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Old 06-28-2014, 04:05 PM   #221
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Ervinglobal. What did you do to fix the creaking in the bathroom and the steps?
I pulled out the drawer under the step and my wife was standing on it so i can see where the noise is coming from. When I located the problem area close to the outside wall 1 inch inside I put a 2" crew in there. It's holding now I don't know for how long it should have been glued. The floor in the bathroom again I let my wife walk on it and listen to it. I took out the panel in the storage and climbed inside and put a shim between the aluminum floor and the floor material. I used PL 400 glue to glue that in. I hope this will help you. John Armstrong give me this advice a while back when he was still working there. Will see if this will be a permanent fix?
Cheers, Ervin
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Old 06-28-2014, 11:02 PM   #222
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I'm a hands on guy I can fix almost anything so don't want to take it back to dealer. ( we did insulate the undercarriage as it was not insulated, also modified the heating docks)
Can you provide details/pics on what you did to insulate the underbelly? My 2014 is not insulated and had many issues with the freeze early this year. I am going to ask the factory to do something but I am looking for good ideas that work.

Thanks!
John
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:46 AM   #223
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Thanks for the info. When I was in Elkhart getting some minor repairs, I was told that they needed 2 to 3 days to fix the squeaking.
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:51 AM   #224
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Originally Posted by John Hagen View Post
Can you provide details/pics on what you did to insulate the underbelly? My 2014 is not insulated and had many issues with the freeze early this year. I am going to ask the factory to do something but I am looking for good ideas that work.

Thanks!
John
Hello John
We have used a special padded insulation which works only when you actually heating the inside part of your unit. Reflective double bubble insulation. I got it from Rona but I think you can get it in Home depot also. They come in a different roll sizes. It's about half inch thick. I insulated the side of the beam too and mine was 48 inch wide so I used aluminum tape to make it air tight. It's a lot of work, it took me two days as many wires are in the way I had to find a away to cut and fasten the insulation pad. If you do it watch out for moving parts and hoses for the slide out make sure they not going to get tangled. I also replaced all the screws to zinc as they used only zinc coated and most of them broke when I was trying to get them out( it was already rusted to the frame).
I do not have any pictures ... sorry. Regular insulation would not work as we have a big hole a side of the frames where the slides mechanisms come out on the side just over the two wheels and water can get in there and that would make the insulation wet and it would not serve any purpose. I'm still trying to find a seal for that also to make the underbelly water tight. Generally this trailer built very well just lacking of features as so called arctic insulation. So people can use it for all year around in my opinion. I have not tried it out in the cold weather yet but I'm sure it will improve some. The factory laid most of the water lines in the double floor system inside the heating channel so in wintertime I think it's safe when the furnace is running. I would have designed it a little different it would not cost that much more when you do it from the get go. It's just a big pain working on your back in a very limited space. I used a lot of tie raps also to fasten hanging wires to make it more neater. Also I used aluminum tape (made the hole smaller) where the waterlines going into the heat channel in the underbelly at the back of the heat channel. I find another place where the heat channel is cut to heat the underbelly behind the panel under the bathroom. This two places if the underbelly getting heat and have some insulation it's enough to get the floor warmer. Will see?

Cheers
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:06 AM   #225
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Originally Posted by gauchoverde View Post
Thanks for the info. When I was in Elkhart getting some minor repairs, I was told that they needed 2 to 3 days to fix the squeaking.
I think what I did was just a quick fix (shimming it from the bottom) as the floor double layer with a plywood on top (sub floor). If the plywood delaminated it will work only for a short time. Ones this happens the only way to fix it if the sub floor changed. to that in the trailer all the things has to be removed ( tub, vanity, toilet, vinyl flooring) and replace re glue the sub floor put new vinyl floor and assemble back the rest. It's possible they would do that but it's a big job. Mine was making squeaking noise front of the vanity and the toilet about midway. So far so good keep my fingers crossed.
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:44 PM   #226
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Thumbs up

I have finally located the leak under my road slide out. I put a strip of seal on L shape aluminum channel which when it's closed will create a seal touching my primary 3 inch rubber seal which supposed to seal both ways " but it did not" when the slide goes inside the slide lifts up and the seal is not touching the bottom of the slide. Also I fixed the big hole beside the hydraulic cylinder. I hope this will prevent the water going inside the underbelly and also going underneath my slide.
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:52 PM   #227
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Originally Posted by ervinglobal View Post
I have finally located the leak under my road slide out. I put a strip of seal on L shape aluminum channel which when it's closed will create a seal touching my primary 3 inch rubber seal which supposed to seal both ways " but it did not" when the slide goes inside the slide lifts up and the seal is not touching the bottom of the slide. Also I fixed the big hole beside the hydraulic cylinder. I hope this will prevent the water going inside the underbelly and also going underneath my slide.
Any pictures?
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:54 PM   #228
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I hope I'm not posting this a second time the first time I don't think it went through... sorry
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:34 PM   #229
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Ervinglobal that white seal in your second picture needs to be put on the outside bottom of your slide. When the slide comes in it will contact the wiper seal on the bottom and close up the leak.
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