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Old 06-15-2016, 07:43 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
Plumber here. You start the tape at the end of the thread that goes into the fitting and follow the direction of the thread as you wrap up towards the larger diameter of the NPT threads. It is hard to describe it as clockwise or counterclockwise because it all depends on which way you are looking at the threads.

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Maybe it also matters if you are right or left handed ???
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:51 AM   #102
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Maybe it also matters if you are right or left handed ???
You are so right. My customers have such a hard time working out which is the correct way to turn a valve for off and on. They always want to use the "lefty loosey, righty tighty" "rule." However, this all depends on whether you are looking at the top or the bottom of the handle, so, with a round handle, I tell them clockwise off and counterclockwise on. They still don't get it.

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Old 06-15-2016, 08:20 AM   #103
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You are so right. My customers have such a hard time working out which is the correct way to turn a valve for off and on. They always want to use the "lefty loosey, righty tighty" "rule." However, this all depends on whether you are looking at the top or the bottom of the handle, so, with a round handle, I tell them clockwise off and counterclockwise on. They still don't get it.

Bruce
True,,, but faucets can be very confusing,,, some turn one counterclockwise,,, some of them the hot & cold turn inward,,,
some can be hot on counterclockwise & the cold can be on clockwise !!!
I am so old I had to label the out side shower on which way is on & which is off !!! CRS !!! TGF duct tape !!!
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:36 AM   #104
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:28 AM   #105
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A little late to this party but I'll add my 2 cents...

I see no reason to empty the water heater after every trip. The anode rod is removed in the fall during winterizing to flush out the tank. It's inspected at that time and replaced if necessary. We had our last trailer for eight years and replaced it once.



I put Teflon tape on the threads and thread it in manually to start. As mentioned, the weight of the the rod tends to angle it down so I'm mindful of that when reinstalling. It gets snugged in firmly but is not cranked super tight. I've never had a problem removing it.
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:51 AM   #106
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True,,, but faucets can be very confusing,,, some turn one counterclockwise,,, some of them the hot & cold turn inward,,,
some can be hot on counterclockwise & the cold can be on clockwise !!!
I am so old I had to label the out side shower on which way is on & which is off !!! CRS !!! TGF duct tape !!!
I realize that with RVs you can't go by the standard with faucets, but here are the standards for how two-handle faucet handles should turn:

Round: Hot and cold both turn counterclockwise on and clockwise off.

Lever: Hot and cold turn opposite each other. Direction can vary.

Cross: Hot turns on counterclockwise, off clockwise. Cold turns on clockwise and off counterclockwise.

If only it were a perfect world.

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Old 06-15-2016, 09:58 AM   #107
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Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
I realize that with RVs you can't go by the standard with faucets, but here are the standards for how two-handle faucet handles should turn:

Round: Hot and cold both turn counterclockwise on and clockwise off.

Lever: Hot and cold turn opposite each other. Direction can vary.

Cross: Hot turns on counterclockwise, off clockwise. Cold turns on clockwise and off counterclockwise.

If only it were a perfect world.

Bruce
Great Info,,, but I would have to print it out,,, in order to remember it !!!
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:04 AM   #108
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A little late to this party but I'll add my 2 cents...

I see no reason to empty the water heater after every trip. The anode rod is removed in the fall during winterizing to flush out the tank. It's inspected at that time and replaced if necessary. We had our last trailer for eight years and replaced it once.



I put Teflon tape on the threads and thread it in manually to start. As mentioned, the weight of the the rod tends to angle it down so I'm mindful of that when reinstalling. It gets snugged in firmly but is not cranked super tight. I've never had a problem removing it.
I remove & empty WH after every trip,,, reinstall anode back in dry WH !!!
We had our last TT for about 8 years,,, and never replaced the anode rod !!
Anode was about 50% gone !!!
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:28 AM   #109
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Maybe that is why my Anode Rod is in such good shape,,, either to much Teflon tape ??? Or filtered soft water ???

Question for one of our plumbers,,,
Does it matter which way we rap out Teflon tape,,,
Clockwise or Counterclockwise ???

I vote NO !!!
Yes it matters as others explained.





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I have used many many roles of Teflon tape,,, and have never had one bunch up or unwind,,, maybe because I apply the tape very tightly ???
Thanks for your reply !!!
It hasn't bunched up on you because you're probably wrapping it correctly, counterclockwise.
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:50 AM   #110
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I remove & empty WH after every trip,,, reinstall anode back in dry WH !!!
We had our last TT for about 8 years,,, and never replaced the anode rod !!
Anode was about 50% gone !!!
Me, too.

My TT sits for a few weeks between uses and I don't want stale water sitting in the WH or the filter housing so I empty both of them. It flushes out the HW tank, too. The small volume of water sitting in the PEX pipes is minimal and flushed out when I use the TT the next time. What little is left in the HW tank is well diluted with fresh water.

EDIT: Think of it this way. Would you drink a glass of water that's been sitting out on the table for a month, or would you dump it and get a fresh glass?

Taking the anode rod out a few times during the season ensures it doesn't start to seize up and become difficult to remove plus you can check on it's condition. I want to know if its OK and if its actually working.
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Old 06-15-2016, 12:19 PM   #111
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To each his own, of course. Our anode rod has never been hard to remove in the fall and it degrades so little during the season that I have no worries about whether it needs replacement mid-year.

And since (a) we don't drink the hot water (or any of the tank water, for that matter) and (b) the sediment in the tank tends to stay at the bottom, I see no reason to change my procedures.

But, I repeat... to each his (or her) own!
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Old 06-15-2016, 02:48 PM   #112
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A little late to this party but I'll add my 2 cents...

I see no reason to empty the water heater after every trip. The anode rod is removed in the fall during winterizing to flush out the tank. It's inspected at that time and replaced if necessary. We had our last trailer for eight years and replaced it once.



I put Teflon tape on the threads and thread it in manually to start. As mentioned, the weight of the the rod tends to angle it down so I'm mindful of that when reinstalling. It gets snugged in firmly but is not cranked super tight. I've never had a problem removing it.
This is also my process/thinking. I don't ever remember drinking water out of my water heater. Grandmother England said a person should NEVER drink water from a house WH... said the heater had fiberglass insulation in it. I asked "IN it?" (crickets)
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:28 PM   #113
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We do drink the water that comes out of the WH although it gets boiled in the kettle for tea and boiled for potatoes. If you use it for showering you likely ingest a bit in the shower.

I worked for 25 years in the municipal water supply industry so I guess I'm more cautious than most.
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Old 06-16-2016, 03:17 AM   #114
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I just put a couple of wraps around the thread and it will bunch up at the end a little. I check mine once a year and in 4 years there has been very little deterioration. It lets me confirm it's working. Then blow out the crud in the tank. Reinstall and ready to go. I don't think I have ever checked my W/H at home. If you read about the two different materials that they are made for and buy the right one they should last a pretty long time. The hard part is not breaking it loose to me, it's reinstalling it so I don't cross thread it. I see no use in draining the tank after each use. I just let the water drain out through the faucet and let it refill with new clean water. I keep an extra one and an electric element in my tool box. I'm more concern with the electrical element then the rod....
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:52 AM   #115
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Yes it matters as others explained.







It hasn't bunched up on you because you're probably wrapping it correctly, counterclockwise.
Any thing is possible !!! I am right handed !!!
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:58 AM   #116
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I just put a couple of wraps around the thread and it will bunch up at the end a little. I check mine once a year and in 4 years there has been very little deterioration. It lets me confirm it's working. Then blow out the crud in the tank. Reinstall and ready to go. I don't think I have ever checked my W/H at home. If you read about the two different materials that they are made for and buy the right one they should last a pretty long time. The hard part is not breaking it loose to me, it's reinstalling it so I don't cross thread it. I see no use in draining the tank after each use. I just let the water drain out through the faucet and let it refill with new clean water. I keep an extra one and an electric element in my tool box. I'm more concern with the electrical element then the rod....
I would drain my home WH every year or so if it were not in the basement !!!
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:29 PM   #117
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wd-40 and an impact gun. I put Teflon on mine and use a breaker bar. You don't have to actually get it crazy tight. I take mine out to drain the tank after every trip, new Teflon and loosly screw it in until I'm ready to use it.
My unit is fairly new about 1 1/2 years and I was at my anode that has never been removed, but I noticed it is very rusty and it looks like they have Teflon on the threads so I should be able to get it out with a breaker bar. Is everyone Else's fully rusted also?
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:34 PM   #118
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They all rust on the outside. Yes you should be able to get it out using a 1 1/6 socket and bresker bar. The ones I have replaced call for 7 foot pounds of torgue when installing. No need to over tighten.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:02 AM   #119
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It should be 1 1/16th inch socket not 1 1/6th.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:18 AM   #120
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Installation instructions for the rod usually state "no more than 1 1/4 raps of Teflon tape. Idea is you must cut through enough tape to make good metal to metal contact. I usually check continuity with an omh meter after installation.
I have not been using Teflon tape for many years. I use pipe dope with Teflon. Never had a leak, wherever I used it.
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