Cracked skylight in Flagstaff hard side popup

[nwood]

We bought a 2019 Forest River Flagstaff hard side popup camper last September. When we went to pick it up we were informed there had been a leak around the large window/skylight in the back roof section that destroyed the cabinet between the beds and damaged one of the mattresses. Three months later we finally got a new mattress and cabinet, which we installed ourselves rather than wait for the dealer to do it. At some point we also found out the Wifi Sky Ranger, which had been installed just below the skylight, had also been destroyed by moisture. We called Wifi Ranger who told us we had to go through the dealer if we wanted it done under warranry, so we replaced that on our own as well. While preparing for a trip we just found more evidence of leakage and realized that the window was cracked at one edge. We took it to a shop and asked them to put in a flat sheet of tinted acrylic, as we thought maybe the skylight being rounded was causing it to flex and crack. We just got word from the shop that there was nothing but caulk securing the window. They are offering to write something up so we can put in a post repair warranty claim. Has anybody else had a similar problem with these skylights? If so, did you replace it with another Forest River skylight, or go with a flat sheet of tinted acrylic, as we are doing?

[Big Vic]

I see no advantage to bubble windows. Does anyone actually sit with his or her head in the window? I think a flat sheet is a good idea. I wish I had bought my A Frame without roof windows. My 3 bubbles have Reflectix installed and I keep the shades closed permanently.

As far as the best way to attach a flat sheet: I would use Dicor sealant and then cover the edges with Eternabond tape. I would not drill into the roof.

[quinnsapp]

Please let us know how the flat window turns out. I may do this also in the future.

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by Big Vic

I see no advantage to bubble windows. Does anyone actually sit with his or her head in the window?

I disagree. In the smaller A-frame, I needed the bubble windows to be able to sit comfortably at the dinette, and to be able to turn over when sleeping in the rear position. Without the bubble windows making the ends functional, we would have probably stayed with a PUP.

In our current high wall A-frame, the dormer replaces the front bubbles, and provides 76" headroom throughout the front section (plenty for me at 69", DW is less). And the dormer provides an opening front window that is above eye level for passers by. For these reasons the dormer is a great add. Although we don't need the rear bubble, we prefer it to a flat window for the extra wide angle view and the extra headroom at the rear of the camper.

just our experiences
Fred W
now 2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
prev 2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

[GreenImp]

I can't help with your bubble vs flat debate, but I suggest Lexan over acrylic. MUCH more durable. I got my skylight replacement from here... I went with white Lexan to block the vast majority of direct sunlight but still allow in a little extra light... LOVE it!



https://www.eztopsworldwide.com/

[Fast Ed]

Sorry to hear about your window problem but it sure brings back awful memories about my Flagstaff trailer. I started having water issues and recaulked everything I could find where water could intruded to no avail. Finally after 5 years the water started dripping into the shower from the skylight. I pulled off all the goo and found that every screw holding the skylight down had been torqued down so hard that all 24 or so screws had cracked the plastic. Once I replaced the skylight and found Eternabond all is dry. Of course the trailer is trash and I've decided to completely bypass Forrest River. Will probably bypass the RV life also and utilize the Armed Forces Vacation Club and Space A accommodations. Calculate what the cost of RV ownership is plus the ever increasing park costs are makes RVing a tad less speaking.

[Danhikeski]

Originally Posted by Fast Ed

Sorry to hear about your window problem but it sure brings back awful memories about my Flagstaff trailer. I started having water issues and recaulked everything I could find where water could intruded to no avail. Finally after 5 years the water started dripping into the shower from the skylight. I pulled off all the goo and found that every screw holding the skylight down had been torqued down so hard that all 24 or so screws had cracked the plastic. Once I replaced the skylight and found Eternabond all is dry. Of course the trailer is trash and I've decided to completely bypass Forrest River. Will probably bypass the RV life also and utilize the Armed Forces Vacation Club and Space A accommodations. Calculate what the cost of RV ownership is plus the ever increasing park costs are makes RVing a tad less speaking.

I wouldn’t discount forest river cause you failed to replace the sealant after, what did you say, 5 years? Don’t expect any sealant to last that long on a RV roof.

[swe13]

Being taller, the extra space of the bubble is nice.

[Servant]

Venturing into the RV world for the first time, I bought a "lightly used" 2018 A213HW in January, which has the big skylight. After the second trip out, I found that I had a significant leak from the skylight. Fortunately, the discovery was made at home and no major damage resulted, but I could not figure out where the water was coming in. It was dripping from the bottom of the frame for the shade. On my next trip, the rain started, and so did the leak. I removed the frame, only do discover that the water was coming in the upper corner of the skylight, which had separated from the adhesive, and was running down the inside of the frame. Without going into all the sordid details, lacking both resources and knowledge, duct tape got me through the week and I started reading.



Getting no response from an inquiry to FR, I tried re-gluing the thing with some Gorilla construction adhesive that was supposed to bond with anything, and sealed the entire edge with Dicor Lap Sealant. It looked good until it got really hot in the afternoon SC sun. The skylight warps in the heat. It broke loose from the new adhesive and stretched the Dicor to the point of separation. I concluded that mechanically securing it to the roof was the only option.


While inspecting the edges and prepping for the next round, I discovered that the edge of the skylight had also cracked, just like Nwood's, except it's in the middle of the top edge, rather than on the side.


For round three, I have put screws all the way around the skylight. Acknowledging Big Vic's comment about not drilling into the roof, I did so reluctantly, but didn't feel like I had a viable alternative. The roof has VERY little substance to hold the screws, so you can only lightly snug them up or you will just tear them right back out. I coated the screws with Dicor putting them in and resealed the entire edge and all the screw heads with Dicor. Then, to be sure, to be sure, I finished the edge with 4" Eternabond tape, with a little extra patch over the crack.


As I write this, I am holed up in the trailer, escaping repeated downpours, and the camper is dry. Hopefully, it will stay that way. Admittedly, with my repair job, the trailer doesn't look as elegant as it did coming from the factory. But in the end, dry and secure is what is important.

[rsdata]

Sounds like a job for Eternabond double-stick putty tape... no drilling required... then lap the outer-edge with regular Eternabond

[Servant]

I like the thought, but that would have required completely removing the skylight, which still had 3/4 of it's edge firmly attached. Posts in other threads suggest that this is not an easy task. What's more, with the edge already cracked, I figure the chance of my getting the whole thing off without destroying it, was close to nil. If I ultimately end up replacing it, I'm all in! Thanks for a good suggestion.

[JoArt]

We replaced our hairline cracked, leaking skylights last month. My husband did most the work. We replaced them with Lexan bronze skylights they are thicker and lighter in color than the Forest River type.

[Servant]

How did he fasten them to the roof, JoArt?

[JoArt]

The name of the product:

Dicor Product Lap Sealant Self-Leveling.
We purchased white # 501LSW.
We purchased it on Amazon for the quickest shipping for us.
Hope that helps.

[JoArt]

I forgot to mention the Sealant we used was what was suggested by the skylight folks.

[sbjenni]

Not sure if there's still any life in this thread, but I'd like to know where JoArt got the "lexan bronze skylights" that she mentioned are thicker than FR domes in her 8/8/22 post.

[nwood]

Our new skylight came from:
EZ Tops - RV Skylights Mfg
482 North Street
PMB 188
Calais, ME 04619
rvskylight@outlook.com

we ordered a Lexan skylight with bubble measuring 21-1/2" X 62-1/2" X 4" high. We had to pick the 1-3/4" flange to get the 25" X 66" outside dimension we wanted. we chose "tinted bronze" because it seemed to be the darkest color available at the time. It still looks good and no leaks. it seems pretty durable.
Write back if you want info on how we installed it. There are lots of good U-Tube videos on the subject also.
Norma and Burrell

[sbjenni]

Thanks nwood - very helpful! I read your earlier post about other problems with your Flagstaff Aframe and sympathize. I may have the same model - T12RB?. Anyway, my dome skylights are starting to get cloudy, which is just the latest in a long series of issues with features, materials and poor qc at the factory. But we still love the design and layout of the camper, and since we "store" it in our driveway I've adapted collapsible car windshield protectors to snap on over the skylights on the outside of the camper. This seems to have slowed the occlusion, but I'm sure I'll be replacing the skylights in another year or so.

[SuperLemonHaze]

... I'm in the process of ordering and replacing a skylight in my A128S, its a square one 25-3/4 with flange, bubble size 22 1/2. From various posts here the job seems straight forward. Ordered a polycarb lexan from EZtops on 7-28-23. will post more as this hopefully progress's. The sealant to use is my question. Choices so far are a 100% silicone type or a butyl type like Surebond sb-140. Or as RSDATA posted:,"sounds like a job for Eternabond double-stick putty tape... no drilling required... then lap the outer-edge with regular Eternabond" Pricey but if it works might be worth the cost. Any help,opinions would be appreciated.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by SuperLemonHaze

... I'm in the process of ordering and replacing a skylight in my A128S, its a square one 25-3/4 with flange, bubble size 22 1/2. From various posts here the job seems straight forward. Ordered a polycarb lexan from EZtops on 7-28-23. will post more as this hopefully progress's. The sealant to use is my question. Choices so far are a 100% silicone type or a butyl type like Surebond sb-140. Any help,opinions would be appreciated.

I used the 140 for my large skylight with excellent results. https://www.amazon.com/S-RECREATION-...a-843056894845