Winter camping in hard-sided trailers?

Tinsu · 09-12-2011, 03:23 PM

Have been looking at the A122. I would like to do some late fall, early winter camping. The local dealer said the hard-sided pop-ups are insulated, and should work very well in cold weather as long as your campsite has electricity.

Has anyone camped in the winter?
How do you think the hard-sided trailers would do?
Does anyone plan to camp in the winter in their A122 or similar?
I would drain all the water. No need to use the refrigerator. if that is a problem.
Primarily looking for a warm night's sleep, electric lights, and the stove for cooking.

Thanks.

yvesm · 09-12-2011, 05:21 PM

The insulation is kinda thin and the seals may not be real air tight, Probably will be ok in moderately cool weather (above 20 degrees F). The furnace will run a lot so make sure you have full propane tanks. A quality electric heater is also a good idea.

buzzards27 · 09-12-2011, 07:28 PM

A good electric heater is must and a back up is good idea. Might as well use the power to heat and preserve your propane for a power outage.

We did a few days in below 30 weather and our electric heater ran almost non stop overnight. The walls were cold to the touch and we found several drafts that we corrected over the summer.

prof_fate · 09-12-2011, 07:55 PM

Depends on several factors - how do you like the cold? My father in law camps in his pop up, sans any heater, in single digits. But then he keeps his house at 62 in the winter...me, I like it more around 72 and hate being cold.

Besides insualtion you need to think about your water tanks and pipes - gray and black as well as fresh and the hose feeding in (if you use one, if they campground has their water on in the winter). Most companies offer a 'polar pack' option - extra insulation but more importantly heaters on all the tanks.

TURBS · 09-12-2011, 08:01 PM

I camped once in our tt that had the "winter" or "cold" weather package .
insulated and covered underside as well as heated tanks and heated sewer pipes .
went through a full 30lb tank of propane in about 5 days was no colder than 35 outside at night and 50's during the day .and I only ran the heater at 66 at night and turned all the way down during the day .
I stayed in it for 4 weeks while working at a job.
4 30lb tanks in 4 weeks .

dimurrrw · 09-12-2011, 08:09 PM

I'm assuming you have a 30 amp power feed. If you do, you should be able to run two portable electric heaters - one on high and one on low, but not on the same 15 amp circuit. Total is about 2500 watts and you have up to 3600 at your disposal. You should still be able to still run your 12 volt lights and, maybe, your refrigerator.

rawlus · 09-12-2011, 08:15 PM

We have an A122 and have a trip planned in late November. Our plan is to supplement the stock heated mattress with a heated blanket. Between the electric heat pump and the propane furnace it should be enough to take the chill off. The camper will already be winterized by this point so no worries about water issues. Will use stove and foil packs mostly for food.

Mike G · 09-12-2011, 08:21 PM

I plan on camping all winter long, as long as there is no big snow forcast. I think a single 1500 watt electric heater will be enough to keep it reasonable inside of my A122. I will winterize my camper in Nov. and just take a water container with me. I hope we don`t see one snow flake this year.

Jeep4Two · 09-12-2011, 08:29 PM

Keep in. Ind that the a series campers heat pump shuts down at 45 degrees I believe. I would think a ceramic heater would probably be the way to go, or for short trips the LP furnace with the heat pump fan to circulate the warm air might be a good option.

teamgl · 09-12-2011, 09:23 PM

We camped 3 nights and the temps dipped well below zero. We were using a 2007 Scotty Camper (retro remake) and did just fine. We were dry camping so no electric heat while sleeping at night -- just the propane heater (Atwood hydroflame 12,000 btu forced air furnace). Based on our experience we had good luck adding some extra layers between us and the elements. We put carpeting over the linoleum flooring throughout the camper and some thermarest pads between the bed and wall for some added R-values.

When using the cookstove - be sure to adequately ventilate the camper.

Tinsu · 09-13-2011, 08:33 AM

teamgl, that's a bit chilly!

buzzards27 · 09-13-2011, 09:39 AM

I added an additional outlet to the dedicated 20 amp micro circuit for my primary electric heater. We seldom use the micro and would never have a need to with the heater going. Feel a lot better with the heater on a 12 ga. wire.

Another thing we do is buy several RV antifreeze at a big box to use for hand flushing. Allows the DW to use the toilet, every hour, without adding water to the tank.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dimurrrw

I'm assuming you have a 30 amp power feed. If you do, you should be able to run two portable electric heaters - one on high and one on low, but not on the same 15 amp circuit. Total is about 2500 watts and you have up to 3600 at your disposal. You should still be able to still run your 12 volt lights and, maybe, your refrigerator.

Tinsu · 09-13-2011, 10:35 AM

As I tent camper, I have never worried about amp power feed. I just looked up the power feed at Indiana Dunes SP. It has 50 amp service. So, I assume the key is that it should be 30 amp service or higher, correct?

buzzards27 · 09-13-2011, 06:45 PM

They usually list the higher amperage available. Most have 30 amps and many have 50 amps. If they say 50, there should be a 50, a 30 and a 20 amp breaker available.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinsu

As I tent camper, I have never worried about amp power feed. I just looked up the power feed at Indiana Dunes SP. It has 50 amp service. So, I assume the key is that it should be 30 amp service or higher, correct?

flyrotor · 09-13-2011, 06:53 PM

In addition to all the comments, you should be able to use your fridge without any issues, it won't take a lot to keep it cool.

LakeCumberlandCamper · 10-01-2011, 03:52 AM

Have and will use my A126, with generator powering the heat pump, no problems. Don't plan on winterizing the camper or the boat until the last second-- don't even like typing or saying the "w" word!

Palomino_G210 · 10-01-2011, 06:24 AM

I have been doing some cool weather camping, 40-50 night time, and I have found that I am getting condensation on the interior of any enclosed spaces that have access to the exterior. Like storage places with an exterior hatch. The condensation is on the alu frame that penetrates the shell and on the thinner hatch door itself. I wipes these off in the a.m. or open the hatch during the day to allow drying air to pass thru.

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