Winterizing

[OYO]

I put one in ours before I realized there was one as Fred described.

This photo may help:

[Murph60]

Originally Posted by pgandw

My 2019 A213HW came with an antifreeze induction valve located underneath the camper in the pipe going from the water tank to the water pump. You might check there, and/or install the kit there.


Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame

So I looked and it does have a valve by the FW tank for antifreeze. Looks like a PIA to modify or have to hook up a hose to the AF from under the TT. Wondering if I would be better off just doing the converter at the water pump?

[D W]

Originally Posted by Murph60

I will look pgand, but if I install the conversion kit, I am thinking I mount as shown in this pic, before the pump filter??? So outlet, converter, pump filter, pump. The only reason I ask is a saw a vid do it this way, but saw another where he put the converter between the filter and the pump which did not make alot of sense.

Thanks

When you say "filter" do you mean an actual filter, or the sediment bowl with the stainless screen inside?

[OYO]

Originally Posted by Murph60

So I looked and it does have a valve by the FW tank for antifreeze. Looks like a PIA to modify or have to hook up a hose to the AF from under the TT. Wondering if I would be better off just doing the converter at the water pump?

IMO Yes. It's easier to set the AF jug next to the bypass and do everything inside.

[Murph60]

Originally Posted by D W

When you say "filter" do you mean an actual filter, or the sediment bowl with the stainless screen inside?

Yes, the waterpump filter with stainless screen. See arrow in this pic

[Murph60]

Originally Posted by OYO

IMO Yes. It's easier to set the AF jug next to the bypass and do everything inside.

Thanks

[D W]

Originally Posted by Murph60

Yes, the waterpump filter with stainless screen. See arrow in this pic

I placed my kit between the "filter" and the pump so the pink stuff never runs through it. I leave the lever in the straight-up position. This lessens the chance of the pink stuff back draining into the filter and going into the FW tank. Just my preference.

[Murph60]

Originally Posted by D W

I placed my kit between the "filter" and the pump so the pink stuff never runs through it. I leave the lever in the straight-up position. This lessens the chance of the pink stuff back draining into the filter and going into the FW tank. Just my preference.

Good to know DW. Thank you.

[WolfPup2018]

Forget the 3 way valve, it just limits your water flow. Just disconnect the hose at the pump , the side where it pulls from the tank, sometimes it’s a hose clamp or a crimp connector. Cut off the crimp connector and disconnect the hose from the pump. There’s an adaptor you can get that screws onto the pump, then a short hose goes into the one gallon RV antifreeze. Turn on the pump, open all the valves until the pink comes out. Done!

This way you get antifreeze in the pump to protect it. You keep it out of the tank.

First before all that drain the rank, unscrew the low point drains, by pass the hot water heater.

Then drain the hot water tank. Leave the plug slightly open during the winter.

Boom done

[jay2703]

I have a piece of poly hose with a fitting that goes to the inlet of the water pump. Unscrew the inlet line and attach my hose then drop the other end in the gallon bottle of antifreeze. When I'm done, reinstall the inlet hose.

[WolfPup2018]

Originally Posted by jay2703

I have a piece of poly hose with a fitting that goes to the inlet of the water pump. Unscrew the inlet line and attach my hose then drop the other end in the gallon bottle of antifreeze. When I'm done, reinstall the inlet hose.

Yep I do it the same way. Quick, easy and no fuss.

[Don the Cycler]

Is it sufficient to just blow out your lines and not use antifreeze at all?

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by Don the Cycler

Is it sufficient to just blow out your lines and not use antifreeze at all?

Absolutely, as long as you do a thorough job and don't forget things like the toilet valve and water pump strainer.
I have never used antifreeze in any RV, even when living in a very cold part of Colorado. It can work, even though It scares most folks on the forum

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Don the Cycler

Is it sufficient to just blow out your lines and not use antifreeze at all?

The key to blowing out waterlines is to do iy long enough. Keep faucets open long enough with air flowing that you see no water mist coming out.

Also drain water heater afterward as air aline doesn't remove all water.

I like to start at faucets farthest from water inlet and work back. Repeat a couple times.

I prefer the "blow out" method as Ilike to use my TT during the winter months. With antifreeze it used to take hours to flush first. Now just fill water tank, close up system, add water, and bleed air.

[Mandog]

My camper has a suction hose and valve at the on board fresh water pump. I place the hose in the gallon of RV antifreeze. I also blow out my lines before adding antifreeze. Remove drain plug from water heater and place in bypass. Leave plug out while wintering, this will allow you to see if it’s correctly in bypass. If you have low point drains open them after blowing lines out. I take my time doing this because a bust d line behind or under a hard to access area is not fun. Also ensure you pump antifreeze thru th shower, all sinks, outside shower, outside water hose connection if it has it and toilets. Run each one until you see good strong antifreeze. This will also flush the traps and drain lines. I use 2 gallons in my 39’ Forest river vibe. Blowing out reduces amount of antifreeze ended. Also pour some into toilet to keep valve rubber wet, A couple inches.

[Murph60]

should you also pump antifreeze in the inlet hose for the fresh water tank? This would be the hose between the FW tank and the pump, since the pump will be pushing in the opposite direction. My FW tank has an antfreeze bypass so it wont go into the tank.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

The key to blowing out waterlines is to do iy long enough. Keep faucets open long enough with air flowing that you see no water mist coming out.

Also drain water heater afterward as air aline doesn't remove all water.

I like to start at faucets farthest from water inlet and work back. Repeat a couple times.

I prefer the "blow out" method as Ilike to use my TT during the winter months. With antifreeze it used to take hours to flush first. Now just fill water tank, close up system, add water, and bleed air.

I can't understand why it would take hours to flush out the AF when you want to use your trailer? I use AF every year and in the spring when we open back up I just hook up the water, run each faucet for a few seconds until it runs clear and I'm done. 5 minutes tops.


I'm also convinced that it's nearly impossible to get all the water out of the lines with only air. When I start sucking the AF in I'm always amazed at how much water still comes out of each faucet before the AF starts flowing. Even though I blow air through the lines first.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

I can't understand why it would take hours to flush out the AF when you want to use your trailer? I use AF every year and in the spring when we open back up I just hook up the water, run each faucet for a few seconds until it runs clear and I'm done. 5 minutes tops.





I'm also convinced that it's nearly impossible to get all the water out of the lines with only air. When I start sucking the AF in I'm always amazed at how much water still comes out of each faucet before the AF starts flowing. Even though I blow air through the lines first.

I agree, if you don't put antifreeze in the fresh tank, it won't take long to flush out of the lines, but I also know it takes several flushes of each faucet to get it out where I can't taste or smell it. So somewhere less than hours but longer than a few minutes.
I chose to not use antifreeze as we use our RV all year, no matter where we have lived. Having to set all the bypass valves, insert antifreeze, reset valves, remove antifreeze is a PITA everytime you want to take out the RV.
I have an on demand water heater so don't have to mess with the tank for that.
So I just hook my compressor and blow everything out. Usually takes about 15 minutes tops and when I'm ready to go on the next trip, I just add water and don't worry about using water to rinse out AF into tanks or buckets that I would then need to dump before heading to my favorite boondocking site.
I also agree you can't get all the water 100% out but you don't need to. Just enough so that whatever is left has enough room to expand without harm. I leave the low point drains open.
I stopped using antifreeze after the second winter with my first RV decades ago. I did have to replace one pump sediment screen bowl when I forgot to empty it. Lesson learned to not get interrupted before I complete my blowout process
Everyone does what makes them comfortable, but either way can and does work just fine.

[PRay]

I didn't see it covered but just scanned most posts; if you have and electric Water heater, cut off the power to it before draining the tank. If not you will burn out the element. Don't know if it's true on current models, but it is true on my 2013 Rockwood Signature.



My Suburban water heater has an ac switch behind the propane valve (hard to see and reach). I can also open an inside door and turn off power to the water heater. Note the water heater switch on my power panel is only for the propane which is only needed to be 'ON' is if you plan to not drain the water heater.... note to self, keep a watch on your propane tank level...

[c4cache]

Just want to put this out there for people to think about, I drain all my tanks and lines by opening low point and start at hi point opening all water points to let gravity do it's thing, pull plug on water heater. I then blow out the system with compressed air regulated to 20psi as all my lines are PEX, this is where i do things different, air will blow past water in your lines, i get my shop vac out and cupping it with my hands around the low point drains as my wife opens all the faucets and flush the toilet turning my system into a vacuum to clear ALL water from the system. at this point i am done, i do-not add antifreeze, i have never needed it, We live in Salt Lake at about 4700' we average about two weeks a year that git down to around 18°. please if you use this, as a disclaimer, you need a wet dry vac in wet mode!