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Old 10-19-2021, 11:43 PM   #1
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Gas Grill less hot

Our Suburban gas grill suddenly is significantly less hot than it was when new even when turned fully on.
I am interested in ideas to troubleshoot if there is a blockage in the grill or in the line connected to our Travel Trailer's propane system.
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Old 10-20-2021, 12:57 AM   #2
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First I would make sure LP tank is full. Second, hook a BBQ to your Propane tanks externally and see if it works OK. This will check the regulator on the RV LPG tank. Or take your bbq regulator and swap it to test the regulator. Also check the gas lines with soap for leaks with the gas turned on.
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Old 10-20-2021, 06:27 AM   #3
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Spiders are attracted to the smell of gas and often times build nests in the burner tubes which can cause your grill to run cold. Check out this article https://www.grillersspot.com/theres-...r-in-my-grill/
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Old 10-20-2021, 01:11 PM   #4
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I would try this:
Ensure all burners are off.
Close the tank valve.
Open tank valve very slowly.
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Old 10-20-2021, 02:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertsmusings View Post
Our Suburban gas grill suddenly is significantly less hot than it was when new even when turned fully on.
I am interested in ideas to troubleshoot if there is a blockage in the grill or in the line connected to our Travel Trailer's propane system.
Remove and clean the orifice that's part of the temp control knob. The orifice can get crudded up and only pass a portion of the propane it's intended to. The orifice projects into the open end of the burner tube, but it does not attach. Simply remove the flame control knob and then remove the orifice from the knob...very easy.

I had one get partially blocked with what appeared to be the "plumber's putty" used on the threads. It could also have been a small piece of teflon tape. At any rate, I used my compressor and blow gun, and a chunk of something popped out...large enough to pick it up and examine it. Then I eyeballed it with a light benind it to look at the orifice opening, and it was clean as a whistle. I re-installed it with the proper (propane) teflon tape, and the grill worked better than it ever had.

Also, while you're at it, use one of the steel grill cleaning brushes to gently clean the burner tube(s). Sometimes some of the holes get gunked up with drippings and such. Brush thoroughly but gently, then eyeball all the flame holes to make sure they are clean and "round"...no rust or crud partially blocking them.
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Old 10-20-2021, 03:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip12 View Post
I would try this:
Ensure all burners are off.
Close the tank valve.
Open tank valve very slowly.
x2 Propane tanks valves are now equipped to severely restrict flow of gas if you leave burner valve on and open propane tank valve or if you open valve too quickly. Lots of people get caught on this .
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Old 10-20-2021, 04:25 PM   #7
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Missing a step

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip12 View Post
I would try this:
Ensure all burners are off.
Close the tank valve.
Open tank valve very slowly.
Skip, good answer but you missed a step
Ensure all burners are off.
Close the tank valve.
Relieve all pressure from the line by unscrewing the line from the tank for 30 seconds and then putting it back on.
Open tank valve very slowly

The tanks contain a protective device that limits gas flow if the flow rate is too high, in case a hose breaks or is cut. When you open the gas into a non-pressurized line, that device trips. The sequence to prevent future occurrences is:
  • Leave the grill connected to the tank if possible
  • Turn on the tank first, then the grill
  • Turn off the grill first, then the tank
This ensures that the grill is always opened/closed to a pressurized hose. That permits less flow than to an unpressurized hose, reducing the likelihood of tripping the gas flow limiter.
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Old 10-20-2021, 07:04 PM   #8
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I agree with Caribo Camper.
To avoid limit switch problems, When cooking is completed, I turn the supply valve off and let the excess LP in the lines burn out, then turn off grill valves. That way the limit valve does not see an excess of LP needed to charge the lines when the supply valve is turned on for the next cooking.

I even use that process at home with my big Weber grill and have not had any problems. If one of the burner valves is not completely shut off, the limit valve severely reduces pressure for safety. You have to start all over to clear the lines before turning the supply line (or LP tank) valve back on.

Hope that helps.
Happy Camping.
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Old 10-20-2021, 09:07 PM   #9
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Thank you one an all for the lessons on propane.

I disconnected the line between the grill and the trailer's LP system. Shook it and the grill hoping to dislodge anything that might have gotten in the line. Used a bulb syringe to blow and suck on the inlet to the regulator. Removing the control orifice on this unit appeared to necessitate moving more than the knob. I inspected what I could readily see and all looked clean and round. After carefully reconnecting everything the flame looks even and rises about an inch above the burner.

Coincidently the regulator on the propane bottles shifted today from the primary to the secondary tank. I think that is merely a coincidence since the stove and refrigerator continue to work well.

I am optimistic that pancakes will cook well tomorrow morning.
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Old 10-20-2021, 09:28 PM   #10
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Wait a minute

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertsmusings View Post
Coincidently the regulator on the propane bottles shifted today from the primary to the secondary tank. I think that is merely a coincidence since the stove and refrigerator continue to work well.
I think not. There is one brand of regulator--I forget which one--that reduces the pressure on an automatic cutover to alert you to the fact that a tank is empty. You may be ignoring this warning.

If that's it, please post the brand of the regulator here when you report success, to remind me which one it is.
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Old 10-21-2021, 08:57 AM   #11
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I wondered about the regulator causing my problem. However my issue began several days before the regulator switched. I still have my regulator pointing towards the empty tank and all was fine this morning.
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Old 10-21-2021, 09:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertsmusings View Post
Thank you one an all for the lessons on propane.


Coincidently the regulator on the propane bottles shifted today from the primary to the secondary tank. I think that is merely a coincidence since the stove and refrigerator continue to work well.

When the propane fail-over valve is on the primary bottle it will have 210,000 BTU/hr capacity, but when it fails over to the Reserve cylinder it will only have 130,000 BTU/hr capacity. So yes you can see a difference in gas output
Here is one where I got my data, but I thought they all were like that.


I know my Open range had a different regulator the heat output would go down when the tank switched over. in fact on that RV it had four 20lb bottle, two on each side and used Two fail over regulators. the heat seemed to work better when Both regulators were turned on.
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