Gas furnace and stove not working; refrigerator and water heater are fine.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Just following along since you are getting good advice but I see something in your last photo that I question. On your switch-over regulator, I see BOTH red and green on the indicator.

I have never seen that before. It should be red or green but not both.

I realize some things work and others seem to have no gas at all but I'd make sure the supply point/regulator is working correctly before chasing other gremlins.

Also, I swear we had a past thread about that gas manifold being bad on another R/V a year or so ago but I can't seem to find it.

5picker, I believe your right. IIRC, the poster said there was a splinter of wood which was small enough to travel through the hose but large enough to get stuck at the sharp 90* hole in the manifold then other smaller debris built up behind it.


Another, but not very likely, culprit because of the less than 1psi pressure used for LPG appliances could be poorly prepared or crimped hose fitting could be letting gas flow between the inner and subsequent layers of the hose therefore restricting the flow. This problem is more common with hydraulic hoses where the pressures are much higher. What also makes this unlikely, but not impossible, is with OP's manifold it would involve the two different hoses running to the appliances he's having problems with.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

5picker, I believe your right. IIRC, the poster said there was a splinter of wood which was small enough to travel through the hose but large enough to get stuck at the sharp 90* hole in the manifold then other smaller debris built up behind it.


Another, but not very likely, culprit because of the less than 1psi pressure used for LPG appliances could be poorly prepared or crimped hose fitting could be letting gas flow between the inner and subsequent layers of the hose therefore restricting the flow. This problem is more common with hydraulic hoses where the pressures are much higher. What also makes this unlikely, but not impossible, is with OP's manifold it would involve the two different hoses running to the appliances he's having problems with.

The only hose that will easily come off the manifold is the hose to the quick-release outlet.

My thought, posted yesterday, was to remove that hose and see whether debris could be removed with hooks, small tools, or by briefly turning the gas on.

Today's inspiration is that if that doesn't work, the OP could then remove the hose at the regulator and shoot some compressed air in while the downstream hose remains disconnected.. That should clear the entire manifold.

OP, please let us know what you find.

[Dwilcox]

I had a wood chip in the gas line to my furnace. Found it when I was trouble shooting a bad control board. Big chip but allowed enough gas to pass through.

[Life Without Whine]

Hope you got some heat running .... this thread made me really laugh: the first year & first time out cold camping. 5 pm & I go to cook dinner on stove & nothing. DH keeps telling me I'm doing something wrong that it should light, bleh, bleh, bleh...
After about 30 minutes of fussing at me he realizes BOTH of the tanks are empty ... sent him off & told him not to return without some propane cause we were in for a cold night. Lucky for him 10 miles away the ACE hardware was just closing & decided to be nice to let him get those filled or he would have been driving a very long time.... Wasn't too cold a night after all

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Today's inspiration is that if that doesn't work, the OP could then remove the hose at the regulator and shoot some compressed air in while the downstream hose remains disconnected.. That should clear the entire manifold.

I suggest trying to this as well. Just make sure you aren’t trying to push any of that air through any regulators.

Bruce

[Ggumberg]

Great point. Unsure if there are any “downstream” regulators. Space heater and dry camping has gotten us through the days we wanted to salvage on the trip. Headed to warmer climate to see about repairs and to remove external port to check for blockage.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by nomad297

I suggest trying to this as well. Just make sure you aren’t trying to push any of that air through any regulators.

Bruce

The only downstream regulator should be the one inside the range, usually alongside the burners. The furnace and water heater don't utilize one.

Here's a picture of two Atwood ranges. The regulator is Item 9 in both pictures. Dometics are similar except the regulator is located at the right front.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

The only downstream regulator should be the one inside the range, usually alongside the burners. The furnace and water heater don't utilize one.

Here's a picture of two Atwood ranges. The regulator is Item 9 in both pictures. Dometics are similar except the regulator is located at the right front.

I know.

Mine was just a cautionary statement. You never know what somebody else is going to do.

Bruce

[ysidive]

Originally Posted by Life Without Whine

Hope you got some heat running .... this thread made me really laugh: the first year & first time out cold camping. 5 pm & I go to cook dinner on stove & nothing. DH keeps telling me I'm doing something wrong that it should light, bleh, bleh, bleh...
After about 30 minutes of fussing at me he realizes BOTH of the tanks are empty ... sent him off & told him not to return without some propane cause we were in for a cold night. Lucky for him 10 miles away the ACE hardware was just closing & decided to be nice to let him get those filled or he would have been driving a very long time.... Wasn't too cold a night after all

You could have just had a little extra serving of your Delicious Irish Coffee....Missed it this year . Crazy coronavirus........

[Ggumberg]

Hey all. Tapped the regulator under the stove and it fired up on the first try. Furnace is still out of commission. Finally reached both Coachmen and Dometic after the holiday weekend. Repairs will be made....but no one will schedule with us until February. It’s a real shame; 2 week old unit. Word is that the sail switch goes quickly/often on these Dometics. We shall see.

[Reverse_snowbird]

The good news is that you got the stove working. Sorry you've got to wait. As backed up as rv dealers seem to be, February might be a quick turnaround. You might be able to get a mobile mechanic out there under warranty.
Please keep us posted on what you've found.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Ggumberg

Hey all. Tapped the regulator under the stove and it fired up on the first try. Furnace is still out of commission. Finally reached both Coachmen and Dometic after the holiday weekend. Repairs will be made....but no one will schedule with us until February. It’s a real shame; 2 week old unit. Word is that the sail switch goes quickly/often on these Dometics. We shall see.

Nothing like a little percussive maintenance.

I don't have any experience with Dometic furnaces. Sail switch failure is pretty rare on Suburbans. On a Suburban, the symptom of sail switch failure is that the fan will run for several seconds, but you will NOT hear the gas solenoid open (clunk), or the click-click-click of spark ignition attempts.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Nothing like a little percussive maintenance.

I don't have any experience with Dometic furnaces. Sail switch failure is pretty rare on Suburbans. On a Suburban, the symptom of sail switch failure is that the fan will run for several seconds, but you will NOT hear the gas solenoid open (clunk), or the click-click-click of spark ignition attempts.

I agree with Larry... while I've seen a couple... sail switch failures are not all that common. I've owned R/Vs where the furnace has lit thousands of times with no failures.

I also agree a mobile mechanic is usually a quicker turn around than back to a dealer.

[Dirtmaster]

Originally Posted by Ggumberg

Hello. Cold and stuck, attempting to figure this out. Furnace stopped working last night; blower and thermostat work but it appears there’s no gas flow to ignite. Troubleshooting found that the stove has no gas flow either. However, the water heater and refrigerator work on gas fine. No change overnight. No issue with LP detector; gas lines and splitter all appear intact and untouched underneath the trailer. The whole unit is only two weeks old, one propane tank full the other half full. Being Christmas, hoping we can source insight as we wait X days for service.... 2021 213RDS Apex nano. Thanks.

Just a thought, but are you running on batteries and if so are they fully charged. This shouldn’t affect the stove, but low voltage can cause the furnace fan to run slow. The fan must be running “briskly” in order for the internal sail switch to turn on allowing gas to flow. It’s a safety feature to prevent the accumulation of propane in the heater. If fan is running but you don’t hear the gas valve click open and the igniter start “ticking” this may be one of your problems. (I’ve had to jumper to the tow vehicle when battery died. If very low battery the CO monitor will start chirping - unless prior owner disconnected it)

[Mrrobalo]

This too might be a long shot . I know the new 20 lb cylinders have a safety set up in the valves. If you left a grill on high and ran out of gas you then you hook up the new tank . You open the valve quickly the rush of gas will check the gas valve and only a little bit of pressure will go through the lines. To reset the small tanks remove from bracket turn upside down and give it a quick hit on the frame. Turn it upright reattach it. Make sure ALL Appliances are off and slowly open one of the valves all the way. Try to turn on the furnace as it uses the most gas. I’ve noticed this on tanks I’ve swapped out more than the ones I refill. I actually owned a propane company in the past right before the new valves came out.
Good luck hope you get it worked out.

[ClarkeD]

Since the fittings at the splitter don't swivel, this would likely be a last resort diagnostic but worth a try.
Disconnect one of the hoses that goes to one item that is working and another hose that is not working and reconnect them to the opposite ports.
If the item that originally worked no longer works, you know it's the splitter.

[Bamamax]

Originally Posted by Ggumberg

Hello. Cold and stuck, attempting to figure this out. Furnace stopped working last night; blower and thermostat work but it appears there’s no gas flow to ignite. Troubleshooting found that the stove has no gas flow either. However, the water heater and refrigerator work on gas fine. No change overnight. No issue with LP detector; gas lines and splitter all appear intact and untouched underneath the trailer. The whole unit is only two weeks old, one propane tank full the other half full. Being Christmas, hoping we can source insight as we wait X days for service.... 2021 213RDS Apex nano. Thanks.

I have scrolled through the reply’s and have not seen an obvious problem mentioned.
Did you run a wire brush through the pilot tube on the furnace ? ( long copper tube ). Most likely there is a insect (spider) nest in the tube. This will not let the air flow needed for the burner to light.
If you have a felixaeble small wire you can run it thru with out taking the pipe off. ( you can try compressed air but usually a brush is needed )
Try this before you wait weeks for service

[FirstFiver]

Originally Posted by ClarkeD

Since the fittings at the splitter don't swivel, this would likely be a last resort diagnostic but worth a try.
Disconnect one of the hoses that goes to one item that is working and another hose that is not working and reconnect them to the opposite ports.
If the item that originally worked no longer works, you know it's the splitter.

My thought too.
You beat me to it.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Bamamax

I have scrolled through the reply’s and have not seen an obvious problem mentioned.
Did you run a wire brush through the pilot tube on the furnace ? ( long copper tube ). Most likely there is a insect (spider) nest in the tube. This will not let the air flow needed for the burner to light.
If you have a felixaeble small wire you can run it thru with out taking the pipe off. ( you can try compressed air but usually a brush is needed )
Try this before you wait weeks for service

As per the title of the thread... the gas stove and furnace do not work. The refrigerator and water heater are fine.

Your suggestion of running a brush through the burner tube is good for those with water heater issues but really doesn't pertain here as there is no way to run a brush through the furnace burner.

[Red Roadrunner]

Check your orifice on stove and heater make sure they are for proper appliance, (LPG) and are clear of debris, your appliance may be suffering from the improper amount of fuel flow. Did I see question answered, Do you hear clicking sound when attempting to light the appliances that will not light? You may have in line fuse needs replaced if the answer is no. We had a splitter issue on the tank, it would not switch over to other tank. We had to move the empty tank and replace with full tank manually, could not just switch the lines . Replaced regulator, nope,still not working, then noticed one hose different than other hose, it 's orifice in the end of hose was too small, it was for a grill not an RV.Gas flow was restricted They should be color coded but not all manufactures do that. The manf. of your TT may have used wrong hose or orifice.