Furnace operation, back firing

A32Deuce · 12-19-2019, 01:04 PM

2012 SunSeeker, Suburban Furnance, extend a stay kit installed she new. Heater runs and puts out 130 degree air from vents then after about 5 minutes I hear a piping sound outside. You can hear it light and burn then goes off dumping propane the hole time then fires again and keeps doing this. Just started doing it last night. I have searched here, YouTube and the internet and can not find a cure for the issue. Temps in the low 30 range so heat is needed. Running like that burned through a 20 lb tank of propane in 4 hours. Help!

**ES_FR** · 12-19-2019, 01:31 PM

A32Deuce,

We would be happy to assist you with your 2012 Sunseeker. Because your ongoing satisfaction is very important to us, we invite you to contact Kary Katzenberger in our Customer service department through the following personalized and direct link: http://www.forestriverinc.com/Direct...23586587315036.

This direct link is provided for your convenience in order that we may resolve your concerns as quickly as possible. We will strive to respond to you within 24 hours of receiving your correspondence.

Respectfully,
Forest River

**Bama Rambler** · 12-19-2019, 02:18 PM

Most likely cause is a blocked or dirty burner orifice.
Spider webs are a very common cause of that behavior.

SeaDog · 12-19-2019, 02:21 PM

It sound like there is a problem with your flame proving circuit which the direct spark ignition is part of try cleaning the ignitor this is a common problem with household units. Just saw BR reply and also agree with him.

TitanMike · 12-19-2019, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeaDog

It sound like there is a problem with your flame proving circuit which the direct spark ignition is part of try cleaning the ignitor this is a common problem with household units. Just saw BR reply and also agree with him.

If only Suburban RV furnaces were as easy to access for service as household units

Can't speak for all but to get to any serviceable parts on mine I have to remove the furnace which requires removing kitchen drawers and a couple internal panels.

I keep my fingers crossed.

A32Deuce · 12-19-2019, 03:05 PM

Thank you. Sent.

A32Deuce · 12-19-2019, 03:06 PM

Clear.

A32Deuce · 12-19-2019, 03:12 PM

Mine is easy to get too. Remove a inlet vent cover, a panel, disconnect the propane line and pull out. Haven't done that yet till I can find something positive too look for or do. They sound like good ideas, but it happened in like a couple hours running. We have been gone since the Monday before thanksgiving and using the heat with no problem. That's why I think its not that simple. Maybe an hours thing!

A32Deuce · 12-19-2019, 04:42 PM

Up date. Mobile repair stopped and determined it was the unit propane regulator. Office at CG had a brand new same one. 5 minutes to swap out and all is back to normal. Less then $100 for service call and part.

**Bama Rambler** · 12-19-2019, 04:49 PM

Thanks for letting us know what it was. Did the serviceman say if it was low pressure or high?

A32Deuce · 12-19-2019, 05:02 PM

The built in regulator for a class C. Drops the built in tank pressure to low pressure. Took about 10 minutes to figure it out. The regulator is after my Extend a stay attachment. He thinks with the cold temps, moisture may have frozen and cracked it causing the heater to act funny.

**Bama Rambler** · 12-20-2019, 09:11 AM

That's interesting, and very good to know. I'll try to remember that as a possible cause.

Larry-NC · 12-20-2019, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitanMike

If only Suburban RV furnaces were as easy to access for service as household units

Can't speak for all but to get to any serviceable parts on mine I have to remove the furnace which requires removing kitchen drawers and a couple internal panels.

I keep my fingers crossed.

Hmm. I have only looked at a few units beyond our two, but in all of them, the entire furnace can be removed by removing the grille and front plenum cover, and disconnecting the propane. Less than 10 minutes. You leave the plenum and ducting in place and just pull the guts out.

Mike, can you post a picture or two, maybe after you take the grille off?

Larry-NC · 12-20-2019, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

Up date. Mobile repair stopped and determined it was the unit propane regulator. Office at CG had a brand new same one. 5 minutes to swap out and all is back to normal. Less then $100 for service call and part.

Not the first time for me. The expected life of these regulators is 10 years. Not surprised to find that your nine-year-old one died.

The first time I messed with a Suburban furnace I followed the steps in the service manual, except that I skipped the step about checking the pressure because I didn't have a gauge. After several hours (wasted), I built a manometer ($5 of parts and an hour of labor) and identified the problem as a failed regulator. I learned my lesson. I still have the manometer and I distrust the regulators.

There are lots of web articles and video on how to build a manometer.

MR.M · 12-20-2019, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Hmm. I have only looked at a few units beyond our two, but in all of them, the entire furnace can be removed by removing the grille and front plenum cover, and disconnecting the propane. Less than 10 minutes. You leave the plenum and ducting in place and just pull the guts out.

Mike, can you post a picture or two, maybe after you take the grille off?

It's great when they are like that but many are not and need to be removed from the inside . the only thing you will see on the out side is the combustion air in and exhaust out with no panel to remove .

Larry-NC · 12-20-2019, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR.M

It's great when they are like that but many are not and need to be removed from the inside . the only thing you will see on the out side is the combustion air in and exhaust out with no panel to remove .

Uhhh, Mr. M. I was indeed describing how you remove them from the inside. The only thing on the outside is that little 3" x 6" double vent.

It sounds like you've never removed one from the inside.

MR.M · 12-20-2019, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Uhhh, Mr. M. I was indeed describing how you remove them from the inside. The only thing on the outside is that little 3" x 6" double vent.

It sounds like you've never removed one from the inside.

Mis read thought you were talking about removing the one with the outside access. Now there's no need to be insulting as I've done more of these then you can count up to . Now it seems you haven't dealt with the setup's with the outside panels then you would know what i was talking about

pdqparalegal1 · 12-20-2019, 05:03 PM

Good place to get advise. Good suggestions. You may have noticed there are strong personalities on here. Even so, suggestions are good.
Play nice children 😊

Larry-NC · 12-20-2019, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR.M

Mis read thought you were talking about removing the one with the outside access. Now there's no need to be insulting as I've done more of these then you can count up to . Now it seems you haven't dealt with the setup's with the outside panels then you would know what i was talking about

I have indeed seen those; my friend Steve has one in his Park Model.

But I'm not clairvoyant. I was unable to figure out your error.

waybeck2018 · 12-20-2019, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdqparalegal1

Good place to get advise. Good suggestions. You may have noticed there are strong personalities on here. Even so, suggestions are good.
Play nice children 😊

X2 Play nice !!!

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