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Old 08-19-2018, 04:22 PM   #21
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Put a remote temp sensor in the fridge so you can check temp without opening the door. It takes a long time (hour) to catch up every time the door is opened. It's not like a home fridge. The slide on that right fin is your temp adjuster (thermistor). Higher is colder. Make sure the wire end is near the top of the plastic sleeve then slide the sleeve up for Max cold.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:22 PM   #22
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Colder is always up on the fin not lower



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Old 08-19-2018, 04:37 PM   #23
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Fridge facts

This type of fridge is actually an absorption fridge. The ammonia in the system is heated by an electric 120 volt (sometimes 120/12V) heater or a small propane flame.

These work really slowly but if the freezer is getting cold the fridge will too, it is the same refrigerant loop to cool both. If you load it with a bunch of warm food it could take a couple of days to get cold as it not only has to cool the fridge but the food too. Make sure everything you put in it is cold. We have put bottles of ice in the veggie trays to help cool things down and in really hot climates we will refreeze the bottles at night when the outside temps drop.

I use two fans on mine: A computer muffin fan on the outside coils with a thermostat that comes on at about 120 degrees to greatly increase the cooling efficiency and a small fan in the fridge compartment that runs on two D cell batteries to push the cold air in the bottom of the fridge back up to the top shelf. The thermostat for the whole fridge is on that slider on the cooling fins.


Also, it can take 30 minutes to cool the cold air lost from opening the door for more than a few seconds. If you have a group of fridge lookers - good luck, no fridge can keep up with that.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-19-2018, 05:04 PM   #24
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On Norcold refers the thermister works differently...and it took a long hard google search to find it!

On Norcold, you move the thermister to the left and down to make it colder.

However, in the Yuma, AZ heat where I live I couldn't move it far enough left or down to make it even luke warm in 110+ degrees.

Good thing I don't live in my 5'ver!
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Old 08-19-2018, 05:04 PM   #25
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Perhaps he bought privately, or inherited, or bought from someone who inherited. Not everyone gets a pdi and if not they have to research things in their own, which he/she is doing be asking on this board.
They bought a 2019 Wildwood so it's very likely new.
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Old 08-19-2018, 06:45 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by JohnD10 View Post
On Norcold refers the thermister works differently...and it took a long hard google search to find it!

On Norcold, you move the thermister to the left and down to make it colder.

However, in the Yuma, AZ heat where I live I couldn't move it far enough left or down to make it even luke warm in 110+ degrees.

Good thing I don't live in my 5'ver!

but the OP posted a dometic not a norcold
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:29 PM   #27
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but the OP posted a dometic not a norcold
I know...

I was just mentioning it because I'm sure there are lots of Norcold fridges out there, and apparently they operate a little differently.
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Old 08-20-2018, 09:46 AM   #28
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Keep the freezer as full as possible !!!
We pack ours as full as we can with Ice,,, leaving only enough room for our meat !!!
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:07 AM   #29
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This is what I use to monitor temperature:



https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00986.../dp/B004QJVU78
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:42 AM   #30
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This is what I use to monitor temperature:



https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00986.../dp/B004QJVU78
Nice System !!!
We just keep a small digital thermometer in both freezer & fridge !!!
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:32 PM   #31
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This is what I use to monitor temperature:



https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00986.../dp/B004QJVU78

That's really cool (no pun intended) and it's now on my "maybe some day list." Right now, I'm not willing to spend $24. If my freezer freezes water in an ice cube tray, my beer is cold in the fridge--I know it's working. The key is making sure that thermister (?) is as high up as it will go. It may slide down while on the road. If stuff starts freezing in the lower compartment, slide it down a little.
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Old 08-27-2018, 06:13 PM   #32
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fridge temp

This looks like my dometic. I had a similar problem in an older trailer and there is an orifice in the fridge burner that gets junked up. can be cleaned with acetone or finger nail polish remover, never a metallic object though
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Old 08-27-2018, 06:24 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
This is what I use to monitor temperature:



https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00986.../dp/B004QJVU78
Got that one as well. Works great with no guessing and no door open / closey. 8 - 10 hrs will do it assuming food is prechilled. Freezer cools first. Mine cools a bit faster on LPG.
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Old 08-27-2018, 07:23 PM   #34
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Here are a couple things we have personally observed and although some things were mentioned in this post, I'll go into a bit more detail. Getting the trailer as level as possible makes a big difference. The manual for our fridge says the trailer only needs to be "comfortably" level. Our previous TT gave numbers 3 degrees side to side (relative to fridge) and 6 degrees front to back. We find that if you can get it within 1 degree in each direction (we use a digital level), our experience is that the fridge/freezer will cool down much quicker.

We also have one of these in the fridge and it seemed to cut the cool down time about in half for us. Some day we may put the coil cooler fans in but for now, we're good to go. Also, We have found (and I've seen plenty of others mention this) the fridge seems to cool down faster on propane than on electric so when I am getting our TT ready for a trip I switch from auto to gas. I'll switch back to auto when we get to the CG.

Regarding the PDI, we've bought 2 TT's brand new in the past 10 years and neither one was very good in my opinion and neither mentioned anything other than the Auto vs. Gas setting of the fridge. Should we have asked more questions, certainly - but when you don't know what to ask, what do you ask? And in some cases, the things I did ask didn't get answered well or even correctly. That's why I love the forums - lot's of smart people that have been there & done that to help you get good answers!

Hope this helped - and happy camping!
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Old 08-27-2018, 07:28 PM   #35
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Is there suppose to be a tube attached? Mine lays in the tray
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Old 08-27-2018, 07:44 PM   #36
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Does anyone see the thermistor in the op's picture? He needs to correct that before anything else.
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Old 08-27-2018, 07:44 PM   #37
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I usually place a bowl of ice cubes in both the freezer and refrigerator when I power it up. This dramatically speeds up the cooling process. The freezer cools down so quickly that the cubes don't even melt. Forrest River Evo, std Dometic reefer.
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Old 08-27-2018, 08:21 PM   #38
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Make sure your door isn't warped, even slightly, or the seal is secure. if the seal isn't making good contact all the way around, the cold air will keep leaking out. I've had it happen.

Also, take a mirror, and from the outside after removing the refrigerator hatch /door, look up and look for obstructions. I have seen insulation installed from the factory, fall over preventing the unit from venting properly.

Your fridge needs... level, heat and vent to work properly.
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:04 PM   #39
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How I fixed my frig

I removed the freezer door. Took the gasket off the door and the Styrofoam out of the inside of the door. Reinstalled the freezer door. Freezer 17 degrees, frig 35 40 and I open it a lot.
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:15 PM   #40
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I removed the freezer door. Took the gasket off the door and the Styrofoam out of the inside of the door. Reinstalled the freezer door. Freezer 17 degrees, frig 35 40 and I open it a lot.
How do you consider a 17 degree freezer fixed? I would replace the styrofoam and gasket.
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