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Old 10-28-2019, 07:25 PM   #41
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I had wasp build a mud nest on my fan shaft. Fan would not start and I could here the compressor trying to start. Put a long screwdriver in the cover slot against the fan blade and broke the fan free.
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:21 PM   #42
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What he said!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
NO! DON'T DO THAT![emoji32]
You may fry your electronics and converter.
You need to do some research on this or you'll damage your trailer.
You need a 30 Amp. Circuit.., not a 30 Amp adapter!
To run your A/C.
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Old 10-28-2019, 10:29 PM   #43
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I had a similar problem (I think) a year ago, you could hear the ac trying to run but no fan. On the roof I removed the housing over the ac unit and found the fan was really tight. In working it back and forth it seemed to just be locked with dirt and junk (we live in farm country so a lot of dust and dirt) and after some effort and some oil it spun freely and works great. An easy and cheap fix if that is your problem.
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Old 10-28-2019, 10:39 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Garywise View Post
I had wasp build a mud nest on my fan shaft. Fan would not start and I could here the compressor trying to start. Put a long screwdriver in the cover slot against the fan blade and broke the fan free.
I had same problem with mud daubers building nest on fan and had same symptoms you are describing. Pulled a/c cover, cleaned out mud and a/c worked fine.
Worth checking out before you go to a lot of trouble.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:07 AM   #45
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Does anyone happen to know where the fan shaft is located in the CoolCat?
I will try anything at this point.


I took off the access cover this weekend. All connections look secure.

I had a friend come over to test the connections with a multimeter. He’s not entirely confident with his testing methods, but he feels all circuits have power.

He mentioned that possibly the capacitor is the problem. ? Not sure how to test those.

Does anyone happen to know aHonest RV mechanic in the south Florida / Boca raton area ??

Thank you
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:46 AM   #46
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Also, can anyone tell me if there is a fuse located in this small black box?
i tried to circle it in Yellow
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:10 AM   #47
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Always good to use a 12 gauge extension cord, since the Cool Cat draws 38 amps surge when starting.
Just curious where you got this spec. If you get a 38 amp spike on start up, what's to keep it from popping a 30 amp circuit breaker, much less a 15 amp house breaker that many have also run on?
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:32 AM   #48
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Fan has to be in Auto ("Au") for the AC or heater to work correctly - any other fan setting does not cool or heat, but just runs the fan.
Wait a minute...not sure what model you have but it's been my experience with my CoolCat that with the fan set to ON, the fan runs all the time and the compressor or furnace kicks on as needed. We keep the fan on for ambient noise to keep the dogs from barking at outside sounds, and to keep the air circulated. The fan setting should not affect how the HEAT or COOL modes are set.
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:51 AM   #49
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Fan motor shot? It don't take much
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:13 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by bogotabro View Post
Wait a minute...not sure what model you have but it's been my experience with my CoolCat that with the fan set to ON, the fan runs all the time and the compressor or furnace kicks on as needed. We keep the fan on for ambient noise to keep the dogs from barking at outside sounds, and to keep the air circulated. The fan setting should not affect how the HEAT or COOL modes are set.

Just to clarify, I can not get the Fan to turn on at all in any setting.
It will not turn on when "Auto" "Hi" or "Low" is selected.
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Old 10-29-2019, 04:28 PM   #51
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AC

Good afternoon.
I learned the hard way that I need 30 amp to run my AC.
2015 19Qb highwall with heat exchanger.
I was just about one foot to far away for the 30 amp, tried to use a 12 guage cord to no avail.
I had to move my camper closer to use the 30 amp then it worked like a champ.
The ac made noises like it would work but not cool well at all.
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Old 10-29-2019, 05:34 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by bogotabro View Post
Just curious where you got this spec. If you get a 38 amp spike on start up, what's to keep it from popping a 30 amp circuit breaker, much less a 15 amp house breaker that many have also run on?

Surge shown on oscilloscope. Peak draw is 38 amps for the first 6 cycles (100 milliseconds), then it drops quickly to steady 13.8 amps at 200 ms.) Circuit breakers are designed to allow this type of short-term surge load.

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Old 10-29-2019, 05:45 PM   #53
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FYI:

As far as voltage drop, this is what I get with just the Cool Cat as a load on the system.

123 volts no load, 117 volts with C. Cat at startup. Taken inside the camper at the converter 20 amp breaker for the C. Cat. Only 5% drop. But 10% - which is considered the most you want to see - can easily happen with a less robust connection (Smaller cord, longer run, etc.)






This is with my 25 foot 30 amp RV cord connected to a dedicated outlet 6 inches below the main service entrance meter panel at my home with a 30 amp circuit breaker, so best possible connection, unlike many campground outlets that can be hundreds of feet of cable away from their main service connection.

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Old 10-29-2019, 05:59 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Cumpari1 View Post
Also, can anyone tell me if there is a fuse located in this small black box?
i tried to circle it in Yellow

That is the compressor starter control circuit. Also known as a PTCR.

It only effects the compressor. If the fan runs OK but the compressor won't start (The exact opposite of what you describe), it is the prime suspect.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:13 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Cumpari1 View Post
Does anyone happen to know where the fan shaft is located in the CoolCat?
I will try anything at this point.

Follow the black and the red wires from terminals Y8 and Y9 on the circuit board to the motor. Usually located right in the center of the unit with shafts coming out both the front and rear of the morot housing. They usually have a fan on each end. One for each of the coil assemblies. You will probably have to remove the black coroplast that covers the top of the C. Cat unit to see it.

This will also allow access to turn the fan blades by hand to see if they turn without any drag.



I took off the access cover this weekend. All connections look secure.

I had a friend come over to test the connections with a multimeter. He’s not entirely confident with his testing methods, but he feels all circuits have power.

He mentioned that possibly the capacitor is the problem. ? Not sure how to test those.

Either a meter that can test capacitance or subtituting a new capacitor. Probably available from Amazon in the area of 20 dollars.

Does anyone happen to know aHonest RV mechanic in the south Florida / Boca raton area ??

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Old 10-30-2019, 03:31 PM   #56
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Im sorry for my ignorance. How can I determine what capacitor my coolcat has? I looked on edometic.com and I am unable to find the part #.

Im thinking about replacing it either way if its only 40 bucks or so. But i dont know which one to buy
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Old 10-30-2019, 04:06 PM   #57
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Im sorry for my ignorance. How can I determine what capacitor my coolcat has? I looked on edometic.com and I am unable to find the part #.

Im thinking about replacing it either way if its only 40 bucks or so. But i dont know which one to buy

On the top of the capacitor is the model info. should be voltage (much higher than you'd think) and microfarrads, funny looking symbol I can't duplicate here.


often spinning the fan will get it moving and will indicate a bad cap.
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Old 10-30-2019, 05:22 PM   #58
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The data is on the body of the cap, and you will have to remove it to read the specifications.

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Old 10-31-2019, 12:13 AM   #59
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I would double check the wires that are crimped together on the outside of the cool cat unit, under the bed. A couple of years ago my fan wouldn't run either, just heard a single click. Found that one of the thermostat wires that had a crimp connection wasn't stripped all the way from the factory. I snipped off the crimp, twisted the wires together, and put a wire nut on it. Everything started working perfectly then.
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Old 10-31-2019, 12:18 AM   #60
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I would double check the wires that are crimped together on the outside of the cool cat unit, under the bed. A couple of years ago my fan wouldn't run either, just heard a single click. Found that one of the thermostat wires that had a crimp connection wasn't stripped all the way from the factory. I snipped off the crimp, twisted the wires together, and put a wire nut on it. Everything started working perfectly then.
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