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Old 09-26-2015, 02:44 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Don't give the Canadians any idea's they came up with the square screw heads....
This thread is starting to come apart at the seams...

And don't get me started about dealing with two systems of measurement.
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Old 09-26-2015, 02:50 PM   #82
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Yes they have a colour ( not color) code and they are the BEST design for not slipping when you are driving them in.

You like to-may-toes and I like to-mah-toes"


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Old 09-26-2015, 09:00 PM   #83
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Never would have thought there could be so much input on changing out an anode rod!!
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:43 AM   #84
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Friend of mine sent his young daughter to get a screw driver....

She came back and asked.... Is it a + or a -

(Plus or a minus)



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Smart Girl !!!
I like the way the Square / Phillips works
They should outlaw the Minus one !!!
LOL !!!
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Old 09-27-2015, 05:56 PM   #85
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The suspense is over

My anode rod after 3 years and all the calcium deposits on the ground after a very good flush.
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Old 09-27-2015, 06:44 PM   #86
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My anode rod after 3 years and all the calcium deposits on the ground after a very good flush.

Same as mine after less than three


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Old 09-27-2015, 06:48 PM   #87
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Same as mine after less than three


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Ignorance is bliss. I won,t be waiting more than a year going forward. Already have a new rod ready for next year, and will drain the tank between trips !
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:24 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
Same as mine after less than three


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WOW guys,,, where are you getting your water ???

We had a Flagstaff TT for about 8 years,,, Anode never go to that point !!!
Maybe the filtered soft water we use helps ???
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:38 AM   #89
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Never would have thought there could be so much input on changing out an anode rod!!

X2
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:17 AM   #90
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It's pipe thread, is it not?

Teflon and snug.


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X2. The first time I pulled it last fall I had to use a 1-1/6 socket, extension and breaker bar. Now it's teflon and snug it up, comes off real easy now.
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:22 AM   #91
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X2. The first time I pulled it last fall I had to use a 1-1/6 socket, extension and breaker bar. Now it's teflon and snug it up, comes off real easy now.
Right On !!!
As I said it is not a lug nut,,, or a mower blade !!!
If it does not leak,,, it is plenty tight enough !!!
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:35 AM   #92
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Only used our new 2015 once last fall for a 4 day trip. Dealer winterized it for us when we got back (it was in for warrantee work). The side of the camper was soaked in calcium.
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:44 PM   #93
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Hate to revive an old thread, but...

This seems like the logical place to post. I am wondering if it is normal or necessary for the anode rod nut to be completely tightened flush with the outer edge of the drain hole. Mine shows about 1/4-inch of exposed threads and is very tight to the point that I think additional tightening would risk stripping the threads. Last time I tightened it to a seemingly reasonable amount, water leaked around the rod. It is thread-taped. I mentioned the leak to the dealer; I think they tinkered with it, and they claim the leak was fixed. However, it doesn't look like they did anything since my earlier attempts, and I have not filled and pressurized the tank since then.

If it makes any difference, both the rod nut and the drain hole threads are quite rusty and have been since "new" (2016 Flagstaff 12RBST obtained this year). The rod itself is fully intact and the heater has been used only to fill and test.

Thanks!
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Old 06-14-2016, 01:28 AM   #94
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The anode rod is National Pipe Thread and is tapered. So when you turn it, it is tightening in the bung like a wedge. You should have some threads exposed even after tightening. Use three full wraps of Teflon tape wrapping it counter clockwise. Tighten it enough so there's no leak. If you see a drip, go a little more.
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:32 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by 05CrewDually View Post
The anode rod is National Pipe Thread and is tapered. So when you turn it, it is tightening in the bung like a wedge. You should have some threads exposed even after tightening. Use three full wraps of Teflon tape wrapping it counter clockwise. Tighten it enough so there's no leak. If you see a drip, go a little more.
Thank you for the clarification!
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:37 PM   #96
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Installation instructions for the rod usually state "no more than 1 1/4 raps of Teflon tape. Idea is you must cut through enough tape to make good metal to metal contact. I usually check continuity with an omh meter after installation.
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Old 06-15-2016, 06:39 AM   #97
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Installation instructions for the rod usually state "no more than 1 1/4 raps of Teflon tape. Idea is you must cut through enough tape to make good metal to metal contact. I usually check continuity with an omh meter after installation.
Maybe that is why my Anode Rod is in such good shape,,, either to much Teflon tape ??? Or filtered soft water ???

Question for one of our plumbers,,,
Does it matter which way we rap out Teflon tape,,,
Clockwise or Counterclockwise ???

I vote NO !!!
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:08 AM   #98
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No. however, typically with all plumbing items where used it is installed clockwise when viewing threaded end (right hand threads). This assures the tape will not try to bunch up or unwind when item is screwed in.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:32 AM   #99
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No. however, typically with all plumbing items where used it is installed clockwise when viewing threaded end (right hand threads). This assures the tape will not try to bunch up or unwind when item is screwed in.
I have used many many roles of Teflon tape,,, and have never had one bunch up or unwind,,, maybe because I apply the tape very tightly ???
Thanks for your reply !!!
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:33 AM   #100
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Maybe that is why my Anode Rod is in such good shape,,, either to much Teflon tape ??? Or filtered soft water ???

Question for one of our plumbers,,,
Does it matter which way we rap out Teflon tape,,,
Clockwise or Counterclockwise ???

I vote NO !!!
Plumber here. You start the tape at the end of the thread that goes into the fitting and follow the direction of the thread as you wrap up towards the larger diameter of the NPT threads. It is hard to describe it as clockwise or counterclockwise because it all depends on which way you are looking at the threads.

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