Quote:
Originally Posted by Rbalsinger
You do not have to worry about breaking anything on the furnace. The two pipes are steel and fit into sleeves on the chrome cover. They can be quite a wiggle job to get them off under normal conditions. You might bend the covers but that is a good excuse to replace them.
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X-2.
These furnace exhausts are intended to be removed easily. The exhaust from the furnace slides into a slightly larger exhaust tube attached to that exterior faceplate. The two tubes...furnace exhaust and exhaust extension...are not clamped together.
When you remove the chrome escutcheon plate, the concentric tubes come apart fairly easily.
I serviced the sail switch on my furnace, and I discovered that the easiest way to reinstall the furnace was to remove the outside exhaust, position the furnace, and then replace the outside exhaust. Otherwise, hitting that target while working inside a tight cabinet space was very difficult.
So get out your putty knife and have at it.
This would be my choice for the job...stiff and sharp. You might benefit from applying a bit of heat with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the caulk/adhesives.
In my rig, the "gasket" material around the exhaust escutcheon plate is a kind of soft, silly-putty-like material that keeps rain out but doesn't harden...and can take a little bit of heat.
P.S. As for the combustion air intake, the connection is usually even less elaborate. In my furnace, I'm not sure if there is even a "sealed" connection between the furnace and the combustion air intake. Each setup is different. So try not to ruin your exterior exhaust/intake system. They all function similarly, but not all have precisely the same design.
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Jim Moore
SW Colorado - 4-Corners Area
2020 Jayco X213 Rear Slide, 2006 RAM 1500 with Firestone Airbags No WDH
400 watts of solar on the roof & 200 watts of suitcase & 2 x GC2 batteries
Starlink Gen-3 running from a 500 watt pure sinewave inverter
Boondock almost exclusively on the shores of
Lake Vallecito