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Old 08-30-2015, 01:16 PM   #1
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Rear tow hitch

This is probably somewhere already, but it escapes me.

Anyone know the limits on the 1.25" hitch on the back of the Trilogy? More specifically, the 37FB and the 3715FB.

I'm guessing 100 lbs hitch and 350 lbs weight....but it's just a guess.

Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2015, 02:16 PM   #2
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Yep, it's good for a bike rack, that's about it.
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Old 08-30-2015, 02:52 PM   #3
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That is a Class 1 hitch. No trailer light plug.
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:15 PM   #4
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I put the 1 1/4" to 2" adapter in mine, and then put our bike rack on. And then I promptly removed it. There is no way I am travelling like that. Too much slop and flex, I would not be comfortable having our bikes back there. Looking at how it is mounted, I think I am just going to cut it off and replace with a more sturdily built unit. Not interested in arriving at our destination, and wondering where we lost our bikes!
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:46 AM   #5
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Was the slop and flex in the 1.25" hitch piece or in the adapter inside the hitch you used to make it take a 2" insert?
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:32 AM   #6
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The slop is definitely all from the adapter piece. I just don't feel comfortable using that hitch, when I can easily upgrade it to something more sturdy.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:39 AM   #7
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Have towed with 2 bikes on the smaller hitch for thousands of miles. My SWAGMAN rack is adjustable for either size hitch. YES, agree on the more sloppy situation when the adapter is used on my truck versus without it on the fifth wheel. I am a motorcyclist and have various ratchet straps at the ready. I always use 2 straps at strategic bounce points and it eliminates about 70% of movement. Nothing is perfect with the condition of America's roads!
Point to remember: regardless of type of rack; each trip when you remove bikes, keep the right tool(s) handy to check and tighten all bolts and nuts on the RACK ITSELF. They WILL work loose over time. ( trust me on this, don't ask how I learned this the hard way).
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:46 AM   #8
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Yes, it is a class 1 hitch, and I found a 250lb weight limit in a 2012 brochure.

Based on my observation of the frame underneath, which was nothing (means 'I can't see it without taking it apart'), and the lack of consistent data from Dynamax, I'm going to restrict my use to 225lbs (max minus 10%).

It probably could handle more, but in reality, it's all I need. Bikes and maybe some stuff I don't want inside the rig.

Here's the pdf I'm referencing: http://media.rvusa.com/library/trilogy.pdf
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:22 PM   #9
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I would be concerned about it bouncing in and breaking the back glass
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Priusron View Post
I would be concerned about it bouncing in and breaking the back glass
That is why I am hesitant to use it, they bounce around a lot!
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:51 PM   #11
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They cannot bounce IF you find strategic points or have half rings welded on so you can RATCHET STRAP the bicycle rack from BOTH SIDES. I have good spots on the Silverback. Apparently you would need to investigate and choose. The KEY is RATCHET.....no slippage when traveling.
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:56 PM   #12
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You should use a pinch bolt like this:

THULE STL2 Snug-Tite Lock 2 - Eastern Mountain Sports

Stops most bouncing around.

Also, you do want a small amount of "give" in your rack. If it didn't, it would be "brittle" and break.
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:04 AM   #13
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I have the pinch bolt for my Thule bike rack. I believe the insert shafts needs to be threaded for it to work. I have the bikes far enough back so they do not contact the back of the rig when bouncing. Yes, they do bounce.
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:06 AM   #14
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I did have my old rack break, dragging the bikes until a trucker flagged me down. Not pretty. Salvaged one of the bikes.
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Old 09-05-2015, 05:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gauchoverde View Post
I have the pinch bolt for my Thule bike rack. I believe the insert shafts needs to be threaded for it to work. I have the bikes far enough back so they do not contact the back of the rig when bouncing. Yes, they do bounce.
Mine has a nut inside that is held in place by a rubber thing that's part of the closure for the end of the 2" tube. I had trouble with the nut not staying near the edge of the tube, so the pinch bolt threads couldn't catch it. I bought a large "easy" spring about 1-1/2 in diameter and cut a couple of coils of it and put it behind the nut, so it holds the nut against the side of the 2" tube. Problem solved.
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