RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-04-2011, 04:53 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
Tongue Weights: A122, A126, A128 A-Frames

Just curious if anyone out there with one of these new A Series hard side Rockwoods has checked their tongue weight.

If I had a truck with higher rating (or a 4 door Jeep instead of a 2 door) I wouldn't have so much of a worry but I'm curious about how mine compares to others.

I weighed today and came up with about 300 - 320 pounds (estimating the amount over 300 since my scale topped out there).

I have the following: A full load of propane, battery, empty fresh water tank, and full Cassette Toilet Flush Tank and the equipment I have (A126 with standard features plus 20K BTU furnace, CO2/LP detector to get to that weight.

I tried removing the propane tanks and came up with 281#s.

Adding weight at the rear bumper reduces tongue weight at a 3 to 1 ration (add 3 pounds, takes 1 pound out of the tongue weight) so I figure it will be 5 to 1 at the best with cargo placed inside either in rear storage or behind the axle / on bed in back (estimating every 5 pounds of rear cargo averaging a reduction of 1 pound on the tongue weight).

I'm considering the following:

Moving LP tanks (securely shut off) into the rear of the camper during transit. This takes the my tongue weight down to about 260 or 275. Adding the additional weight of other items going along for the journey should also help get me to a more reasonable tongue weight for my TV.

My Jeep towed the A126 fine as it was delivered (at least 310 lbs tongue weight) but it was a little light on the front end (couldn't feel it, but you could visually see the smaller contact patch on the front tires of the Jeep). The trailer brakes make all the difference in handling when braking.

Anyone out there able offer any other advice?

I'm aware that I have to watch the loading of weight in the back of the camper. I'll be focusing on keeping the trailer weight to tongue weight ratio correct (10 - 15% of total trailer weight should = tongue weight).

Thanks!
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2011, 11:15 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ottawa Ontario Canada
Posts: 930
in your case perhaps a wieght distributing hitch may be in order. You definately do not want the nose of your jeep light ... as it has a short wheel base, and could cause some real issues with emergency stops or driving over poor roads. The frame is beefie enough on the trailer, but im not sure about your vehicle, as my mechanic stated just the other day that some jeeps are now uni-body constructed.

d-mo
__________________
2008 Nissan Frontier 4x4
2011 Rockwood A122
D-mo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2011, 02:53 PM   #3
daydreaming about camping
 
jeeplj8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KC area
Posts: 1,402
Being a Jeep enthusiast (and planning to tow our HW27 with a heavily modified CJ-8) I see your problems.

So long as you keep it balanced, and you gave the magic number for % tongue weight, I think your ideas will work.

A weight distributing hitch, though they are a real pain to set-up, would be magic for your combo.

Another idea - do you plan any off-road adventures in your Jeep? Put a winch on the front. Harbor Freight actually sells some very inexpensive but still dependable winches. They are HEAVY. It will weigh down the front of your rig.

And the last idea - a toad. Proabably overkill. Defenitley overkill dpending on the year of your Wrangler (which is not uni-body, silly non-Jeep people.) Toad's are basically a small wheeled unit you hook the trailer to and then to your rig, they have almost no tongue weight, but can be slightly squirelly if you don't pay attention trying to back up.
__________________

2013 Coachmen Freedom Express 320BHDS pulled by a 2005 F250 King Ranch CC

A rainy day camping is better than a sunny day at work.
jeeplj8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2011, 05:48 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
Thanks for the replies. The Wrangler JK is still a body on frame vehicle with solid axles as jeeplj8 points out.

I have considered a WDH and am researching and learning more and more daily. I'll look into the toad as well.

I gave some practice stops while out over the weekend. Granted they werent crazy true emergency practice stops. The trailer seemed to almost help the jeep stop under heavier stopping.

More time with the setup will help me get a better feel for potential add ons. I don't plan on offloading anything hard core but I have thought of the winch option as a way to get extra weight on the front axle.

Sometimes I wish I opted for the 4 door Jeep, but it's just not something I could make myself like.
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2011, 06:51 PM   #5
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,280
I would think something like this should work just fine: Pro Series RB2 Round Bar Weight Distribution Kit with Shank, 600 lbs TW / 10,000 lbs GTW Pro Series Weight Distribution 49568

Jeep Wranglers have the back bumper very close to the rear axles, much more so than most vehicles. That geometry should try to lift the front end much less. But with a short wheelbased vehicle like the Jeep 2 door, you really want to get weight back on the front end even with a small trailer like an A Series or tent camper.

BTW, I used to tow a 1000 lb. tent camper with my 98 Wrangler, and I felt that was all that I wanted back there....but there again, I only have the 4 banger.
__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2011, 10:00 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
I'm looking at the Reese 400 single bar wd hitch. Any other recommendations? I have a better understanding of the wd hitch after some additional reading tonight.
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2011, 07:16 AM   #7
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep4Two View Post
I'm looking at the Reese 400 single bar wd hitch. Any other recommendations? I have a better understanding of the wd hitch after some additional reading tonight.
The 400 lb. single bar should work, if you keep the tongue weight down around 300 lbs. Before posting the link that I did, I looked at the single bar WDH, but since you stated that your tongue weight may be over 300 lbs. because of the scale you are using, then thought maybe the 200 to 600 lb. system might be a better fit. The 400 lb. system should work fine, and would not put as much stress on your trailer or hitch.
__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2011, 08:12 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
That's exactly the thing I'm struggling with in my mind.

As I understand WD Hitches they are basically using the receiver part of the hitch on the TV as a fulcrum to create lift on the vehicle frame thereby redistributing the excess weight to the front axle of the TV and the axle of the trailer (reducing the weight on the TV's rear axle).

This shifting of weight has to happen by applying force somewhere and after extensive reading that seems to be at the vehicle receiver portion of the hitch.

Are there concerns with those dynamic forces at that connection point? I would imagine with the correct size and setup that there are not any worries.

I also think I agree about going with the heavier dual bar unit, for a couple reasons. Like you said you won't end up at the limits of the WD hitch unit as easily and those also have a lower cost for the round bar unit. There is a trunnion bar unit that's marginally more money in the Pro series as well.

I also checked the Jeep website and according to their build specs the hitch included in the factory tow package (that I have) is a Class V hitch. Seems like overkill for a vehicle that is only rated to tow 2000lbs (or 3500lbs in the 4door).

Bottom line is that I would not likely to ever exceed a tongue weight of more than 400 pounds. We will probably load the trailer as light as possible and also add some cargo to the Jeep's rear cargo area. I shouldn't need to shift more than 200-300 pounds so stresses shouldn't be too great in the hitch area.

I had to read last night for quite some time to gain an understanding of the physics involved in the WD hitch setup. That's just how I am. I have to know how it works
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2011, 08:22 AM   #9
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep4Two View Post
I also checked the Jeep website and according to their build specs the hitch included in the factory tow package (that I have) is a Class V hitch. Seems like overkill for a vehicle that is only rated to tow 2000lbs (or 3500lbs in the 4door).
I checked out 4 dr. Wranglers several years ago, and at that time the factory hitch was a Class II hitch. A class V hitch is a heavy duty model......even my F150 is only rated as a Class III/IV.

A Class II hitch usually comes with an 1 1/4" receiver....those hitches are made for carrying a bike rack, or maybe a single ware runner on a trailer. Jeep decided to put a 2" receiver to make the Jeep a little more versatile. Thinking back now, I am not even sure that they are rated for a WDH. There should be a sticker on your hitch something like "3500 maximum tow rating, 350 lb. maximum tongue weight". If it doesn't say anything about weight distributing figures, then you might need to call Jeep and see what their ideas on that are. Also, check out the owners manual.
__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2011, 09:15 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
The Owners Manual recommends using WDH for 'heavier loads' but mentions no specific numbers, so at the weight I'm at I'm in that category.

I'll look at the hitch tonight. I expect it's a Class III hitch (as I know it is a 2" Receiver). I'll be interested to see what might be stamped on it.

Thanks again for all the tips and suggestions!
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2011, 10:21 AM   #11
daydreaming about camping
 
jeeplj8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KC area
Posts: 1,402
I know plenty of guys who have towed 3500 lb trailers with TJ Jeeps, your JK is actually a bit heavier. I have not looked at the factory hitch mount on the JK - but assume it frame bolted. That is by far not your weak link. I could pick up a TJ from the receiver point with a crane.

The WD hitch will balnce you out much better and you will be happy with it.

Another alternative is some heavier rear springs (with an accomodating front lift to keep ride height level.) You could look for a product from JKS called ACOS (adjustable coil spacers) that you can dial in your highet adjustment.

Though in reality the WD hitch is the easiest way to accomplish what you want.
__________________

2013 Coachmen Freedom Express 320BHDS pulled by a 2005 F250 King Ranch CC

A rainy day camping is better than a sunny day at work.
jeeplj8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2011, 11:31 AM   #12
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,280
Jeep4Two, I hate to be the 1 to break the bad news, but the JK Wranglers (at least the 2011 and 2012) only have a maximum of 2000 lb. tow capacity, with a Class 1 hitch. The Wrangler Unlimited have a Class I or II hitch with up to a 3500 lb. tow rating. Both of those properly equipped, of course. Check out this chart: Jeep Towing/Payload Comparison | Jeep.com

I found the hitch classes at each individual model webpage:

2011 Wrangler | Towing Capability and Towing Capacity | Jeep

2011 Wrangler Unlimited | Towing Capability and Towing Capacity | Jeep
__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2011, 04:44 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
Just curious about the thoughts of the folks here. Since the function of the WD Hitches basically are a fulcrum at the point of the hitch ball, are there any concerns of those forces that are applied to the receiver (and the TV frame at the mounting points).

I ask because the Jeep has a small receiver hitch that is bolted using 4 bolts to a cross member just behind the bumper. It's about 8 inches wide (See hitch part bottom of this drawing: Jeep Wrangler Parts - The Official Jeep Parts eStore offered by Chrysler).

I guess I'm wondering how much force is transferred there and if I should be concerned at all. I know based on the forum communities out there that there are a good number of people using WD Hitches on their trailers, but again my need to understand the forces makes me ask these questions

Thanks!
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2011, 12:43 PM   #14
daydreaming about camping
 
jeeplj8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KC area
Posts: 1,402
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
Jeep4Two, I hate to be the 1 to break the bad news, but the JK Wranglers (at least the 2011 and 2012) only have a maximum of 2000 lb. tow capacity, with a Class 1 hitch. The Wrangler Unlimited have a Class I or II hitch with up to a 3500 lb. tow rating. Both of those properly equipped, of course. Check out this chart: Jeep Towing/Payload Comparison | Jeep.com

I found the hitch classes at each individual model webpage:

2011 Wrangler | Towing Capability and Towing Capacity | Jeep

2011 Wrangler Unlimited | Towing Capability and Towing Capacity | Jeep
An interesting aside to this is that when the auto manufactures agreed to start using a uniform standard for trailer towing ratings, most SUV's and light trucks went down. However many 3/4 and up trucks went up. The Wrangler tow rating actually went down (no change in equipment.) Dealers used to tell people you tow 3500 lbs with SWB Wranglers.
__________________

2013 Coachmen Freedom Express 320BHDS pulled by a 2005 F250 King Ranch CC

A rainy day camping is better than a sunny day at work.
jeeplj8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2011, 12:50 PM   #15
daydreaming about camping
 
jeeplj8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KC area
Posts: 1,402
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep4Two View Post
Just curious about the thoughts of the folks here. Since the function of the WD Hitches basically are a fulcrum at the point of the hitch ball, are there any concerns of those forces that are applied to the receiver (and the TV frame at the mounting points).

I ask because the Jeep has a small receiver hitch that is bolted using 4 bolts to a cross member just behind the bumper. It's about 8 inches wide (See hitch part bottom of this drawing: Jeep Wrangler Parts - The Official Jeep Parts eStore offered by Chrysler).

I guess I'm wondering how much force is transferred there and if I should be concerned at all. I know based on the forum communities out there that there are a good number of people using WD Hitches on their trailers, but again my need to understand the forces makes me ask these questions

Thanks!
That cross member is pretty stout. Conventional wisdom would suggest the tow frame should be independent and bolted to the main frame rails (as it was on the TJ Wrangler). But truth be told, for trailers in this weight category that cross member and gussetted plate are plenty stout enough. Keep in mind that until recently most pick-up bumpers were rated at 5K tow.

The WD hitch will put increasing pressure back on the trailer frame to keep the two near level. It functions to lesson the downward force on the tow ball which is the actual fulcrom point. The closer the tow ball to the rear axle, the more beneficial as the angle between the tow ball and trailer is not affected as much by the suspension geometry of the tow vehicle.

Think about ti this way. If the fron of the Jeep is lifted, the rear will lower slightly. If that were a pick-up with an additional 24-36 inches behind the rear axle, the amount the rear end would drop respective to the fron is much greater, despite the angle being the same.

The combination of the short distance from the axle to the tow ball and the WD hitch will result is better performance overall as there is less stress on the WD hitch and the frame of the TT.
__________________

2013 Coachmen Freedom Express 320BHDS pulled by a 2005 F250 King Ranch CC

A rainy day camping is better than a sunny day at work.
jeeplj8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2011, 03:11 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
Thanks all:

The JK's hitch is indeed bolted (4 bolts) to the cross member at the rear of the frame just behind the bumper. I know the Jeep website calls it a 'Class I' hitch but from everything I've read the size of the receiver is 1 1/4 inch on Class I and II hitches with 2" receivers being on the Class II's. Not that it matters since there just seems to be an inconsistency in the info on the website that mostly is done by the marketing department and subject to frequent errors.

The hitch on the 2 door's is the same as the one that goes on the 4 door Jeeps, so I'm confident that there won't be any problems with the WD Hitch causing issues with excessive torsional forces in the receiver. The amount of weight that I'm going to be redistributing is minimal.

Also, as pointed out by LJ8 above the very close proximity of the rear axle to the hitch point (thus the ball) will significantly reduce the tension required to redistribute weight.

If anyone is interested about how weight distributing hitch systems work there is a great thread over here: RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Weight Distribution (WD) Hitch --- How it Works The physics are discussed as well as the practical application of the forces. The first post is a summary of the 150 plus entries in the thread, and having read them all I can say the discussion and debate was exhaustive.

I've decided to go with a Reese Round Bar (#66065) WD Hitch and a shank that will allow me to get about 4 - 5 inches of total drop (current bar has a 2" drop and once I load the WD Hitch the total drop needed to be level will be between 3 and 5 inches in my estimate). By the way - I found the 66065 round bar WD Hitch (no shank) for a net cost of $203 at Advance Auto (currently having a 15% off any order of $100 or more). Add the shank and I'm coming in under $275 with free shipping.

To anyone else out there thinking of towing with a Jeep Wrangler. In my opinion it doesn't matter whether you are going 2 door or 4 door (except for watching weights if you have 2 door, 2000lb tow, 200 tongue). Once you load a Jeep Wrangler with the 3.8L V6 with anything significant (I would consider that anything above 1000lbs) you are going to ALWAYS know it's there. The Jeep Wrangler 3.8L is anemic on it's best unloaded days. Adding a trailer just makes it more so. I would never say it isn't a joy to drive (loaded or not loaded) because it's a Jeep. If the trailer is slowing you down, just pop the top off and take a state highway and enjoy the journey.
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2011, 06:16 PM   #17
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,280
If it were me, I would replace that Class I hitch with a Class III hitch. Class Is are generally rated to tow 2000 lbs., with a 200 lb. tongue weight....definitely lite duty. Class IIIs are generally rated to tow 5000 lbs., with a 500 lb. tongue weight.

Check out some of these hitches: 2011 Jeep Wrangler Trailer Hitch | etrailer.com I don't exactly understand why some of those are rated as Class III hitches, but only show the stats of a Class II hitch....3500 lbs, with a 350 tongue weight. It might be because Jeep Wranglers (Unlimiteds) are rated to tow a maximum of 3500 lbs.....just speculating.

The Class III Draw Tites and Hidden Hitches with 2" receiver looks more substantial than the Curt or Valley Class III hitches.

Beware, even though you might add a stouter hitch to the JK, the tow capacity is set by the manufacturer.....that does not change.

I put a Class III hitch on my 98 TJ years ago. That torquey little 2.5L engine does great in low range off road, but I gotta drop down into 2nd gear when I pulled my little pop-up over Swift Run Gap. I have driven a couple of the 3.8Ls with the 6 speed gear boxes, and there is a lot more power there. If I remember correctly, the JKs with the tow package had lower gearing than the standard Jeeps, so that might be another thing to check out.
__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2011, 08:31 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
@mr guy:

That's where the mfg inaccuracies come in.

The factory hitch has to be a class III or IV based on receiver size. The two door would be Class I based on tow an tongue weight specs (2000, 200). The 4 door would be Class II based on tow ratings.

So really it is all three in a way. Regardless. The part that mounts to the frame on the 2 door and the 4 door model are exactly the same part. the only difference lies in the wheelbase thus the different tow and tongue ratings on the same 2" receiver.

Unless I'm horribly mistaken in some way I think adding a WD hitch will solve my issue.

Numbers measured today reflect: loaded, 1.5" sag rear, .75" rise I the front. Hitch height diff unloaded 5". Adding a WD Hitch and shank with 4" of drop after torsion bars tensioned and adjusted should yield no change in the front, around 1" sag in sag in rear and a level trailer. Careful loading will keep tongue weight in range and trailer weight in range as well.
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2011, 07:36 AM   #19
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,280
When I 1st looked at the Unlimited in 2009 ( I think), the salesman told me the tow package included a Class II hitch, but it had been upgraded from a 1 1/4" yo a 2" receiver . Just because that is done does not make it a Class III receiver......it still is rated at 3500 lbs. tow limit, 350 lb. tongue weight. At that time I was dreaming of pulling my Trailmanor 2720 with the Unlimited......it would have been entirely too much weight for the hitch, and the Jeep. The A Cabins by Forest River are lighter than my Trailmanor.

I am not a mechanical engineer, but my fear to use a WDH on a Class 1 hitch it going to result in failure in the future on the hitch due to metal fatigue. Both upward and downward stresses are being applied to the hitch that is not built for that type of situation. Class III hitches have the stats to pull any of the A Cabins. Even though the Class II hitches have the stats, but I wonder how a WDH would stress that system. BTW, I haven't found any Class I, II, or III hitches that can be used as a weight distributing hitch. If it were me, and I wanted to use a WDH, then I would definetly go with the stoutest hitch.

I mentioned in an earlier post about axle ratios. I couldn't find the information on the net, but I found a 2009 Wrangler brochure from when I looked at those. At that time, Wranglers (except the Rubicon) came with a 3.21 final drive ratio. When adding a tow package, that ratio was lowered to a 3.73 ratio. The Rubicons came with 4:10 gearing, regardless.
__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2011, 09:04 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
I think the Wrangler only has the 3.21 with the 6 speed. In reality there are few Jeeps with the 3.21 as common equipment upgrades usually change the gear. All automatics include the 3.73 gearing, and even most 5 speeds end up with the $50 add on charge for the 3.73. The 4.10 is still available on the Rubicon as well.

Mine has the 3.73 (Automatic Sahara).

Funny thing about all this. If you go to the Jeep website and use their "Build Your Own" tool and click on DETAILS for the Trailer Tow Package, they list the hitch as a Class V -

So what does that tell you about consistency. I agree you want the heaviest receiver possible when using WDH.

Here's why I'm not worried with the factory hitch (same part on my 2 door rated for 2000,200 as on the 4 door rated for 3500, 350):

Without a WDH, the weight of the trailer tongue rests on the ball, connected to the draw bar that fits into the receiver. The receiver is held with a hitch pin that then serves basically as a pivot point (and retainer) for the draw bar. The weight pressing down on the ball (and thus the draw bar) places pressure DOWN on the trailer side of the receiver and UP on the TV side of the receiver. This would be the same type of force that would be applied if I stuck a crow bar into the receiver and pressed down.

With a WDH things change and we can effectively redistribute the net down force at the receiver (thus reducing downward force (weight) on the rear axle and increasing upward force (weight) on the front axle of the TV, while also adding downward force (weight) to the TT's axle).

This happens by way of the torsion bars attached to the A-frame of the trailer that then connect to WDH hitch on the vertical portion of the draw bar shank. The result is that the down forces (weight) at the shank get redistributed by way of the two attachment points on the vertical part of the WDH shank and the torsion bars of the WDH. When pressure is applied to the vertical portion of the shank at the top (top pin of the WDH Head) pressing toward the TV --> and pressure at the bottom of the shank (Bottom Pin of the WDH head) is applied away from the TV <-- the net result is LESS upward force (weight) on the front of the receiver. The weight at the front of the receiver doesn't change

I like to think of it like this: If you had an L shaped crow bar and stuck one end into the receiver and had the other end pointing to the ground. One person holds the horizontal portion and pushes down with a constant force. Another person puts their hands one on top of the other on the vertical portion and applies a forward force with their top hand and a reverse force with their bottom hand. The result of the 2nd person adding the forward reverse pressure will reduce the net effect of the downward force.

Based on this, I believe that the stresses inside the receiver are actually reduced (lessened) as the actual fulcrum is the WDH Shank. The weak link in this process is actually the vertical portion of the shank.

I hope that makes sense. It does to me, but then again I've been reading too much about all this and had to draw this out on paper to get the physical forces acting in the whole system make sense
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
a-frame, a122, a128

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:57 AM.