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Old 07-19-2018, 10:32 PM   #41
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We had an A212HW and loved it. Wintered twice in South East Arizona and the AC did fine camping in the sun until, like you, the temps were in the 90s. Lower your expectation and try to find shady campsites.
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Old 07-19-2018, 11:05 PM   #42
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The thing about recreational vehicles is they do not have anywhere near the mass of a house. The flywheel effect has a lot to do with keeping temperatures stable from heating or cooling too quickly. An RV will gain heat from all six sides and given most have poor insulation with little mass, they will warm quickly. Any refrigeration type air conditioner should produce close to 20 degrees cooling at the duct or more. If the air going into the return is not cooled at least 15 degrees out the discharge duct, there is likely a problem somewhere. Beyond an AC that is producing proper heat removal over the evaporator, if it is not cooling the space, it is simply under capacity and a larger unit capable of removing more BTU’s is needed. Nothing else will help much. An AC that does not have the capacity to remove the heat gained in an RV, it will never cool it. The RV will only become warmer and warmer because the AC cannot keep up with heat gain.
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:14 AM   #43
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Ok , tip from tech on Youtube and it works great and makes senses! Turn ac on as normal, now switch fan /blower from auto to manual and leave there. A/c compressor will trun on and off as normal, but blower will stay on ! That does two things. 1. when you compressor kicks off the coil are still cool so blower will still blow cool air. 2. This will keep your coils from freezing up! I have a Hybird with 2 bunk's, the bunk ends being canvas is like a oven in direct sun and found by doing the above rv stays much cooler. Just try it and see if it works for you!
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Old 07-20-2018, 09:00 AM   #44
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Make cardboard cutouts of all windows,,, and then staple Reflectix to the cardboard,,, make sure they will fit behind the shades,,, so they will protect the shades and you will not have to look @ the cardboard,,, I did paint the inside of the door pieces white !!! We have a Sunseeker 2500TS !!!

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Old 07-20-2018, 09:54 AM   #45
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Ok , tip from tech on Youtube and it works great and makes senses! Turn ac on as normal, now switch fan /blower from auto to manual and leave there. A/c compressor will trun on and off as normal, but blower will stay on ! That does two things. 1. when you compressor kicks off the coil are still cool so blower will still blow cool air. 2. This will keep your coils from freezing up! I have a Hybird with 2 bunk's, the bunk ends being canvas is like a oven in direct sun and found by doing the above rv stays much cooler. Just try it and see if it works for you!
It will also keep the air moving, so you don't get temperature stratification.
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:40 AM   #46
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Reflective Radiant Foil

It probably sounds a bit tacky, but it is a widely used trick in Texas and other Southwestern states. Reflective foil radiant barrier attic insulation (same stuff many folks use to block the sun from their car window dash) can be found at many WalMarts or you can purchase 10 foot by 30 foot rolls on Amazon for under 30 dollars. Cutting the bubble foil insulation to cover the inside of your windows, door(s) panes, even bathroom and other clear plastic skylights and ceiling exhaust fans can really allow the AC to cool down the trailer. We find that keeping a small fan going also helps move the air around the RV, which allows the AC to be a bit more efficient as well.

Good Luck!
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:56 AM   #47
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Wintered twice in South East Arizona and the AC did fine camping in the sun until, like you, the temps were in the 90s.

Lower your expectation and try to find shady campsites.
Unless in the mountains...not too many shady sites in Arizona!

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Old 07-20-2018, 11:14 AM   #48
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I have heard it said that using reflectix on the inside of the bubble windows will bring about their early demise due to the UV passing through the Lexan twice.
I use the 24" over the front and back like band-aids and it really helps. It is also very easy to make covers for the A panels.
We use a rotating 8" 110v fan to mix the air and are quite comfortable.

Keeping it cool in Texas!

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Old 07-20-2018, 11:31 AM   #49
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I have heard it said that using reflectix on the inside of the bubble windows will bring about their early demise due to the UV passing through the Lexan twice.
I use the 24" over the front and back like band-aids and it really helps. It is also very easy to make covers for the A panels.
We use a rotating 8" 110v fan to mix the air and are quite comfortable.

Keeping it cool in Texas!

I do know the glass gets very hot !!!
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:40 PM   #50
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I have used my trailer in Death Valley and the Air conditioner is just marginal for the size, I have a small fan that runs on power tools 18v batteries or can be plugged in and I use it at the base of the bed to direct the air to where I am and I do leave the top fan cracked open just a little. I also noticed that my refrigerator barely works also in that kind of heat and I have added a small dc fan on the upper vent to assist in air motion. I now have a small tarp that I plan to use as a shield on the sun side of the trailer to help reduce heat but you have to get creative on how to hang it on an A-frame trailer.
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:02 PM   #51
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Keeping our A-Frame cool

1.) Cover all the windows that face the sun and all skylights with aluminum reflective bubble wrap. We bought a huge roll 4' wide at Home Depot and cut it to fit each window and skylight. Cut it about 2" larger than the opening size as it will shrink a bit over time.
2.) Start your Cool-Cat A/C first thing in the morning and set it at 55 degrees
3.) Do all your cooking outside on hot days

Do these 3 things and I guarantee your Cool-Cat will freeze you out of your RV even on the hottest days. We live in Tucson, Arizona and I know this plan works well even on 100 degree days.
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:40 AM   #52
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1.) Cover all the windows that face the sun and all skylights with aluminum reflective bubble wrap. We bought a huge roll 4' wide at Home Depot and cut it to fit each window and skylight. Cut it about 2" larger than the opening size as it will shrink a bit over time.
2.) Start your Cool-Cat A/C first thing in the morning and set it at 55 degrees
3.) Do all your cooking outside on hot days

Do these 3 things and I guarantee your Cool-Cat will freeze you out of your RV even on the hottest days. We live in Tucson, Arizona and I know this plan works well even on 100 degree days.
I have been using Reflectix for over 3 years stapled to cardboard,,,
no skrinage !!!

Have you ever gone outside and touch the glass ???
Betche could fry eggs on it hey ???
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:48 AM   #53
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We use a fan to help circulate cool air in our Freedom Express here in HOT Texas. We often cook outside in our exterior kitchen. Our tinted windows help keep the heat out!
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:18 AM   #54
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Our A-liner was equipped with a 5000 btu AC and would not keep up when in full sun and temps were 90+. Upgraded to a 8000 btu (easy to do as it used a small window unit) and it would bring inside temp down to upper 70's.
We are talking about a very small space, inefficient thermally or not. A 10000 btu AC should freeze you out of there-a Rockwood owner with the Cold Cat system shared that with us. As previously mentioned, check you duct work, then check your air output temperature. Depending on duct work, your should see temps between 40 F and 50 F at the outlet.
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:38 AM   #55
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We carry a O2Cool rechargeable fan for the dog when we have no shower power !!!
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:08 AM   #56
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What about adding misters around the outside in extreme heat situations?
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:32 AM   #57
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What about adding misters around the outside in extreme heat situations?
I have to wonder what the CG would think of that ???
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:48 AM   #58
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I have to wonder what the CG would think of that ???
True, but most systems only use about 1/2 gal per nozzle per hour. Some less.
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Old 07-21-2018, 10:15 AM   #59
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True, but most systems only use about 1/2 gal per nozzle per hour. Some less.
Used to have misters & drippers on our patio plants in SOCAL years ago,,,
I hooked them to our sprinkler sys,,, so they ran every AM !!!

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Old 07-21-2018, 11:25 AM   #60
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I have been using Reflectix for over 3 years stapled to cardboard,,,
no skrinage !!!
The hot sun here in Yuma, AZ will fry that stuff over time...

Already had the heat ruin my new (and most expensive) hat in two weeks time!

And it wasn't even in the sun...but inside my 5'ver in a closet.

Matter of fact it is at the western store right now getting steamed and reshaped, although they are having trouble getting it to hold shape!



Of course, parked in storage it gets upwards of 135 degrees in there!

This Tuesday and Wednesday the temps here are supposed to top out at 119 degrees!

I'll be out of town (not with RV in tow), but I hate to think how hot it will be inside my 5'ver.
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