Cool Cat A/C questions

[hawkeyez]

So the Cool Cat does a good job of reducing temps inside, but should it also reduce humidity inside? We have taken our 12DDST Flagstaff model to Iowa a couple times and it just doesnt seem to take humidity out. I would expect to see a stream of water almost when humidity is 80%+, but seldom see that. I asked the dealer and they say it is working fine. Any Ideas?

[D-mo]

oh those darn dealers .. everything is working fine ...
ahywho .... yes the coolcat should be removing humidity from your trailer .. much like a regular AC would. You will note that there are two small clear hoses coming out of the outside of the unit . On my trailer, which i keep perfectly level when setting up, i have noticed that the system does not drain properly unless unless i put the nose down, and the level out the unit with a few degrees towards the drivers side .. this promotes draining ...
Once it drains .. it will be working fine ... and both you and the coolcat will be happy campers ... \

d-mo

[hawkeyez]

Thanks, I will try that. I have seen the two hoses, but they were dry. Dealer also has a complete new seal kit for roof and sides coming to try and get it close to sealed. Big gaps right now that cant be helping either. Will probably get a small dehumidifer just to make sure it is less humid inside..

[thehamguy1]

There's also a drain in the floor of the vinyl pan the CoolCat sits in, so what doesn't go out the two hoses in the expanded metal grate on the side drips out the bottom of the trailer through the (well-caulked) drain. There's another drain just like it in the space where the fridge sits, so that any water that gets inside the plastic vents can drain out. I close off both of those with metal cover plates when I store the trailer for the winter, by the way, to keep mice out.

I live in Iowa and find that the humidity in the summers is quite nicely dealt with by the CoolCat. So I'd say don't fret as long as the unit does the cooling you need.

[Manypalms]

The a/c is way oversided. Not sure why. The problem is if you are just droppin the temperature 5-10 degrees from the outside temp., the unit runs a very short time to get there. It doesn't run long enough to remove subtantial humidity. Remember, the thermostat works on temp. not humidity. Lower it to 64 or so if it's in the low 80's and watch it begin to produce water. Very common here in Florida during the dry spring.

[Herk7769]

OK, here is what I do and it works for us.

I set the temperature on the thermostat to be 10 degrees lower than the outside air temperature. NEVER lower than 68.

This allows the unit to cycle, prevents coil freeze up, and keeps the camper comfortable. You won't be wearing a sweater inside, but 10 degrees feels great when you go inside.

Cycling is critical for water removal and proper cooling. If the coils are too cold the air flow will begin to drop and water that would have been deposited in the drip pan becomes frost on the coils. As frost gets thicker, air flow drops even more and the unit will eventually ice up, run constantly, and stop cooling.

When outside air is above 100, I set the air conditioner at 90 and take what I get.