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Old 08-25-2012, 03:48 PM   #141
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Wow!!!! Sounds like an awesomely fantastic tour!!! I'm looking forward to the pics!!!
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:35 PM   #142
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Bear pics
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:52 PM   #143
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Wow.
Just Wow.

I've paid good money for books in which neither the writing nor the photos were as good as what you've given to us here.
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:27 PM   #144
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I just died a little bit
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:53 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon Don View Post
Wow.
Just Wow.

I've paid good money for books in which neither the writing nor the photos were as good as what you've given to us here.
Yukon Don - you've said it all.

Thank you Lee and Courtenay for sharing your vacation with us. You've expressed such passion in both your words and pictures! Wow (again).
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:46 PM   #146
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Hello from Jasper National Park in Alberta! Astute readers will note that this is the second time we've camped here, the first being about 7 weeks back. That's true, because we've changed our route home in order to get there faster, and going through Jasper to get to Calgary and thence into the States in western Montana seemed the fastest we could manage. A friend of ours back home whose cancer seemed to be in remission when we left home has had a relapse, so we want to get home to help out there.
Thanks for the kind words about this rather blabby blog. I figured folks'd be worn out on all that by now but maybe not. Anyway, I'll hit the highlights of what up to now has been a pretty good homeward trek.
In Ketchikan we visited a couple of parks dedicated to preservation of totem poles. One is called Totem Bight State Historical Park. It contains some 14 reproductions of totems, many of which were made as a CCC project in the 1930's to preserve the carving art. They were carved by native carvers as replacements for older totems, which only last about 70 years in that climate before rotting away. An explanatory trail guide tells a little of each totem's history and how to "read" them. It was more interesting to us to see totems standing in natural sites here than to see them in some museum. The other place we went was Saxman Totem Park, where we were lucky enough to see a totem being carved by an artist who had been making them since the age of 13. His father is a totem carver and he followed his father's artistic career. He now lives in New York but returns to the Saxman center in the summer to teach carving and to make totems on commission. We learned that totems can be worth upwards of $30,000 and more, so a life as a carver could be fulfilling.
We had camped at a USFS campground about 10 miles from the city center. It was a nice spot, right on Ward Lake (more of a pond, really) among the tall trees. It being a rainforest, everything was green and mossy. Beautiful to look at but all that humidity meant that nothing in the camper ever got dry.
Our last night there we planned to go to bed early in order to get up at 2:30 a.m. to check in at the ferry terminal by 3:30. Imagine our chagrin when we learned that a rock concert was scheduled to run from noon until 10 that day right there across the lake from us. We weren't in the mood for loud and inexpert music but we figured we'd just try to ignore it and see. About that time a crowd of people came into our campsite, walking by on both sides of the camper. I went out to see what was up and to let folks know that if they were there to watch the concert, we weren't having any of it. Turns out the crowd was three park rangers and several onlookers who had spotted a bear IN our campsite, down in the weeds at the edge of the pond. That did it. We talked to the rangers, got permission to move to the next campground up the road without extra fees, and we moved to Last Chance CG, another USFS CG. There we passed the night in a quiet slot and were out of there in 12 minutes the next morning.
The ferry to Prince Rupert passes through Dixon Entrance, a spot where the inside passage is open to the Gulf of Alaska. It's often rough there but we lucked out and had a smooth trip all the way. Alaska state ferries have lots of useful features, including free showers (even if you don't rent a stateroom). The meals were pretty good too, and reasonably priced. Each ferry had an espresso machine! Arriving in P.R. at 1 p.m., we stopped at the visitors center to get maps and headed west. Many miles of good road and beautiful sights later we stopped in Smithers, B.C. Overnighting in the municipal campground there, we left midmorning Monday and continued roughly east. Near the middle of the day we saw a mama bear and two cubs crossing the road. The mama bear went across right in front of us and the cubs after us. Thank goodness for good brakes.
Monday night was spent in a really grungy campground that had sounded OK in Milepost. Purden Lake Resort should be renamed Purgatory Lake of Last Resort. It wasn't as bad as the refugee camp in Dawson City, but almost. One would think that when charging $38 a night for partial hookups, they could clean the bathrooms once in a while. We were glad to get out of there. One compensation while there was a spectacular sunset, which Courty managed to capture and will upload when we find reliable wi-fi (many places restrict uploads, we're finding).
This morning we continued southeast along the Yellowhead Highway. Along the way we saw another bear crossing the road and later on, a fox. We stopped at a pullout with a trail leading to Rearguard Falls, which is the end of an epic 800 mile swim by Coho salmon back to their spawning grounds. If you decide to take the Yellowhead Hwy. to Prince Rupert and catch the ferry for Alaska there (and we think next time that's how we'll go), be sure to stop there if the salmon are running at that time and watch them valiantly struggle to leap the falls. You wonder how they can keep doing that. You know there had to be dozens of falls they've already leapt to get this far.
And now we're back at Whistler CG in Jasper National Park. There are huge crowds here, at least compared to the crowds when we were here last. Evidently this is everyone's last big expedition of the season. Whistler has some 700 campsites and I won't be surprised if it fills up tonight.
Mañana we'll make one last stop at the Bear's Paw Bakery in town, then head down the Icefields Parkway, through Banff National Park and the city of Banff itself, and finally on to Calgary for a night. That'll be some 246 miles.

Some new terminology invented on this trip:
APS. Others would call it swerving to avoid potholes on the Dempster and the Top of the World Highways, I prefer to call it Active Path Selection.
Differently Correct. I'm never wrong, but occasionally the world doesn't conform to my truth. In that case I may grudgingly admit that I'm "differently correct."
Differently Incorrect. When Courtenay's right.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:59 PM   #147
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Here are more bear pics as promised. The first two show the boardwalk and the deck overlooking the waterfall. The last one is an evening shot from our free forest service campsite in Wrangell. A little story about our last night there. This spot was about 13 miles from town off a dirt road and was quite isolated. No one but us camping there and no local traffic as it eventually dead-ended. Lee fell asleep and I was reading with the lights blazing and our curtains open when I heard the sound of a loud engine approaching. It was late and I can tell you it got my attention! I turned off the lights, grabbed my bear spray and woke Lee up. We had a few tense minutes as the engine sounds receded, came back and disappeared down the road. Probably the local make-out site as these campsites overlook the bay, a lovely and romantic spot. We've had this experience before, camping in a remote site that attracts local teens. You trade off the security of having others nearby for the beauty of solitude.
Courtenay
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:19 PM   #148
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Clan house at Totem Bight.

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Oops. didn't mean to catch the dog in the act.

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The carving shop at Saxman.

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Interior of a clan house.

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Creek Street, Ketchikan, a former red-light district.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:23 PM   #149
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Rocky in the car deck on the ferry Taku.

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About to exit the ferry at Prince Rupert.

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The only good thing at Purden Lake Resort.

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Rearguard Falls. There are salmon in there, trust me.

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A wider view of the falls.
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:54 PM   #150
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Oooh, that was a spectacular sunset photo. I'm glad that you posted a pic of Rocky's car deck hang out on the ferry. I wondered what that was like. So interesting!

Sorry if I missed the explanation, but is the "clan house" a meeting place for certain Alaskan tribes or families?

Deb
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:36 PM   #151
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As I understand it, it's a place where all or many members of a clan live when they're not out hunting, fishing, or gathering food. That meant mostly in the winter months they shared space in the clan house, some of which were huge. I'm not sure of the difference, if any, between a family and the clan. There may have been family clusters within a clan. Any First Nations experts? Please chime in on that for us.

We're in Montana this evening, about 65 miles south of Helena, where I15 meets I90. We may make it to Sheridan, WY, tomorrow. Google Maps says we're 1,170 miles from home tonight. Getting quite travel worn now. A bit worried about finding places to overnight this weekend, what with it being such a big camping holiday. We may have to occupy WalMart for the first time....
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:49 PM   #152
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It snowed in the Canadian Rockies Monday night.

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Any guesses what the swirl is or how it got there?

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I think these are the eroded stumps of volcanos.

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This is just an eroded stump.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:36 PM   #153
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Like the pictures you have taken and I can't wait to experience what you guys are having now. Hey I like the idea of staying overnight free in an empty parking lot, good luck getting a site.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:16 PM   #154
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Welcome back to the good ole USA. I imagine you two are quite road weary by now. Haha @ Mr "Eroded Stump"!

Ah, yes of course, a clan house is a residence for families (clans). Makes sense, especially for winter, that they'd keep warmer in numbers.

It's probably something you already thought of, but as an ex-campground owner/operator, my advice is to phone ahead to each potential campground for campsite availability. Might save you some aggravation, plus you'll know what you're getting into. After each long day, with the stress of trying to get home, the less problems the better. If you find a good spot with availability, you probably should hunker down Friday and Saturday to wait out the worst of it. Some of them will go home on Sunday, pushing check out time, but they'll all be clearing out Monday for school and work on Tuesday. Interstate traffic will be heavy and a little more precarious both days too.

btw, What did make those swirls in the mountains? Lava flow? The snow really enhances the effect!

Deb
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:59 PM   #155
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Why travel. Courtenay's note
After foolishly drinking an iced coffee yesterday afternoon--we feel guilty about using McDonalds wifi without a purchase--I found myself unable to sleep last night and began to think about what I get from a trip like this. Being pulled away from my daily routine and work life allows me to open up, to explore other ways of being, to listen to new voices. Edge places have always called me and a trip to the Yukon and Alaska constantly brought us into contact with edges: the edge of the mountains, the plains, the edge of the tundra, the arctic, the edge of the sea, of the land, the edge of my culture, the edge of the culture of First Nations people as they call themselves in Canada, or First People as I am occasionally seeing in the US. It is the generous spirit of communication from First Nations people first in Canada and later in Alaska that stands out. Maybe it comes from having time to slow down and listen, maybe something is brewing, but as we stopped at First Nation's cultural centers and heard stories and saw displays put together and presented by proud local people, a dialogue developed, a connection was made. We were not just another tourist couple, paying a fee and racing through. We were honored guests, graced with a story, offered an opportunity to connect. It wasn't about professional museum presentation--some centers obviously had more funds, more resources, others had a homemade feel--it was about a desire to share a piece of the story, their story, our joint story, in all its complicated aspects. There are fine museums and we visited many, but the experiences that stand out are not seeing beautiful artefacts accompanied by pithy academic explanations. They are the conversation with a young native woman who plans to go into social work to help first nations teens and young adults make the difficult transition to adulthood; the moving description of a talented weaver describing how her mother lost her culture when she was sent to school and her own attempts to recapture a piece of that culture through her work and her efforts to avoid alcohol addiction; the young Navajo guide who discovered he could converse with his Athabascan friends in central Alaska in his native language and felt himself drawn to stay and work there [Athabascans and Navajo trace their origins to a common root and their languages have many common words, they each call themselves the Dine or Dinae, meaning 'the people']; the Inuit artist who told of the shock of encountering heat and humidity when he attended school in the lower 48; the elder artist in Inuvik who shared the origin story of the mermaid doll she made; the totem carver who encompasses traditional carving and contemporary methods in his work, traveling between New York and Ketchikan. We were honored to meet all these people, to share a brief moment of true connection with them.

The other important moments came as we heard again and again of a change in the climate--too much rain, not enough rain, extreme snow, lack of snow--loss of habitats and the sudden decline of populations of land and sea creatures. You can't go to the far north with your ears and eyes open and not realize something is going on. In this land of so many fragile ecosystems something is afoot. I had a fascinating discussion with the archeologist in charge of programming for the Beringia Center in Whitehorse. He told me that he sees it from two perspectives. By training he sees the long view, changes in the earth's climate over eons. From that perspective the earth will be alright. It's gone through thousands of years of cataclysmic change, cooling, warming, cooling, warming. Animals and ecosystems come and go. But from the perspective of humanity, sudden cataclysmic changes will cause upheaval beyond what we can imagine, and the signs are pointing that way as changes come at an unprecedented rate. One final epiphany came as we watched those Chinook salmon leap over and over trying to get up Rearguard Falls after traveling 800 miles. This is a remarkable world and we ought to do everything we can to live on it with reverence and respect, to live with all things in harmony, to consider the true bottom line.

In a few days we arrive home to pick up our daily lives. Thanks for sharing this great experience with us. Courtenay
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Old 08-31-2012, 01:12 AM   #156
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Courtenay - while I am not a green tree hugging fanatic - your thoughts reflect a discussion my spouse and I had a couple months ago about how each of us must take care to take care of our environment. The is always a cause and effect of what someone does - we all live on the same planet, breathe the same air, drink the water and eat the foods that come from the earth....if we stopped taking care, our lives could definitely take a turn for the worse.

Thanls for your prospective!
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:52 AM   #157
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Well said, ladies.
Again, thanks Lee and Courtenay for sharing your travels with us all! Such an interesting and enlightening trip of a life time.

Welcome home,
Deb
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Old 08-31-2012, 12:38 PM   #158
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thehamguy1- I've read everyone of your postings and enjoyed the pictures. I've taken many notes. I've enjoyed your trip vicariously and now I hope to enjoy Alaska in reality. I'm planning a similar trip next year. You have paved the trail for me! Thank you for all the time you put into this.
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:09 PM   #159
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Prayers offered in Detroit for your friend with Cancer.

God Bless you all.
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:21 PM   #160
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Thanks to everyone for the support and the kind words. We are fortunate to have been able to make this trip and it seems a bit unreal to find we are just 2 or 3 days from home, depending on how hard we want to push ourselves. Tonight we're in Buffalo, WY, at Deer Park Campground, a delightful place so friendly and inviting that we may decide to back off a bit from the drive to get home and stay here through the weekend.
Last night we were also at a fine campground, Camp Three Forks at Three Forks, WY. As we drove along today looking for a place to stay we began to lament that we'd left that peaceful place. But Courty, bless her, stopped at a place where the wi is fi and did some searching online. There are 3 CGs in Buffalo but she liked the looks of this one so we called ahead to see if they had any openings. They did, in fact there are plenty of empty sites even yet this evening. it's hard to understand why; this place is great. Later this evening they have their nightly ice cream social--bring a bowl, a buck, and a spoon and dig in. There's even a hot tub! I may never get Court on the road again!
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