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06-27-2018, 04:50 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OGUYSRULE
The bungee i bought from
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ace Hardware sells 12 pack of rivets
Personnally i think from my expierence you could do the job by doing the front roof first the loop part then feed the bungee through the back roof. you will need extra bungee probably 60" maybe more. I noticed when I lowered my roof and watched the bungee on the other side camper it just goes slack when closing. Surely this is the way the do it at the factory not precutting the bungee and having to stretch it. |
Thanks for the suggestion on threading the chord. And for once i guessed right, that's exactly what I ordered.
Not sure why folks are using rivets instead of SS screws. Is there a reason?
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06-27-2018, 09:07 PM
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#22
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World Traveler Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OYO
Thanks for the suggestion on threading the chord. And for once i guessed right, that's exactly what I ordered.
Not sure why folks are using rivets instead of SS screws. Is there a reason?
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We are replacing the rivets that are already on the Afram as it does not use SS screws unless you have a different Aframe this is for Rockwood units and I have done two different Aframes and it works well.
__________________
2014 A194HW
2004 Toyota 4runner V8 4WD
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08-03-2018, 04:10 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Lecanto, FL
Posts: 313
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I've viewed the video by Slim Potatohead and saw how he removed both of the mounting plates (front & back roof sections) by drilling out the rivets on both plates. He's working on an A Liner unit, I have a Flagstaff T21TBHW and the mounting plates on the rear roof section don't have rivets or ANY type of fasteners holding it on the roof section, not even from the underside. In fact, the ends of that plate appear to be filled with some sort of sealant. So my question is, does that mounting plate have to be / can be removed to be able to install that end of the bungee? Do you have to "dig out" the "sealant" and try to slip the bungee cord through. Could really use some insight from someone who has changed out their roof bungees on a Flagstaff or Rockwood.
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08-03-2018, 06:57 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ortep
I've viewed the video by Slim Potatohead and saw how he removed both of the mounting plates (front & back roof sections) by drilling out the rivets on both plates. He's working on an A Liner unit, I have a Flagstaff T21TBHW and the mounting plates on the rear roof section don't have rivets or ANY type of fasteners holding it on the roof section, not even from the underside. In fact, the ends of that plate appear to be filled with some sort of sealant. So my question is, does that mounting plate have to be / can be removed to be able to install that end of the bungee? Do you have to "dig out" the "sealant" and try to slip the bungee cord through. Could really use some insight from someone who has changed out their roof bungees on a Flagstaff or Rockwood.
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I popped the plates off and scraped off the sealant. It wasn't difficult.
Mine had rivets.
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08-06-2018, 09:24 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Lecanto, FL
Posts: 313
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OYO, where were the rivets located? I see the rivets on the front roof section plates, but don't find any rivets on the rear roof section plates. Did you use a putty knife to pry the rear roof plates off? I'll try to get a photo of my setup and attach to the thread.
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08-06-2018, 10:57 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ortep
OYO, where were the rivets located? I see the rivets on the front roof section plates, but don't find any rivets on the rear roof section plates. Did you use a putty knife to pry the rear roof plates off? I'll try to get a photo of my setup and attach to the thread.
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The second picture in post #16 is like ours. I used a utility knife to remove the OEM sealant.
RE the SS screws vs rivets: I just figured the bungie would break again and removing a screw is a lot easier than drilling a rivet and reriviting.
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08-06-2018, 01:35 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Lecanto, FL
Posts: 313
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OYO, here is the photo of my rear roof bungee attachment point, no rivets around.
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08-06-2018, 04:20 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ortep
OYO, here is the photo of my rear roof bungee attachment point, no rivets around.
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You're right about that. Suppose they glued it on?
I thought your T21 was the same as our Rockwood.
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08-09-2018, 05:14 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Lecanto, FL
Posts: 313
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Here's what I found. I was able to "dig" out the adhesive, pry the plate off the rear roof section and replace the bungee cord. Now I have to wait 24 hrs for the adhesive (Gorilla Glue) to "fully" cure before trying to fully open the roof. Will report on that trial later this weekend.
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08-09-2018, 07:16 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ortep
Here's what I found. I was able to "dig" out the adhesive, pry the plate off the rear roof section and replace the bungee cord. Now I have to wait 24 hrs for the adhesive (Gorilla Glue) to "fully" cure before trying to fully open the roof. Will report on that trial later this weekend.
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Not sure, but could that be a botched pop rivet job? Looks like the rivets are in upside down.
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08-10-2018, 09:23 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Lecanto, FL
Posts: 313
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I don't think so, they are very solid. Also, for the rivets to be upside down they would have to been installed before the metal edge (angle iron) was put on the roof panel. Tomorrow I test the bounding on the rear roof section when I go to open it up.
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08-18-2018, 11:33 PM
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#32
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Lockport NY
Posts: 52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommytraveler
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I'm considering ordering some of the nylon "Mountaineering Strap" used for that.
Not only would it protect the bungees from abrasion and UV exposure, it's a form of wind protection and puts a solid limit on the roof opening.
Way cheaper than seat belts too...
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08-19-2018, 05:31 AM
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#33
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Wu
I'm considering ordering some of the nylon "Mountaineering Strap" used for that.
Not only would it protect the bungees from abrasion and UV exposure, it's a form of wind protection and puts a solid limit on the roof opening.
Way cheaper than seat belts too...
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I am currently contemplating using tubular webbing as well, in my own redesign of 'ole guys redesign of the Chalet wind straps (the Chalet straps just leave too much "bulk" around the down position weather seal to my taste, and 'ole guys redesign is basically just a complete rebuild of the Chalet straps imo ymmv).
However instead of nylon (which apparently has lesser UV/abrasion resistance), am probably going with polyester webbing. See materials chart at: https://www.shockstrap.com/category/blog
__________________
Current TV: 2006 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax LBZ 4x4
Current RV: 2014 Rockwood A192HW A-Frame
Former RV's: 24' Pioneer travel trailer (w/EQ2 hitch), Northstar truck camper
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