Champion Dual Fuel Inverter Q.C. to RV On Board Propane

[hbillsmith]

In a previous thread, forum member 'clutchD' posted photos and experience from adapting his Champion Dual Fuel Inverter to run off his RV's onboard propane Quick Connect (the port typically used for a BBQ grill). That thread is here: ClutchD's Champion Dual Fuel Propane Q.C. Solution.

I communicated with 'clutchD' and assembled the photos and parts list into a single reference sheet. Perhaps this will help someone.

[hbillsmith]

My initial concern was that the RV Quick Connect system flows thru a 1/4 inch Quick Connect adapter. The Champion fuel feed passes thru a reducer just as it enters the Safety Valve (1/4" to 1/8"). Forum member "clutchD" and others have been reporting good success with the Champion Dual Fuel Inverters for quite some time so this stuff is probably moot but just for grins, I continued my research working to ensure that the trailer's On Board Propane port would provide sufficient flow. I contacted Champion, Forest River, a Propane Equipment Supplier and a few others I've forgotten now. The only thing left to do if one wants to be even more accurate would be to buy/borrow a Propane Pressure test guage. Those gauges cost about $100 and come with a male quick connect that would plug right into the QC port. In the mean time, this may be helpful to go along with the diagram:

Champion Inverter Gas Supply required: “You need 1/2 PSI with a flow rate of at least 76,000 BTU/hour”

From Propane Gas Expert: “Most Propane equipment runs at 1/2 PSI and equals approximately 14 WC with maximum flow of 200 BTU/hour”

Typical RV Propane QC Port Delivers: .39 psi equals approximately 10” to 11” Water Column and provides 160,000 BTU/hour

F.R. Suburban RV furnace Install Guide: “Gas supply pressure for purposes of input adjustment: Minimum – 11” WC / Maximum 13” WC”

[Bama Rambler]

That's good info. However, if the generator requires 76,000 btu/h, but the port only provides 160 btu/h, how does the generator even run? But according to Clutch's thread, it does.

Using the above value and given the energy of a gallon of propane, that generator uses about a gallon and hour of propane. According to the champion site that generator should run 14.5 hours on 5 gallons of propane, which is about 1/3rd gal/hr, or about 31,500 btu/h. Looks like the run time was figured on all idle time, and the required flow rate was calculated on full load.

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

That's good info. However, if the generator requires 76,000 btu/h, but the port only provides 160 btu/h, how does the generator even run? But according to Clutch's thread, it does.

Using the above value and given the energy of a gallon of propane, that generator uses about a gallon and hour of propane. According to the champion site that generator should run 14.5 hours on 5 gallons of propane, which is about 1/3rd gal/hr, or about 31,500 btu/h. Looks like the run time was figured on all idle time, and the required flow rate was calculated on full load.

Might that be 160k but per hour. Forgot the K.

[hbillsmith]

Originally Posted by garbonz

Might that be 160k but per hour. Forgot the K.

160K or 160,000 is Correct. My typo.

Wish the .moderator could let me go back and fix it. There are several users I have been in contact with that are running fine using the onboard propane.

[TitanMike]

I think this is a great setup but consider that running the gen/inverter for long periods of time will deplete your onboard Propane much quicker.

I prefer to just carry a couple of 20# tanks in the pickup for the gen/inverter. Easier to deal with when I need to get more propane than removing the 30# tanks from the trailer. Also less risk of running out of propane when you really need the furnace.

I guess it's just a matter of choice, use the smaller tanks and save the mounted tanks for furnace, stove, etc or deal with moving the heavier tanks when they need filling.

[Bama Rambler]

Originally Posted by hbillsmith

160K or 160,000 is Correct. My typo.

Wish the .moderator could let me go back and fix it. There are several users I have been in contact with that are running fine using the onboard propane.

Well... that makes a lot more sense! I should have caught that to begin with.

Started to run the calc to see what 11" WC through a 1/4" orifice would flow, but my program wouldn't run, and I got busy and forgot about it.

[hbillsmith]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I think this is a great setup but consider that running the gen/inverter for long periods of time will deplete your onboard Propane much quicker.

I prefer to just carry a couple of 20# tanks in the pickup for the gen/inverter. Easier to deal with when I need to get more propane than removing the 30# tanks from the trailer. Also less risk of running out of propane when you really need the furnace.

I guess it's just a matter of choice, use the smaller tanks and save the mounted tanks for furnace, stove, etc or deal with moving the heavier tanks when they need filling.

Mike, I somewhat in agreement with you here. I can't see using the onboard QC for a long period (especially in the winter). I like to use the Q.C. just for a short period, say a battery recharge cycle or perhaps a shot of A/C in the afternoon before the weather cools down. If I were pulling a Travel Trailer, I could see running it in the truck bed while taking a break at a roadside highway stop.

[clutchd]

The generator runs with zero problems on the quick connect at low idle and high idle. Works at low loads and high Max watt loads, no problem. Runs at macs load with furnace and hot water tank running and a grill off the quick connect (I installed a "t" and have 2 connections, no problems.

It works great, one of the best mods I did.

Now, I bought the generator to run the AC in the summer. I don't use it in the cold much other than to recharge batteries. I dry camp with the occasional electric only site. I have 1200 hrs with propane and a few hundred on gasoline. I don't run it around the clock like some do, I keep it on when I need it, off when I don't.

Any questions pm me or somehow get me to pay attention to a post.

I keep my generator in my truck bed so I use an extension for from the trailer to the truck.

[hbillsmith]

By the way, if you don't care about retaining the tank option then just ignore the left half of the graphic and don't assemble the pieces for tank. All you will need is the 2 parts on the upper right and a premade extension hose if you want to be running further away from the trailer.

[ibra0078]

Thank-you for the post, looking in purchasing the dual fuel champion inverter and I was wondering if anyone has tried to connect it to the quick connect on a TT. Looking at the photo I'm trying to figure out what exactly is needed as the picture isn't really clear. I will be sourcing the stuff from Amazon.

Thanks

[hbillsmith]

Several have done what your attempting. Here's a pretty detailed thread about it from someone who is doing it.

Click Here for Link to ClutchD Thread

Also as relates to the picture in my post above, there are two boxes with parts at the top of the picture. Parts on the left box are needed if you want to retain the option of not only connecting to your trailer but also connect to a tank. Those parts are installed in the setup just below that box (closeup of the regulator modded and closeup showing what it looks like connected to the tank.

If you just want to convert to trailer connect only, then you just need those parts in the right box (and the closeup's just below on the right side of pic). You will be adapting the Champion supplied regulator so that it can plug right into your trailer. There are 2 pieces, the quick connect plug that fits your standard trailer quick connect and a reducer that adapts the female hole on the regulator so it can accept the QC plug.

[ibra0078]

Originally Posted by hbillsmith

Several have done what your attempting. Here's a pretty detailed thread about it from someone who is doing it.

Click Here for Link to ClutchD Thread

Also as relates to the picture in my post above, there are two boxes with parts at the top of the picture. Parts on the left box are needed if you want to retain the option of not only connecting to your trailer but also connect to a tank. Those parts are installed in the setup just below that box (closeup of the regulator modded and closeup showing what it looks like connected to the tank.

If you just want to convert to trailer connect only, then you just need those parts in the right box (and the closeup's just below on the right side of pic). You will be adapting the Champion supplied regulator so that it can plug right into your trailer. There are 2 pieces, the quick connect plug that fits your standard trailer quick connect and a reducer that adapts the female hole on the regulator so it can accept the QC plug.

Thank you so much, if I want to add an extension hose between the Safety Value inlet and the Regulator, do you know what fittings I need to make it work. Looking in purchasing this hose https://www.amazon.com/SHINESTAR-Pro.../dp/B07F1QN9TH. Thanks

[Half Ton Heavy]

LOL, thinking it would be the same fittings needed for a different brand (Firman) I stupidly ordered them on amazon before I had the generator.



Long story short: They're not the same needed fittings.

[jbflag21ds]

I just built the same for my 3400W Champion dual fuel.

I separated the high pressure regulator for the tank from the low pressure regulator for the generator and put quick connect fittings on so that I can use a 25ft hose to keep the generator away from the trailer. Since I put a female QC on the tank regulator I can still connect direct or via the hose to the generator regulator still, giving me options for how to fuel the thing.

I only plan on using the genny to supplement the solar and DC-DC charging when not on shore power. Also for non-RV uses, so I'll drag a 20# tank around as needed in those cases. I don't plan on ever putting gas in it if I can help it.

[Masternav]

Originally Posted by hbillsmith

In a previous thread, forum member 'clutchD' posted photos and experience from adapting his Champion Dual Fuel Inverter to run off his RV's onboard propane Quick Connect (the port typically used for a BBQ grill). That thread is here: ClutchD's Champion Dual Fuel Propane Q.C. Solution.

I communicated with 'clutchD' and assembled the photos and parts list into a single reference sheet. Perhaps this will help someone.

This is great info! Note that my new Champion 2500 Dual Fuel Inverter (100899) has different fittings to make this work. Looks like Champion forced a 1/4 NPT male fitting from the flow restrictor into a 5/16 flare fitting on the regulator. Somehow, it didn't leak and didnt completely destroy the threads. A 1/4 male quick connect attached directly to the flow restrictor (with LPG appropriate pipe dope) and it tightened up nicely and doesn't leak. I added an EasyStart 364 to my 13.5K Coleman Mach 10 AC unit and the AC now works great off my low pressure port.

The regulator required the 5/16 flare fitting to 1/4 NPT adapter. A female quick connect is on order. I also ordered a complete new hose, regulator, and flow restrictor from Champion, as somebody on here also suggested. Part number for the hose for my particular generator is 100711152.

I am a happy camper!

[cinergi]

How on earth do I separate the regulator from the safety valve? It's practically cemented into place. Tips appreciated! Doesn't even seem to fit any of my normal wrenches. Thanks!

[Rom1usa]

Here is my setup ---- Thanks for this great resource everyone!