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Old 09-23-2015, 12:43 AM   #41
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I guess I've just been plain lucky all these years. Should probably pull the clean out on the home WH. Been in use over 13 years and never been serviced. Same is true of all my old trailers but they are someone else's problem now.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:05 AM   #42
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[QUOTE=DobeFanatic;991225]
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Originally Posted by kdot View Post
Randy and Diane, hey that's a neat idea! I have one of those cross-shaped tire irons; I bought it some years back because it gives me greater leverage when trying to loosen tight lug nuts.
Yep, that may well be the ticket but it'll need to be a "truck' lug nut wrench. They include the larger 1 and 1 1/16 inch socket ends.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:03 AM   #43
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Teflon Tape is a must !!!
We use only filtered soft water from home,,,
Anode Rod is two years old,,, and looks like new !!!
I always drain WH after every use !!!
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:20 AM   #44
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I guess my question is has anyone ever really needed to spray their anode rod with some sort of lubricant to get it out? I've only had to deal with one for about 5 years now but it's never been so tight that I can't turn it.
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:08 AM   #45
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Well my tire lug wrench does not fit the anode fitting. Hoping my son will have what it takes this coming weekend as this will be the first check of the rod since 2012 purchase. When I ran city water few weeks ago there was a problem with some white sediment in the faucet filter so suspect it is time for a change.
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:25 AM   #46
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Randy and Diane, hey that's a neat idea! I have one of those cross-shaped tire irons; I bought it some years back because it gives me greater leverage when trying to loosen tight lug nuts. I never thought to check and see if one of the nut sizes on it also fits the water heater anode. If it does, that would eliminate having to have the 1/2 inch drive wrench, extension, and socket on board. I'm definitely going to check that out. Thanks for the info!

Kdot
Bear in mind lug nuts are a full depth fastener, where anode rods are very shallow engagement in camparision. If you use a lug wrench be very careful to keep the wench "square" to the anode hex, otherwise you'll round it off severely.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:12 PM   #47
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When you get ready to "bust it loose",

that is, with the right socket, extension, and wrench, apply only enough torque to loosen it a little bit. Little by little, until it is freely loosening.

Clean up the threads, and when you're ready to install the new anode with a bit of teflon tape, start it by hand while pushing in on the bottom. The weight of the anode tends to cock the angle of the threads downward.

And, don't forget to flush out the tank.

Good luck!
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:29 PM   #48
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that is, with the right socket, extension, and wrench, apply only enough torque to loosen it a little bit. Little by little, until it is freely loosening.

Clean up the threads, and when you're ready to install the new anode with a bit of teflon tape, start it by hand while pushing in on the bottom. The weight of the anode tends to cock the angle of the threads downward.

And, don't forget to flush out the tank.

Good luck!
This is very true I always have a problem starting the thread and afraid of cross threading, so I try to do it by hand. Good point if you never pulled it before...
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:32 PM   #49
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Well my tire lug wrench does not fit the anode fitting. Hoping my son will have what it takes this coming weekend as this will be the first check of the rod since 2012 purchase. When I ran city water few weeks ago there was a problem with some white sediment in the faucet filter so suspect it is time for a change.
might not be time to change it but it sounds like it is time to flush it> Rods are cheap maybe 10.00 to 15.00 bucks. A water heater maybe 350.00.....
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:43 PM   #50
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My neighbor loaned the tools needed including a break away bar if needed, so will attempt this myself tomorrow. If I fail, son will bail me out on Saturday. All the tips are quite helpful. Don't have a tube to flush with but will get one and try that in a week or so if I can't rig something up in the mean time.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:48 PM   #51
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My neighbor loaned the tools needed including a break away bar if needed, so will attempt this myself tomorrow. If I fail, son will bail me out on Saturday. All the tips are quite helpful. Don't have a tube to flush with but will get one and try that in a week or so if I can't rig something up in the mean time.
Go to ace and get a piece of plex 3/4"x 18" long and have them crimp a 3/4" male brass connector to it, hook your garden hose to it and flush your heart out...
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:50 PM   #52
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I have older hose 3/4 inch with usual fitting, so will try that.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:00 PM   #53
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Not to hijack thread, but along the same line. This past weekend, while breaking camp, my buddy was helping out by draining water heater. While removing anode rod, everything was going smoothly until he pulled socket away from anode rod. The big nut/bolt on the end came off as normal, but underneath that was a threaded rod with the anode still firmly attached to water heater. A wth moment for sure. Yes, it was removed in the spring for draining, and reinstalled to keep out the critters. My question. Will jb weld be sufficient in strength to reattach long enough to replace?
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Old 09-24-2015, 05:21 AM   #54
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Not to hijack thread, but along the same line. This past weekend, while breaking camp, my buddy was helping out by draining water heater. While removing anode rod, everything was going smoothly until he pulled socket away from anode rod. The big nut/bolt on the end came off as normal, but underneath that was a threaded rod with the anode still firmly attached to water heater. A wth moment for sure. Yes, it was removed in the spring for draining, and reinstalled to keep out the critters. My question. Will jb weld be sufficient in strength to reattach long enough to replace?
You are saying that the nut separated from the rod and the rod is still in the tank? Or it broke off the nutted end? I would just not use one til you replaced it. If you can still install the nut only. You can buy them on Amazon or ebay, depending on when you going camping again JB weld will hold anything, I would make sure it's dry so you do not get on the threads or you will have a real problem. I'm pretty sure that is regular pipe thread you can also just buy a plug until you get a new rod. Was the rod eaten away? Where do you get your water from, well or city water?
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Old 09-24-2015, 06:16 AM   #55
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Don't you guys mean 1/2 drive ???


Don't think there is a need for an 1 and 1/2" drive anywhere on a MH ???
LOL !!!
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:00 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickrock View Post
that is, with the right socket, extension, and wrench, apply only enough torque to loosen it a little bit. Little by little, until it is freely loosening.

Clean up the threads, and when you're ready to install the new anode with a bit of teflon tape, start it by hand while pushing in on the bottom. The weight of the anode tends to cock the angle of the threads downward.

And, don't forget to flush out the tank.

Good luck!
X2 - Teflon tape and a good flushing.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:01 AM   #57
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You are saying that the nut separated from the rod and the rod is still in the tank? Or it broke off the nutted end? I would just not use one til you replaced it. If you can still install the nut only. You can buy them on Amazon or ebay, depending on when you going camping again JB weld will hold anything, I would make sure it's dry so you do not get on the threads or you will have a real problem. I'm pretty sure that is regular pipe thread you can also just buy a plug until you get a new rod. Was the rod eaten away? Where do you get your water from, well or city water?
Yeah, the nut seperated from the rod. It didn't break off thankfully. I can still thread the nut onto the rod no problem. I tried getting hold of it with vice grips, but it kept slipping. No good angle to get on it. I quit before I buggered the threads. I wasn't planning on using until repaired, but we are getting october temps in september, and every evening has been perfect nights for camping. My thought was that since I'm replacing the anode rod anyway it wouldn't matter if jb weld was on the threads. It was only to be used to get the old one out, or at least loose enough that I could remove with my fingers. I fill with city water before leaving usually.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:11 AM   #58
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This is very true I always have a problem starting the thread and afraid of cross threading, so I try to do it by hand. Good point if you never pulled it before...
Can't get my big paw under the gas burner,,,
So I packed my 1 & 1/6 socket about 1/2 full of paper towel,,,
Now I can use it and an extension to start plug !!!

I vote NO on the metric sys !!! HATE IT !!!
I guess it is because I am to freaking old to learn it !!!
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:21 AM   #59
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I guess I have to wonder what kind of tork some of us are using to replace the Anode Rod,,, sounds like some are treating it like a Lug Nut ???
Just snug using plumbers tape,,, and walk away,,, unless it leaks !!!
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:29 AM   #60
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Yeah, the nut seperated from the rod. It didn't break off thankfully. I can still thread the nut onto the rod no problem. I tried getting hold of it with vice grips, but it kept slipping. No good angle to get on it. I quit before I buggered the threads. I wasn't planning on using until repaired, but we are getting october temps in september, and every evening has been perfect nights for camping. My thought was that since I'm replacing the anode rod anyway it wouldn't matter if jb weld was on the threads. It was only to be used to get the old one out, or at least loose enough that I could remove with my fingers. I fill with city water before leaving usually.
DO NOT try to use JB Weld to attempt gluing it back together, get a drill motor and drill a 1/4" drill bit and drill a pilot hole in what is left of the CENTER of the anode. Continue increasing the drill bit size until you can get an EZ Out in it.
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