Hey everyone,
I have a new to me 2020 Flagstaff T12RBST. Just discovered today that neither of the windows in the side walls lock. The plastic spring loaded latch does not get to where it can drop behind the frame of the stationary window. I checked the channel where the sliding window seats to make sure there wasn’t crud keeping the window from closing completely. Nothing there. Has anyone run into this? What did you do to fix it?
I’m thinking:
Use a scribe to mark the aluminum on the stationary window where the face of the latch rests.
Remove the latch
VERY CAREFULLY use a Dremel tool and a small steel burr to mill away the aluminum until the latch can engage.
Not my idea of fun. Is there any other way to fix this?
How much is the latch missing by when trying to seat and lock??
Our older windows latch to the vertical bar. The insect screens need to be slide in their grooves to seal against the latched window.
__________________
2012 Rockwood A122,
2017 Kia Sorento 3.3 V6 AWD ,
2012 Subaru Forester with MT (gone to TV heaven)
I checked the window that is opposite from the sliding window over the screen. It doesn’t slide. It is fixed in place.
On the large window the blade latch is missing dropping behind the edge of the frame by the thickness of the latch ~0.1 inch. On the small window if you force the latch it will lock. But it won’t just drop behind the aluminim frame by itself with you close the window.
I checked the window that is opposite from the sliding window over the screen. It doesn’t slide. It is fixed in place.
On the large window the blade latch is missing dropping behind the edge of the frame by the thickness of the latch ~0.1 inch. On the small window if you force the latch it will lock. But it won’t just drop behind the aluminim frame by itself with you close the window.
It's sounding like your original plan to adjust/cut-back with the dremel is correct . . . If you're able to have a hacksaw blade in a handle (like a wood saw with no support at both blade ends) and precut the line that the dremel work to you may have a cleaner finish. A coarse file may work on the smaller removal project. And yes. . . the latch should have a nice "drop in place" action.
__________________
2012 Rockwood A122,
2017 Kia Sorento 3.3 V6 AWD ,
2012 Subaru Forester with MT (gone to TV heaven)
Presumably you checked both upper and lower tracks for debris. Is fixed window square in frame? Are you sure the latch isn’t broken or slightly bent? Is there plastic or rubber trim on window edge that might have gotten tweaked?
Sorry, just spitballing ideas. Grinding away the aluminum is the last thing I would try; possible water leak, etc.
__________________
Mitch in MN
2018 Patriot (Grey Wolf) 23MK travel trailer
2011 Durango 5.7L and OEM tow package
Thanks everyone for your feedback.
I’m hesitant to remove material to make the latch work. I don’t know the shape of the interior structure of the frame. I “think” I can get away with what I described but if you find out otherwise it’s hard to recover. I think I’m going to try an “additive” approach first. There is clearance between the sliding window frame and the stationary window frame.
I’m thinking to fashion a thin metal plate and glue it to the stationary frame. The latch can catch on this plate. That or I may decide to reflect on that in 25 years of camping I’ve never had a break in or theft and do nothing. �� I let this cat out of the bag to my significant other/ camping partner. She may see things differently. ��
Just discovered the same problem on our 2023 a122s. Thinking of gluing a thin strip of material just to the right of the latch when the window is closed. Between the latch and the EXIT sticker. Thin enough so that when latch is pulled back it clears it but thick enough to hold the window shut.
from a Toronto Canuck
Linear Mode
