanks,

LM

Teflon tape only, about 3 or 4 rounds and only tighten enough to keep it from leaking. Recommend putting it in finger tight and turn the city water on and slowly tighten until it quits leaking.

loganmartin · 10-25-2012, 08:03 PM

Those are good tips fellas....I do appreciate it. The outside of my current anode was rusty when I got the camper this spring so it could be gone by now...we'll see in the a.m.

LM

rawlus · 10-25-2012, 08:13 PM

I would be very surprised if it lasted only one season. It can take years to corrode down to the core wire.

VinceU · 10-25-2012, 08:13 PM

Seeing some anodes near perfect after 12-18 months = something is wrong! Its really called sacrificial anode and is designed to give it self up to surrounding metal.
Does anyone ever use a resistance meter (multimeter) to check center of anode nut to frame? The annode will not work if not grounded. Too much tape or dope could insulate the rod from the frame

Timex · 10-25-2012, 08:21 PM

Here's what mine looked like on the outside. This pic #3 shows me how I supported the weight while reinstalling. You have to make sure it screws directly in or you will crossthread it and have a big headache.

hkreck · 10-25-2012, 08:25 PM

I got a 1 1/16 socket at sears for about $4 but then I had to get a small extension for another $6 to get into the area with. I still had to hit the anrod head a few times with a hammer to lossen it up which isn't easy to do anyway.

loganmartin · 10-25-2012, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timex

Here's what mine looked like on the outside. This pic #3 shows me how I supported the weight while reinstalling. You have to make sure it screws directly in or you will crossthread it and have a big headache.

That's about how mine looks. Was that rod still a go?

loganmartin · 10-25-2012, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hkreck

I got a 1 1/16 socket at sears for about $4 but then I had to get a small extension for another $6 to get into the area with. I still had to hit the anrod head a few times with a hammer to lossen it up which isn't easy to do anyway.

Yes, I could be in for a battle in the morning...I'll try not be a bull in a china shop.

Timex · 10-25-2012, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loganmartin

That's about how mine looks. Was that rod still a go?

Check pic #3 on post #4 of this thread. Yes it still has at least 1/2 life left. Picked up a replacement anode rod at CW for future replacement.

loganmartin · 10-25-2012, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timex

Check pic #3 on post #4 of this thread. Yes it still has at least 1/2 life left. Picked up a replacement anode rod at CW for future replacement.

Gotcha. Thanks for the pics.

LM

Timex · 10-25-2012, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loganmartin

Yes, I could be in for a battle in the morning...I'll try not be a bull in a china shop.

For a couple of days prior to taking the rod out, I sprayed some penetrating lubricant around the threads, and that seemed to help.

loganmartin · 10-25-2012, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timex

For a couple of days prior to taking the rod out, I sprayed some penetrating lubricant around the threads, and that seemed to help.

WD-40 type lubricant?

Timex · 10-25-2012, 09:04 PM

Can't think of the exact name but it wasn't WD-40 but I don't see why that wouldn't work. Just be sure to wipe up any overspray good before taking the rod out.

loganmartin · 10-25-2012, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timex

Can't think of the exact name but it wasn't WD-40 but I don't see why that wouldn't work. Just be sure to wipe up any overspray good before taking the rod out.

I'll try it. The last thing I want to do is go twelve rounds with an anode rod.

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