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Old 11-25-2021, 11:30 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by VWFridolin View Post
Hello All!! I have a 2006 Forrest River Surveyor 303. Having furnace issues. I have two full tanks of propane and the stove works fine. The thermostat will turn the heat on but it only blows cold air for serial minutes then shuts off. Not sure if I have a pilot light and where it would be to check it if so. We just bought camper to move into and got to get heat working. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
I had exact thing happen full propane and turns out it was the 12 volt battery had gone dead after 3 days of use. Make sure your battery is charged
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Old 11-25-2021, 11:34 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Interesting.
I've never seen the sail switch mounted within the combustion side of an R/V furnace.
What make/model was this?

Blowing compressed air in the exhaust chimney would never reach the sail switch as the combustion side of the blower and the room air side of the blower (where the sail switch is typically located) are isolated from each other.
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Indeed, it puzzled me too but it worked. Maybe just a coincidence.
Does the burner air intake draw from inside or outside?
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Old 11-25-2021, 11:53 PM   #43
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Furnace runs no heat

I had the exact same thing occur on my 5th. wheel. Found the problem to be a reset button on the furnace under the outside cover. For what ever reason, it had kicked. Had air blowing out but not warm. After a friend showed me the location of the reset, everything worked as it should.
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Old 11-26-2021, 12:07 AM   #44
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suburban heater

My Suburban heater worked find in June - then needed it when we went out west to Utah, Ariz, etc. in late Sept/early Oct. Didn't work - and we were no where near a place to find a tech to fix. Friend travelling with us is very handy, owned a vending machine repair business - willing to tackle anything. So, we took the heater out of the camper (disconnected the wires,, gas line, etc.). When I told the thermostat to turn on the heat (after setting the thermostat to AUTO for fan speed), the Suburban furnace blower would run, and then we'd hear a click, but no "whoosh" as you would expect to hear when the gas ignites. Then the blower would turn off.

So the click we were hearing was either the non-stuck solenoid, or the igniter - but no gas and so no heat, and the blower would turn off.

Looked for obstructions, sail valve working, etc. - all looked OK. Put it back in, still didn't work. At this point we were concerned that we'd have to use our Mr Buddy back-up heater.....and maybe abort the trip if that wasn't enough.

So, in for a penny, in for a pound we took the heater control section apart and, while doing so noticed that one of the two solenoids was stuck in a depressed position. A slight tap caused it to pop back up.

Those solenoids apparently control the gas flow, and if one doesn't work, no gas will flow. We put the unit back together and the heater worked fine. If you attempt this, be careful because there are gaskets in the unit, and you want to keep them in good shape as you take the unit apart. Good luck!
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Old 11-26-2021, 01:15 AM   #45
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Two possibilities I would check. If the heater comes on but won't heat the air, and then shuts down after a short period of time, The propane regulator on the bottle not putting out enough pressure so the heater won't open the solenoid for gas flow on the furnace. If the heater won't even turn on. Either the board on the heater or time for a new thermostat inside the trailer.
The propane regulator pressure has nothing to do with the gas solenoid. The gas solenoid is operated by the furnace circuit board.
The furnace blower starts up which is activated via the thermostat, so the thermostat is functioning.
Which leaves the last choice, which could possibly be a faulty circuit board.
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Old 11-26-2021, 10:35 AM   #46
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Make sure your battery disconnect is on and not off. I had the same problem and mine was off! Turn it back on and worked great.
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Old 11-26-2021, 11:37 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VWFridolin View Post
Hello All!! I have a 2006 Forrest River Surveyor 303. Having furnace issues. I have two full tanks of propane and the stove works fine. The thermostat will turn the heat on but it only blows cold air for serial minutes then shuts off. Not sure if I have a pilot light and where it would be to check it if so. We just bought camper to move into and got to get heat working. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
Turn your fan setting to 'Auto'. That fixed the exact problem you're having on my unit.
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Old 11-26-2021, 11:50 AM   #48
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Sail Switch

We had the same problem when we bought our "new to us" 2008 Wilderness. When I took it apart, I found the sail switch has some lint trapped in it that was keeping the circuit open. I cleaned it, put it back together and it's worked fine ever since.
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:41 PM   #49
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Just so you know

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Originally Posted by Frierson View Post
I am not sure if anyone has mentioned this so far or not, if so I apologize.
In our Cherokee, there is a panel next to the door above the counter to check the Fresh Water, Grey Water and Black Water Tanks, at the bottom is a switch for "Heat" and a switch for "Pump". If you have this panel the Heat Switch may need to be turned on for your furnance to light. We have had our camper for 2-1/2 years, only used the furnace once. Good luck.
Just so you know, the “Heat” switch you mention is for propane heat for the hot water tank. “Pump” is for the water pump in the fresh water system from the onboard fresh water supply.
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:49 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VWFridolin View Post
Hello All!! I have a 2006 Forrest River Surveyor 303. Having furnace issues. I have two full tanks of propane and the stove works fine. The thermostat will turn the heat on but it only blows cold air for serial minutes then shuts off. Not sure if I have a pilot light and where it would be to check it if so. We just bought camper to move into and got to get heat working. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
I found a "reset" button on mine. Yes, mine is a newer model, but it might worth a shot. The reset was located behind a removable panel at the rear of the trailer...
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Old 11-26-2021, 10:03 PM   #51
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I haven't read every post that has been made on thread but if you go to YouTube and search for MyRVWorks, he has several videos on troubleshooting furnaces.
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Old 11-27-2021, 05:43 PM   #52
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My 2021 Greywolf had a similar symptom

Our blower ran, but no heat.
Found the aluminum flexible line for the back 2/3rds of the trailer had been fastened with two self tapping screws.
It tore and uncoiled not allowed pressure (sail) switch to make. I trimmed it as much as possible then….
I used some aluminum tape for a temporary fix.
Luckily there was a louvered cover in front of furnace so access was good.
All temps good after that.
Nights have been in upper 20’s so I was thankful.
Hope this helps others!
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Old 11-27-2021, 05:51 PM   #53
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It's been a week since OP posted last. Either fixed it or gave up on us.
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Old 11-27-2021, 06:02 PM   #54
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It's been a week since OP posted last. Either fixed it or gave up on us.
Yep. Hasn't even logged in since 11-20-2021 04:59 PM
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Old 12-03-2021, 11:11 AM   #55
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Have you checked the stove to make sure you are getting gas flow? My regulator failed and the stove would light and then immediately go out. Replacing the regulator solved that one. Another time I had to pull the furnace and get the trash out of the nozzle to get gas flow. Can you hear the ignitor sparking?
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Old 12-06-2021, 02:58 PM   #56
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Furnace Runs No Heat

I have a 2012 Windjammer 3008W equipped with a suburban model nt 30-sp. When I turn on the thermostat, it clicks and the blower activates and blows out cold air. I pulled the furnace out, checked the sail switch that was fine. I replaced the high limit switch. Before re-installing the furnace, I tested the system by connecting to an external 12 power source, everything operated properly. When I plugged the furnace into the rv connector, the fan blows but the system doesn't complete the cycles.

I have tested the voltage at the rv's power connector. The red (hot wire) is producing 13v. The blue (thermostat return wire) produces 13v. When connected to the furnace and turned on, the red (hot wire) indicates 12v whereas the blue (thermostat return wire) only produces .5 to .7v.

I thought the problem could be the furnace control module but it works fine when connected to the 12v external power source.

When connected to the rv power plug, the thermostat does turn the furnace activate the blower but nothing else.

All visible wiring in the rv appears to be well connected and continuity test doesn't suggest any shortages.

Could this be a thermostat issue?
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Old 12-06-2021, 03:36 PM   #57
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Do you hear the ignitor sparking? On mine, spark is independent of the high limit switch, which deactivates the gas solenoid valve. Check the limit switches with an ohmmeter, they all should be 0 ohms. Are you saying the heater works (warms up) when out? 12v on the gas solenoid? If you have spark and the limit switches check out, you might want want to make sure the gas nozzle isn't stopped up. That was what my problem was.
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Old 12-06-2021, 03:57 PM   #58
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If it runs fine...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mdcoxsr View Post
I have a 2012 Windjammer 3008W equipped with a suburban model nt 30-sp. When I turn on the thermostat, it clicks and the blower activates and blows out cold air. I pulled the furnace out, checked the sail switch that was fine. I replaced the high limit switch. Before re-installing the furnace, I tested the system by connecting to an external 12 power source, everything operated properly. When I plugged the furnace into the rv connector, the fan blows but the system doesn't complete the cycles.

I have tested the voltage at the rv's power connector. The red (hot wire) is producing 13v. The blue (thermostat return wire) produces 13v. When connected to the furnace and turned on, the red (hot wire) indicates 12v whereas the blue (thermostat return wire) only produces .5 to .7v.

I thought the problem could be the furnace control module but it works fine when connected to the 12v external power source.

When connected to the rv power plug, the thermostat does turn the furnace activate the blower but nothing else.

All visible wiring in the rv appears to be well connected and continuity test doesn't suggest any shortages.

Could this be a thermostat issue?
If it runs fine with on the bench--or installed in the housing but with the plenum cover left off--the problem is likely caused by failure of the propane regulator at the tanks. The furnaces are very fussy about the gas-air mixture. When the regulator fails, the pressure rises a little bit (in my case from 11" w.c. to 14" w.c.) and it won't ignite when the unit is fully closed up. The range and water heater tolerated this problem, but not the furnace.
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Old 12-06-2021, 04:38 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by csterl01 View Post
Do you hear the ignitor sparking? On mine, spark is independent of the high limit switch, which deactivates the gas solenoid valve. Check the limit switches with an ohmmeter, they all should be 0 ohms. Are you saying the heater works (warms up) when out? 12v on the gas solenoid? If you have spark and the limit switches check out, you might want want to make sure the gas nozzle isn't stopped up. That was what my problem was.
Gas flow is fine, both the stove & hot water heater functions properly. The gas solenoid functions properly when bench tested. The failure occurs when the unit is connected to the rv power connector.
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Old 12-06-2021, 04:44 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by csterl01 View Post
Have you checked the stove to make sure you are getting gas flow? My regulator failed and the stove would light and then immediately go out. Replacing the regulator solved that one. Another time I had to pull the furnace and get the trash out of the nozzle to get gas flow. Can you hear the ignitor sparking?
The gas regulator appears to be functioning properly. All the other gas appliances operate. There's no trash in the intake or exhaust. Gas solenoid functions properly when bench tested, including the spark ignitor. The problem occurs when I reconnect the unit to the camper. At that point the thermostat return wire drops voltage to below 1v.
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