New to Flagstaff and this forum but not to A-campers
Hello everyone!
My wife, dog and I have had an ALiner for about 5-6 years. Actually, the dog owns the campers he just lets us trailer it and set them up...
This week we decided to see if the 2016 T21DMHW at the local RV dealer might get cheaper during the "snow-apocalypse" and it did!
So we now have a new camper. We still have the 2003 ALiner which I suspect we will have until spring or later.
Lots of mods in the works:
1. We removed the silly shower walls.
2. Setting up a cell signal boost system
3. trying to figure out the best way to disable the outdoor speaker which when I fade it also fades the bed speaker.
4. Putting hose-adapters on the grey water outlets
5. Trying to figure out how I am going to dim the retina-burning internal LED lights
6. Trying to determine if the "solar ready" sticker means anything other than there is a sticker on my camper (oops dog's camper sorry).
7. How the heat pump behaves in cold weather (behavior does not seem to match what the manual says). I am not referring to the thermostat (that is pretty cool, pun intended, BTW). But defrosting and efficiency below 30-40F.
8. Should I buy a spare electric lift (actuator)? I have a so so back and my wife has had shoulder surgery. One of the reasons we are moving to the Flagstaff from the ALiner. It seems from what I have read here having a spare might be in order.
9. Sealing up the bottom. There is already some mild surface rust on the undercarriage. I have already replaced a floor in an ALiner and I NEVER want to do that again.
10. Also, trying to work out anything I will need for year-around use. We camp all year during the new moon weekend. No, we are not afraid of werewolves, I am an amateur astronomer and you can't take good pictures with a moon out. So under 30F camping happens at least 4-5 times a year. Also, some motorcycle events when it is blazing hot (these events typically require the use of a generator during the day).
I have been lurking on the forum reading the troubleshooting threads and I would like to thank everyone here that jumps in and helps out the community.
My radio was wired improperly to my indoor and outdoor speakers by the factory. The balance and fade controls were reversed. It was fairly easy to get access to the back of the radio and modify the wiring to speakers. While I was at it, I also added a second outdoor speaker to get stereo outside.
"Solar ready" just means there is a connector plug to the battery.
In my experience, forget about using the heat pump if outside temp under 40-45 deg F.
__________________
2015 Rockwood A128S
2010 Rockwood 2604
2014 Ford F-250 CC SB 2WD
2008 Toyota Sequoia 2WD
My radio was wired improperly to my indoor and outdoor speakers by the factory. The balance and fade controls were reversed. It was fairly easy to get access to the back of the radio and modify the wiring to speakers. While I was at it, I also added a second outdoor speaker to get stereo outside.
"Solar ready" just means there is a connector plug to the battery.
In my experience, forget about using the heat pump if outside temp under 40-45 deg F.
Thank you!
Where is that "solar" connector plug located? I did not see anything on cursory inspection.
If you do not see a plug on the exterior, it might just be a wiring kit that you can attach to the battery providing a plug to connect to a solar controller and panel.
__________________
2015 Rockwood A128S
2010 Rockwood 2604
2014 Ford F-250 CC SB 2WD
2008 Toyota Sequoia 2WD
is the UltraFab 3502, which has worked fine for going on 6 years.
Keep it covered from rain and lube the worm gear at the grease fitting.
The OP is asking about a lift apparatus for the roof of an A-frame trailer.
The UF 3502 is an electric tongue jack.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
3. You can turn the outdoor speaker all the way down so that it is not ever heard by using either fade or balance to get it off. Then just switch to the other in order to balance out the two indoor speakers and you are good to go.
5. Those lights are really bright, huh? Just today I saw a link to these replacements . . . https://www.walmart.com/ip/RV-LED-Ce...0K-1/820215343
6. My Zamp plug is near the bottom of the front panel, kinda behind the battery. It is nothing but two (too small) wires to the battery that are opposite polarity from most of what is on the market.
7. Heat pump is worthless below 40. When that cold, with hookups I use a $25 ceramic 1500 watt heater. Without, we use the furnace.
8. In the first year of our 2018 T21TBHW, our actuator went out 1500 miles from home and we operated it manually until replaced. Since replacement, we've had no issues.
9. I've heard that nothing should be applied to the underside of the floor.
10. Reflectix coverings for the windows helps when the hot summer sun is beating down on your rig.
Happy Camping!
My 192RBS came from the factory with a Coroplast belly pan and expanding foam filling the cavity between the floor and the pan. I do not like that the foam would have to be removed to access/inspect wiring and plumbing that runs through the frame.
Detail of where hoses go into the belly pan:
If I were to insulate my T12RBST floor, I would use rigid foam panels across the bottom of the frame.
3. You can turn the outdoor speaker all the way down so that it is not ever heard by using either fade or balance to get it off. Then just switch to the other in order to balance out the two indoor speakers and you are good to go.
5. Those lights are really bright, huh? Just today I saw a link to these replacements . . . https://www.walmart.com/ip/RV-LED-Ce...0K-1/820215343.......
Thank you Cowboy!
a couple of notes on 3 and 5.
3. Nope. My outside is on the same back (fade) as the bed speaker and same side (balance) as the shower speaker. I can not get rid of the outside speaker without loosing an inside one.
5. My lights are oval, not sure if that would be a direct replacement but maybe I could rip the guts out and use that?
I have attached photos of the much-too-bright LED fixtures in the camper. If anyone knows the bulb numbers let me know.
The covers are very tight, I think I might have to try to do some careful prying to get one off.
I found the "solar port" where you said it would be. My dreams of the camper having more smarts built in than just wires to the battery are dashed but I figured that would be the case anyway.
I think I will try a separate thread about the roof actuator.
I think you will find the LED fixtures are a group of hard-wired LEDs on circuit boards along with the current regulation electronics. Your photo looks exactly like the 2 installed in my 2014 A122 and the 4 installed in my 2019 A213HW. There are no replaceable "bulbs" - you will have to replace the entire fixture.
Some LED electronics will accept a dimmer input, some will not. Somehow I doubt the FR OEM LED fixtures will accept a dimmer. Note you will need a 12V dimmer that can handle 10-15V inputs, which will not be as cheap and easy to find as household LED dimmers (assumes you want to install a dimmer).
There seems to be an arms race in LED brightness - it's harder to find non-super-bright LEDs. I had to carefully search the Amazon listings to avoid overly bright LED bulbs when I replaced all the tail and clearance bulbs on my 2014 A-frame. Same for the porch and tongue light. Even when I got the less-bright LEDs, they ended up brighter than the incandescent bulbs they replaced, but they weren't unbearably bright. One good thing - I can now check if my clearance lights from the car are on during the day from the driver's seat. I had a problem with the 7 pin plug wiggling loose while driving.
just my experiences
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
before 2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time
I just sit one on the microwave cabinet top pointing up at the ceiling and the reflected light is usually enough for general needs. Simple, cheap, and effective.
RE: The ZAMP solar connector. Probably only useful to connect a small (15-20 watts) maintainer panel for use when storing the camper. Other owners have stated that the wire gauge is quite small, and not fit for a larger panel's output.
Make sure the under side is completely sealed. FR did a poor job on our unit and mice got in. Check all FR seals and fill any small openings. I used black 100% silicone caulk. Use a bright flash light to look it over, it took me about 3 hours. No more mice.
New to Flagstaff and this forum but not to A-campers
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