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Old 11-30-2017, 11:09 AM   #1
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Tow Vehicle Question

Hi All,

What tow vehicle would be best to pull a 2018 12RB Flagstaff by Forest River A Frame camper? And also where is the sink drain located that empties out the sink water, as they never show it in any discussions. I am gaining research for a future purchase of this camper if it is a pretty good one to own. Thanks for all your help in advance!

Thanks,

Chris
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Old 11-30-2017, 11:32 AM   #2
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The sink drains out the side where the sink is located. Do a search in this forum for the words 'grey water'. You'll see several pictures.

As for tow vehicle: it's all about the math with the camper weight and the vehicle. And of course your driving preference. Truck, SUV etc.

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Old 11-30-2017, 11:35 AM   #3
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Tow vehicle is your choice.

Living in Colorado, my minimum would be a mid-sized SUV or a minivan rated to tow at least 3500lbs. Because FR a-frames tend to have actual tongue weights around 400lbs, I would insist on a WDH as part of the package on anything less than a full size SUV or pickup.

Tow vehicle engine should be a 250hp 200ft lbs torque V6 or better. Auxiliary transmission cooler is critical.

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Old 11-30-2017, 11:37 AM   #4
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Chris,

Since the trailer itself weighs just over 2,000 lbs (without any cargo), you'll need a vehicle with a towing capacity of about 3,500 lbs -- which eliminates most of the small SUVs and trucks. I chose a Toyota Highlander to tow my larger high wall A-frame, but there were some mid-size SUVs that would work for you. Make sure it has a tow package.
The sink drain is a black cap on the side under the sink and the water drains directly outside, not into a holding tank.
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Old 11-30-2017, 12:15 PM   #5
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I tow a T21TBHW with a Nissan Frontier crew cab. No issues I have an anti-sway bar to put on but it is more for the She's peace of mind. Have towed over 5000 miles without issues except for the idiots on the road with me.
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Old 12-01-2017, 11:27 AM   #6
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Thanks

Thank you all for your responses I appreciate it and have answered my questions and feel a A Frame is the right choice for me! I will let you all know how I like it when I get it
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Old 12-02-2017, 08:50 PM   #7
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Tow my A122S with a 2016 GMC Canyon diesel. Don't even notice the trailer back there. It's the perfect combo. Power etc and still get 30 imp mpg. First pull was from dealer in Kelowna up to the yukon.
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:29 PM   #8
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I've towed my 194HW with my 2017 Tacoma V6. I could tell it was there, but not very much. Plenty of power to tow it. I've only towed it about 90 miles from the dealer to the house. Turns out they had the water tank full. I would probably empty that before any longer trips, but I have no issues towing it... except that I can't see over it, or around it very well! I'll need to get extended towing mirrors.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:51 PM   #9
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I tow our 2016 T21TBHW with a 2017 Ram 2500 CC CTD SB. I know that it is overkill, but didn't want to "feel it back there" when going thru the mountains (east or west mtn). This past summer went up the east coast, pulling at 68-69 mph thru the mountains and averaged 19mpg, got as good as 21mpg in certain areas of WV going uphill. Might have gone with a 1500 Ram with the EcoDiesel but they had been "pulled" off the market to correct some problems and didn't want to wait or possible deal with the other problems that may come from the "fix".
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creed227 View Post
Hi All,

What tow vehicle would be best to pull a 2018 12RB Flagstaff by Forest River A Frame camper? And also where is the sink drain located that empties out the sink water, as they never show it in any discussions. I am gaining research for a future purchase of this camper if it is a pretty good one to own. Thanks for all your help in advance!

Thanks,

Chris
I have a 98 4Runner that was great for my 06 Santa Fe (about 1.7k lbs) and just bought an a212hw. What a difference, much higher & a bit wider and my car sags now.
I was told to get air shocks or balloon suspension. Has anyone upgraded their suspension for different camper??
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:09 PM   #11
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Chris,

Since the trailer itself weighs just over 2,000 lbs (without any cargo), you'll need a vehicle with a towing capacity of about 3,500 lbs -- which eliminates most of the small SUVs and trucks. I chose a Toyota Highlander to tow my larger high wall A-frame, but there were some mid-size SUVs that would work for you. Make sure it has a tow package.
The sink drain is a black cap on the side under the sink and the water drains directly outside, not into a holding tank.
What yr is your highlander? My wife has a 14 and were thinking of using this as a tow vehicle vs my 98 4runner I currently use. I just got an a212hw and the car drops quote a bit towing. I'm thinking about new suspension.
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Camper View Post
I have a 98 4Runner that was great for my 06 Santa Fe (about 1.7k lbs) and just bought an a212hw. What a difference, much higher & a bit wider and my car sags now.
I was told to get air shocks or balloon suspension. Has anyone upgraded their suspension for different camper??
AZ, just in case you're researching this, the correct term is air bags, not balloon suspension.

Air bags or air shocks do NOT change the weight capacity of the tow vehicle. They simply help level the rear end.
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:29 PM   #13
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Look at "Air Lift" air ride. Worked well for me.
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:42 AM   #14
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AZ, just in case you're researching this, the correct term is air bags, not balloon suspension.

Air bags or air shocks do NOT change the weight capacity of the tow vehicle. They simply help level the rear end.
I'm not looking to change the weight capacity but want to lift my car a bit to avoid additional sagging in the back. So, do you think I just need air bags or air shocks? I can just ask someone local.

(Actually, the customer service rep at the dealer used that term. Thanks for the clarification. Now, I feel like a noob in the forums).
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:44 AM   #15
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Look at "Air Lift" air ride. Worked well for me.
Thanks, I'll do some further research. I have a 98 Runner so the A212HW seems to dwarf my car vs the other camper I had.
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:49 PM   #16
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As I mentioned in my earlier post, I see a combination weight distributing anti-sway hitch as the comprehensive solution to higher tongue weights and taller, wider pop-ups.

I had a Equalizer 2 point 600/6000 installed as part of the purchase package when a test drive revealed lots of "porpoising" by both pop-up and minivan. I couldn't believe the difference the WDH made - the minivan has the same smooth ride towing as it does not towing.

If I had known how effective the Equalizer was, I would have installed one on my previous Explorer/Coleman Westlake PUP combo. That sagged badly, and would sway at anything above 62MPH.

The WDH distributes the tongue weight to both front and rear axles of the tow vehicle so that steering and ride are pretty close to stock. The Equalizer uses the friction of the WDH bars on the trailer mounts to stabilize the tracking of the trailer.

I have used airbags towing large sailboats in the past. While they help, they don't restore the weight to the front end like a WDH does. That restoration of front end weight makes all the difference in steering and handling.

just my experiences
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:30 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by AZ Camper View Post
I'm not looking to change the weight capacity but want to lift my car a bit to avoid additional sagging in the back. So, do you think I just need air bags or air shocks? I can just ask someone local.

(Actually, the customer service rep at the dealer used that term. Thanks for the clarification. Now, I feel like a noob in the forums).
First. go to a scale and weigh everything. Specifically, get the tongue weight, the rear axle weight to see it it is overloaded and take note of how much the front axle is unloaded.

If the rear is overloaded, you'll need to get a weight distributing hitch instead of the suspension helpers. Eve if it isn't overloaded a WDH will lever the TV and provide a better, less bouncy ride.

There is no easy guideline for the front end unloading that I know of. But if you feel less control over the steering while towing, you have an underloaded front. Also if the tongue weight is over the manufactures recommendation, you should consider a WDH rather than just a ride leveling airbag set.
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:21 PM   #18
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My 98 Cherokee was no longer able to manage our A122 without stress. On a budget but was able to get a 2011 Xterra PRO-4X with factory tow package that includes 7-port socket. Just added brake controller and was ready to go.

Thought long about getting a Venza because I don't like climbing into overly large trucks. In the end I'm sure I'm happier with a truck based SUV with rear leaf springs and heavy duty shocks. Just had to learn a new way to climb in using the nerf bar and a-pillar grab handle. : )

4Runner would have been an easy choice, but out of my price range.
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Old 01-01-2018, 03:32 AM   #19
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Look at "Air Lift" air ride. Worked well for me.
I forgot to mention.....I use a Blue Ox WDH AND air bags.

Didn't mean to give the impression you only need air ride.......

I put the air ride on to eliminate the sag I had even with the WDH and stock leaf suspension.
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:07 PM   #20
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2000 Ford F-250 7.3lt diesel. Sounds like a bus, kind of drives like one too but it’s comfortable on long hauls and will pull just about anything. I’m just about to turn 300,000 miles and it shows no sign of getting tired. Tires, brakes and shocks is about all that’s been changed.
Not a choice for everyone but it sure works for us.
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