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Old 12-21-2019, 12:33 AM   #1
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Furnace Not Kicking On

Hello Everyone I am a newbie...i have a 2019 Coachmen 281RLDSLE...got it last year end of Oct. Furnace has been working fine until tonight. The blower comes on but the furnace never engages. The tank it was on ran out but the other is open & I cooked with it this morning.



It's bloody cold here in VA....I know it's late & I will have to go to bed soon but any help is greatly appreciated!


I am thankful for the previous help & I did hook up for the first time & moved in the dark. It was scary but I did it.
Thank you for your time!


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Ektar
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Old 12-21-2019, 01:41 AM   #2
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are you plugged in to 110 volts power? need full 12 volts to run furnace it is a power hog and will drain your battery fast.

did you turn furnace off and back on to reset furnace control board? may need to do this several times if you have air in the propane lines.

is the propane regulator auto change over or do you have to change to next tank?

Have all 3 stove burner lit and on high when you start the furnace to rule out propane regulator or hose. if burners go out or goes low you have a propane system problem.

Hope this helps Tim
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Old 12-21-2019, 11:03 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by TimVWulp View Post
are you plugged in to 110 volts power? need full 12 volts to run furnace it is a power hog and will drain your battery fast.

did you turn furnace off and back on to reset furnace control board? may need to do this several times if you have air in the propane lines.

is the propane regulator auto change over or do you have to change to next tank?

Have all 3 stove burner lit and on high when you start the furnace to rule out propane regulator or hose. if burners go out or goes low you have a propane system problem.

Hope this helps Tim


Hello From Oklahoma Tim and Dawn.
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Old 12-21-2019, 06:46 PM   #4
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Sorry I was gone all day...I am very thankful for the responses.
I am plugged in 30 amp since 4 Dec...the auto switch on propane tank is green & tank #2 is full. Normally the furnace will kick on then you here the heat kick in..

I tried turning the furnace off waiting & turning back on...both the a/c & furnace vents are kicking on & no warm air & the furnace shuts off in ~ 30 sec but the a/c vents are still on....
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Old 12-21-2019, 09:18 PM   #5
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It sounds like you may have the air conditioner fan set to HI/LOW at the thermostat. When you run the furnace set the air conditioner fan to AUTO in the thermostat. This will let the furnace fan only run on a call for heat.

Below is a link from the library at the top of this page in the green bar. It is a very good trouble shooting manual for suburban furnaces. The trouble shooting section starts around page 23 of the manual.

Make sure you do the three burner stove test when you try to start the furnace as this will eliminate any problems with the propane system.

There have been a lot of problems with the suburban control boards failing. If you find the control board has failed replace it with a dinosaur brand control board. This brand is a much better made control board for the furnace, refrigerator, hot water heater than the ones that came with the appliance.

Forest River Forums - Downloads - Furnace - Suburban Operation (Various models)

Hope this helps Tim

PS Hello from Michigan Greg and Denese
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Old 12-21-2019, 10:55 PM   #6
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Thank you for response...
The a/c & furnace are set to auto...
this may help 2019 Coachmen 281RDLSLE
Thanks
Cheers
Ektar


Dometic System
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Old 12-21-2019, 11:08 PM   #7
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Sorry for multiple post... yes 3 burner working fine...thank you!


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Old 12-21-2019, 11:49 PM   #8
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I had a similar issue and found that there is lower flow on many regulators if you don't change them over to point to the full tank. To boot my regulator had gone bad. My burners worked and so did my water heater but the water heater later began to sputter as well. This is what triggered the regulator change.

I swapped the regulator and everything worked. You would likely have to order that or find a camping store. A hardware store with a high btu grill regulator replacement could work in a pinch without the auto changover.

The other thing you can try is change the hoses (cross them or swap the tanks). I also had a pigtail go bad and that caused complete blockage of one tank. I swapped them until I could get a new one.

Sometimes the furnace would fire up and then go out. When the pigtail was bad it would just click away and never light and then turn the fan on high blowing cold air.

The other frequent issue is the sail switch on the furnace. I am not an HVAC guy so perhaps someone who really knows the furnace fire order can help diagnose that and tell you where it is located.

In the mean time with 30A you can get a 1500w space heater and another lower power or switchable one (less than 700w) and run them both. For mine I find the 1500w ceramic heater on the floor will heat the whole trailer until you can diagnose the furnace issue.

Stay warm and good luck!
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Old 12-22-2019, 11:11 AM   #9
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If gas, electric and thermostat check out, it has to be internal to the furnace. Could be a defective sail switch or some other safety. My furnace was DOA in the cold in VA, and I was fortunate to locate a dealer on the Peninsular who would work on it. If you don't want to move, you're going to need a mobile service.
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Old 12-22-2019, 06:09 PM   #10
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Sail switch

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If gas, electric and thermostat check out, it has to be internal to the furnace. Could be a defective sail switch or some other safety. My furnace was DOA in the cold in VA, and I was fortunate to locate a dealer on the Peninsular who would work on it. If you don't want to move, you're going to need a mobile service.
Everybody likes to pick on the sail switch. With some folks, I wonder if it's the only part they understand.

The sail switch detects that the blower has reached sufficient speed to purge the firebox and then turn on the gas and attempt ignition. If you hear the fan run, but never hear a click from the gas solenoid or the clicking sound of the igniter spark, it could be the sail switch. Just as easily, it could be a clogged intake vent (mud dauber bees are known to build nests in these vents), or a restriction in the ventilation system inside (e.g., someone has put carpets over the floor vents).

If the fan never runs at all, it is NOT the sail switch.

If the fan runs and you hear the gas solenoid click and the igniter spark click, it is NOT the sail switch.

Larry
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Old 12-22-2019, 06:40 PM   #11
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If the fan runs and you hear the gas solenoid click and the igniter spark click, it is NOT the sail switch.

Larry
If all three of these happen then focus on the gas supply. I had a similar problem with my gas BBQ when my TT was new. FR uses hose to supply it's gas appliances and on mine the hose to the BBQ had a major kink in it.

In the case of the furnace it could be as simple as something in a storage compartment has pinched off the supply line.

Then again, just because one "hears" a solenoid is it really opening the gas valve?

BTW, the "kink" in my gas line was underneath the TT where the main line from the regulator had a manifold that branched the lines out to all the gas appliances. The hose got pulled and because the fitting wasn't inline with the hose it kinked.
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Old 12-22-2019, 07:10 PM   #12
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Pull the fuse that powers the furnace. Wait for about a minute and replace it. The control board has a safety feature that after several failed attempts to light it goes into safe mode and needs a pwr reset. You can not accomplish this on some thermostats hence the fuse removal. If it tried to light after the tank ran out, it is most likely in safe mode.
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Old 12-22-2019, 07:36 PM   #13
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One moving part

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Then again, just because one "hears" a solenoid is it really opening the gas valve?
Pretty likely. That assembly has exactly one moving part. If you hear that part move, what else could be wrong with it.
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Old 12-22-2019, 08:07 PM   #14
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Pretty likely. That assembly has exactly one moving part. If you hear that part move, what else could be wrong with it.
Plugged with foreign material?
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Old 12-22-2019, 08:18 PM   #15
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Foreign material?

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Plugged with foreign material?
The regulator ought to stop anything big, in which case the range wouldn't work right. I suppose there could be a flaking hose downstream, but this is a 2019 unit which makes that unlikely.
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Old 12-23-2019, 06:25 AM   #16
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Let it run a little longer. Maybe the line ran empty and needs to bleed back through the furnace line. Sometimes that will take a while.
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Old 12-23-2019, 08:21 AM   #17
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Is the furnace even trying to ignite?? Next time you try to fire it up, have someone go outside by the furnace vent to see if they can hear the igniter clicking... If you donít hear that then your issue is likely something related to electric.
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