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Old 09-12-2020, 05:48 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2019
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Front roof strut bracket tearing out

Heading out for 2 week trip in the am, loaded a214, lowered the roof & noticed the left front strut bracket is tearing out. I found the thread on stripped brackets but this looks like the strut didn’t retract all the way.

Any suggestions on fixing this? All y’all seem to know how to handle pretty much anything.
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Old 09-13-2020, 10:49 AM   #2
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If the force to tear out the mounting bracket screws is less than the force of the gas strut, the gas strut wins.

Rockwood/Flagstaff should know better than to use screws when mounting 40# struts (what my OEM struts were) on a thin fiberglass/foam/plywood sandwich. The screw threads literally have almost nothing to hold them, and the power tools used in assembly will easily strip the holes. Through bolting with backing plates or a real good adhesive are essential.

When I increased my gas struts to 60#, I knew from fiberglass boats that the mounts would not stand up to that amount of shear without reinforcement. So I used 1.5" long #10 stainless machine screws instead of the screws Flagstaff used. On the inside, I cut a 5" circle of real 1/4" plywood for a backing plate. Stained it, caulked the mount bracket, and remounted with acorn nuts and lock washers. The backing plate is actually behind the dinette seat back, so is never seen unless making the dinette into a bed.

On the starboard side, when I through drilled the screw holes, I went through the top of the hinge metal. So I used the hinge as a backing plate. Again, the nuts are hidden.

Since the mod, I have been watching the mounts to make sure they are not enlarging the holes or cracking the fiberglass. I would certainly not go to more than the 60# struts I am using.

just our experiences
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW (same as A213) A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time
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Old 09-14-2020, 10:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgandw View Post
If the force to tear out the mounting bracket screws is less than the force of the gas strut, the gas strut wins.

Rockwood/Flagstaff should know better than to use screws when mounting 40# struts (what my OEM struts were) on a thin fiberglass/foam/plywood sandwich. The screw threads literally have almost nothing to hold them, and the power tools used in assembly will easily strip the holes. Through bolting with backing plates or a real good adhesive are essential.

When I increased my gas struts to 60#, I knew from fiberglass boats that the mounts would not stand up to that amount of shear without reinforcement. So I used 1.5" long #10 stainless machine screws instead of the screws Flagstaff used. On the inside, I cut a 5" circle of real 1/4" plywood for a backing plate. Stained it, caulked the mount bracket, and remounted with acorn nuts and lock washers. The backing plate is actually behind the dinette seat back, so is never seen unless making the dinette into a bed.

On the starboard side, when I through drilled the screw holes, I went through the top of the hinge metal. So I used the hinge as a backing plate. Again, the nuts are hidden.

Since the mod, I have been watching the mounts to make sure they are not enlarging the holes or cracking the fiberglass. I would certainly not go to more than the 60# struts I am using.

just our experiences
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW (same as A213) A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time


Could you post pictures of how you mounted the ga struts? I am wanting you add them. Need advice on placement and how to mount? Did you go with 36”?
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Old 09-15-2020, 04:38 PM   #4
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Join Date: Jun 2018
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Smile I had the exact Issue, and a viable solution.

Try this link for the framework for my solution.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...se-207083.html

So I had both blow out on me on at the same time. I struggled with the plate to manufacture inside. I know I needed 1 1/2 screw/bolts, with spring washers and nuts, not acorn, so I could tighten as much or little as I wanted. Also did not want to reinvent the wheel on the plate, wood, metal electrical plate, etc.

My solution was to actually buy the same base that is on the outside, the one the struts attach to, and use those as the plates inside. Granted, there is a small ball appendage but the plates would line up perfectly and did. Removed the struts, used the outside plate to drill in the existing five holes for both right through the trailer wall. Put the outside plate back on, threaded the 5 bolts in, had my wife stay outside to hold the bolts in place, while I went in the camper, married the bolts with the exact piece bought from the manufacturer, and tightened the nut over the spring washers.

The Plate with ball is hidden by the mattress on one side, and a seat cushion by the other. (A122SESP)

Worked surprisingly well, and have had no issues since.

There is another thread, keyword ACTUATOR (5 pages worth) that details the manufacturer and the many types of plates and struts you can purchase, etc.

Simple, easy purchase, maybe about $4-5 each + shipping. Problem solved.

In fact, I think they are more secure now than the factory.

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