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Old 10-11-2012, 08:46 AM   #21
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You're welcome Handbuilder hope it helps. In answer to a question you asked regarding the rack with the addition of the new pictures you can see both racks are bolted to the section of the roof that folds down last, that's why its not visible in the camping photo. I'll be interested in a review of the fishing kayak should you decide to purchase it. Have a great day.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:09 PM   #22
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I have opted to remove the too large dinette table and am replacing with Coleman 4 in 1 tables, ordered from Amazon, but also on Walmart.com site. Comes as set of two and can be used separately or bound together, also have 3 height adjustments. All folds into a briefcase style to carry and total weight of 12#, waiting for delivery tomorrow.
Also am adapting my portable drill ( 3/4 in fitting/extension )to raise/lower camper supports quickly as bending over to crank is killing my back!
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:27 AM   #23
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I love my microwave and I love my toilet. I don't mind not having a grey water tank because worst case we just use a bucket. To make my portable hotel room even better I'd like:

- a better insulated floor (although throw rugs can help)
- definitely a 12v outlet
- a bigger fridge with separate freezer, better door latching and interior controls
- reposition the cd/radio so the kids don't bump it every time they come in and out
- exterior door light controlled from inside
- dimmable interior lighting
- standard screen door (Magic Mesh works too)
- wider rear storage door so I can store my grill in there

I think that's it. All in all I've been really pleased with my 2011 Rockwood A126. Sometimes it's hard to raise the roof but I'm short and that's what step stools are for.
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:28 AM   #24
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I almost forgot, a rear bike rack would be awesome!
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:46 AM   #25
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Radio with Bluetooth audio would be great, don't need CD player.
Different location for 110v outlets instead of bedside at the mattress (A122)
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:43 PM   #26
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I would like the stove and the sink switched. It's difficult not getting the bed damp when I do dishes.
Electric plugs on sides of cabinets where the bed is makes it impossible to get to them so moving them would be a must!
Pull out drawer under microwave. I love the microwave and would hate to loose it.
Agree with making the back storage area easier to get to.
A screen door would be a must too!
We got rid of the table that came with our camper for a little portable table. Works much better and is much lighter.
One of my biggest wishes would be that the sinks and cabinets were a bit taller. I'm 5"9' and standing to cook or do anything is impossible. Not sure how this would impact the price.
Even two foot longer would be great!
We are very happy with our camper though even without changes.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:16 PM   #27
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Dear Forest River,

What's up with the curtains? Could you have found a more depressing shade of brown?

Sincerely,

Abby
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:52 PM   #28
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I plan to put in a drawer under the micro in the spring, also relocate some of the 120v outlets to a more convenient location. Lastly, will prob add the two dinette skylights to mine since that was not an option when we bought ours.
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:55 PM   #29
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This weekend at Ruthrauff RV we saw a new 2013 A frame by Forest River and it has a drawer under the microwave...
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:41 PM   #30
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Our 2012 A122 has a drawer under the microwave.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:25 AM   #31
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Just bought my a122 yesterday and intend to take a trip to Florida within a couple weeks. SO EXCITED ! I will pick up the camper next week, just wish I was able to use the water in the winter, or am i missing something......even a trip to Florida in January will have to start out with no water in the camper, right ?

PS: I live on Cape Cod, Mass.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:54 AM   #32
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You can use the water once you get to Florida, then just re-drain the lines and winterize when you come back...

If you get a water pump by-pass, wnterizing process is pretty easy and quick. Maybe 5min. Ie. drain the HW tank, flip the HW tank bypass, hook up the water pump bypass, run antifreeze through the inside and outside lines (sink and shower) open the low point drains, and you're done.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:05 AM   #33
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You can use the water once you get to Florida, then just re-drain the lines and winterize when you come back...

If you get a water pump by-pass, wnterizing process is pretty easy and quick. Maybe 5min. Ie. drain the HW tank, flip the HW tank bypass, hook up the water pump bypass, run antifreeze through the inside and outside lines (sink and shower) open the low point drains, and you're done.
Thanks for the suggestion, will talk to my RV dealer about the water pump by pass.

We're going to sleep in the camper on the way down and back...will have all the water drained for the cold states, but, is it ok to run the heater ?
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:18 AM   #34
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Welcome to the Aframe club!

Run the heater on max temp for a few hours before you set out with all of the windows/vents open and the roof fan running on low. You want to burn off some oils and dust or it will set off the smoke alarm if you're all sealed up. But if you run it for a while, the problem is solved. After a few hours, close everything up and keep the furnace running for a couple more hours to make sure nothing alarms.

Honestly, you can probably get by without putting water in the camper if you don't want to muck with it. Just bring some 1gal jugs from your local store and refill them if need be. Then you don't have to worry about winterizing as you head back north and can learn the plumbing systems at a more-leisurely pace when spring comes. Water can be heated on the stove. You know --- roughing it! :P

Not saying the plumbing is hard, just that with a new camper there's a lot to absorb in a short amount of time, especially on your first trip. Taking the plumbing system off the list might just be some peace of mind. Then you won't worry about forgetting something and freezing the system when you come back north.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:31 AM   #35
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Welcome to the Aframe club!

Run the heater on max temp for a few hours before you set out with all of the windows/vents open and the roof fan running on low. You want to burn off some oils and dust or it will set off the smoke alarm if you're all sealed up. But if you run it for a while, the problem is solved. After a few hours, close everything up and keep the furnace running for a couple more hours to make sure nothing alarms.

Honestly, you can probably get by without putting water in the camper if you don't want to muck with it. Just bring some 1gal jugs from your local store and refill them if need be. Then you don't have to worry about winterizing as you head back north and can learn the plumbing systems at a more-leisurely pace when spring comes. Water can be heated on the stove. You know --- roughing it! :P

Not saying the plumbing is hard, just that with a new camper there's a lot to absorb in a short amount of time, especially on your first trip. Taking the plumbing system off the list might just be some peace of mind. Then you won't worry about forgetting something and freezing the system when you come back north.
Thanks for the welcome ThunderRoad ! Great tip on the heating system, will do that......can the heater be run with the camper closed up and towing ?


I was thinking of the lug a jug water solution for travel in the cold states, but, perhaps, when I get to florida, getting the camper water tank filled and hot water set up.........i mean, i could down there a month or two....but, I understand , i would have to drain the tank(s) before heading back into the cold states on my return. How difficult is draining / winterizing the water systems ? (26gal tank/hw tank)
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:42 AM   #36
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You won't run the heat while towing or while closed up.
If where you are going has fresh water hookup then you won't use your water tank at all. The water tank is only for when fresh water under pressure is not available.

If you do fill the water tank, draining is traightforward, there is a drain valve on the bottom under the camper, en it and leave it open as you travel to shake out the last little bit on the road.

Since it sounds like one of your first campers, I'd suggest recording your walk through of all the equipment with your dealer on a smartphone. There is a lot to take in.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:47 AM   #37
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Thanks for the welcome ThunderRoad ! Great tip on the heating system, will do that......can the heater be run with the camper closed up and towing ?


I was thinking of the lug a jug water solution for travel in the cold states, but, perhaps, when I get to florida, getting the camper water tank filled and hot water set up.........i mean, i could down there a month or two....but, I understand , i would have to drain the tank(s) before heading back into the cold states on my return. How difficult is draining / winterizing the water systems ? (26gal tank/hw tank)
I wouldn't run the propane system when towing, honestly. I actually turn the tanks off when moving. You can run the fridge on DC when towing to keep it cool.

I winterized with blown air. Drained the HW, bypassed it, and the blew air through the system with a $30 pancake compressor/tank from Harbor Freight with all the sink and shower valves opened. Opened the drain plugs, removed and emptied the filter canister as well.

The main tank has a ball valve you can open to drain the tank. It's 3/4" outside diameter, 1/2" inside, so it can take up to an hour to fully drain a full tank. I actually extended the drain to the side of the camper with some PVC and put a hose bib on the extension so I don't have to crawl underneath and could easily hook a hose up if I need to direct it somewhere.

Since you'll be there for a while, that changes things. However, depending where and how you are camping, if you have water hookups you don't even need to worry about filling the tank since the city water bypasses it.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:06 PM   #38
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Yes, first real rv, i'd towed many boats, and a small popup cross country with three students 30 years ago.....but, there was basically nothing in that popup cept beds and a stove (I think my salary back then wasn't very much )

My local dealer will go over everything with me , next week, when i pick it up. Also, the RV super center down the road, Major's RV in Bourne, Ma., is owned by a former student, always a good resource.

Not sure where I will be in Florida, gonna move around probably, since I don't have any reservations. So, not sure if i will have street water or not. I'd like to stay in the Florida state parks, cheaper than commercial campgrounds and, many have electric and water hookups...problem will be to find ones in the central and southern areas, where i will likely spend most of my time.

Draining the water seems easy enough, have a small compressor i could bring.

So, i guess its best on my way down, and back home, to shut off everything, with camper waterless. When i stop at nite to sleep , just turn on propane to run the heater(i assume its propane), and just basically sleep in the camper at walmarts or the truck stops that allow rv's to stay free.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:10 PM   #39
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One last thing, then. Make sure your trailer hookup is set up to recharge the battery when driving with the car. The furnace will drain the battery in one night, MAAAYYYBE two, if you aren't on shore power.

Unless you are hooking up to shore power, short of solar or a generator, then driving with the car will be the only way to recharge.

If you can, get your dealer to swap the stock battery for a group 31, which will hold more amp hours of power.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:24 PM   #40
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Oh yes, dealer told me yesterday that when there are no electical hookups , just run the truck for a bit to recharge the battery, but, i like the sound of the group 31 battery, will call the dealer about that right now !, thanks

ps, i have another rechargeable, 12v, battery that i used for trolling my 12' alumninum boat with a minn kota electric motor....maybe bring that along as a spare ?

might bring my boat along if it doesn't hit the camper. i put the boat, 100lbs, in the bed of my truck....tailgate down, bow of boat sticks out 4' past the end of the tailgate, might be a tad too long though ;(
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