HELP: Leaking LP Regulator

[E.S.P.]

Hi All,

I went out to our 5th wheel this afternoon to get it ready for this weekend's trip. Turned on the 2 propane tank valves as usual to get the refrig started. The curb-side tank was OK. When I turned on the street-side tank, I was getting a hissing sound from the red gas-flo regulator inside the compartment. Propane gas was leaking from the vent hole on the regulator. Its never done this before. Is my regulator broken or is there some other problem I should be aware of? Note, my tanks are around 1/2 full. If my regulator needs replacing, where can I buy one (Model GR-618)? I looked online and only found the product manufacturers website, but no way to purchase.

Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!

[E.S.P.]

Talked with my dealer and they believe the internal diaphram is bad and I need to replace the regulator. The camper is an '07MY and we purchased it brand new in '09. I can't believe that an LP regulator would go bad after such a short time of use. Its a special order part through the dealer with Rockwood. Its only $18 to replace and I need it for an upcoming trip.

Has anyone else experienced similar problems with their high pressure regulators?

[NWJeeper]

Ours went bad within 2 years due to poor mounting. Ours actually broke in between the two stages allowing the leak. LP regulators are a common item and should be in stock at almost any RV dealer or supplier. Even some hardware parts stores stock them so to have your dealer say they have to order it is a bit suspect. Perhaps they were just out of them. They are not "special" and they are not specific to model.

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by NWJeeper

They are not "special" and they are not specific to model.

What HE said!
Get a new one and go camping!

[Willis]

Yes, very easy to replace. Only caution is to get some pipe dope that is rated for high-pressure gas applications. That should be available at any home improvement store for less than $5.

I would also carefully inspect any rubber hoses and if they are showing any age at all, this would be a good time to replace them since you are disconnecting everything anyway.

[RonGilbert]

I have the same problem with my high pressure regulator GR-618 and my 5th wheel is a 2008. I went to two RV Parts stores and neither had a 18PSI. They could not even order the GR 618 or an 18PSI. They do have a 10 PSI but is that sufficient?

[E.S.P.]

Originally Posted by RonGilbert

I have the same problem with my high pressure regulator GR-618 and my 5th wheel is a 2008. I went to two RV Parts stores and neither had a 18PSI. They could not even order the GR 618 or an 18PSI. They do have a 10 PSI but is that sufficient?

RonGilbert,

I'm not surprised about the availability of the GR 618. First, contrary to what others have stated here, these high pressure (HP) regulators are not easy to find (not to be confused with auto-changing 2-stage regulators that are available everywhere). I ended up getting my replacement through my Rockwood dealer. Could only special order directly with Forest River as Gas-Flo is the only company that makes and supplies these directly to them. Also note, the GR 618 is no longer used on these campers, they sent me a GR 630 as the replacement. Its the same regulator, just factory set for 30 psi output instead of 18 psi. I don't know the reasoning why FR changed the regulator output, but to answer your question, 10 psi might be too low since they increased it now to 30 psi. Your local FR dealer should be able to get one for you.

As an update, I discoverd that my leaking HP regulator was not the problem, but rather a symptom of a different problem. I installed the new GR 630, but then no gas would flow. After trial and error of replacing the pigtail, verifying my tank valve was operating properly, and verifying the tank was not overfilled, I discovered that the long gas line that runs from the HP regulator across the trailer to the auto 2-stage regulator had a tripped check valve that wouldn't reset (go figure ). I was able to release the check valve (may have disabled it in the open position with a little force ) and bingo, gas is flowing at last. It appeared that liquid LP somehow got into the long line and damaged the HP regulator, so it needed to be replaced. I have eliminated the leak and verified my 2-stage regulator operation by cycling the tanks on and off while the stove burner was lit. The auto change-over operation works as it should and propane does not vent from the new GR 630. I do plan on replacing the long line with the bad check valve soon. Seems that these check valves inside the propane lines are nothing but trouble for everyone; perhaps a poor design from the LP industry. Be cautious that you don't have a similar problem like mine so that you don't damage the new HP regulator.

[NWJeeper]

Originally Posted by E.S.P.

First, contrary to what others have stated here, these high pressure (HP) regulators are not easy to find (not to be confused with auto-changing 2-stage regulators that are available everywhere).

Just to be clear the reason you were having so much trouble finding a regulator is because you were trying to find a SPECIFIC make and model. This was unnecessary as stated by earlier posts as ALL high pressure regulators are close to the same and will do the same function so it doesn't matter what brand you buy. Almost every RV store I have walked into including many good hardware stores have 2-stage and or single stage high pressure regulators on the shelf.

Hopefully those that may read this thread in the future will not be confused by this distinction if they are in need of a regulator. Call around or go online, HP regulators are all over the place, just don't get stuck thinking you have to have an exact make and model as what you have.

When ours went bad the local RV parts store had a much better one on the shelf than our stock unit and it was only $23. I have even seen high pressure regulators at our local beer brewing supply store, the same as used in RVs.

[E.S.P.]

Originally Posted by NWJeeper

Just to be clear the reason you were having so much trouble finding a regulator is because you were trying to find a SPECIFIC make and model. This was unnecessary as stated by earlier posts as ALL high pressure regulators are close to the same and will do the same function so it doesn't matter what brand you buy.

How crucial then is the specific output of this regulator? I did find other regulators, just not the same output pressure. What factors are involved when deciding a 30 psi output regulator vs a 18 or 10 psi? My assumption was that I needed to match the factory original output pressure.

[NWJeeper]

Originally Posted by E.S.P.

How crucial then is the specific output of this regulator? I did find other regulators, just not the same output pressure. What factors are involved when deciding a 30 psi output regulator vs a 18 or 10 psi? My assumption was that I needed to match the factory original output pressure.

A 10 psi regulator is a low pressure regulator not HP, that would be the difference. A few pounds high or low is not going to cause everything to stop working. RVs all use the same basic regulators although they may be sourced from different manufacturers. A builder (Winnebago, FR, Fleetwood) will buy from the supplier who gives them the best deal from year to year so even a year older or newer RV identical to yours may have a different brand regulator. This is why it is pointless to try and match the exact brand and model number. If you call the local RV parts store and ask for a "two stage regulator" or a "high pressure LP regulator" what they stock for RVs will work, doesn't matter the brand or model.

Our local RV parts store in our small podunk town here had single stage, dual stage, low pressure, high pressure and automatic change over regulators on their shelf to fit any RV from towables to class A's.

One thing I did make sure of what NOT to use the same brand as what FR had used as it was a cheap piece of crap. The two stages were not a solid unit housing but two separate regulators plugged together and crimped. The union between the two failed and allowed the leak on our rig. Lost a whole tank of propane into our garage in one night! No way did I want another one of those. I bought a better dual stage regulator to replace the factory original at the supplier for $23

Just because it is what the factory used does not mean it is the best quality. That is why I look for quality first over trying to replace exactly what the factory used.

[Dodge Guy]

I replaced mine last year due to the exact same issue. mine is an 07, but we bought it in Jul. 06.

[Gabesgdson]

Yes the 18 psi regulator is difficult to locate; however if you use a 10 psi regulator for the single stage prior to the dual stage regulator it may impair the ability to have heat and propane heated hot water at the same time, when pulling from that bottle.

The 10 will work safely if in a pinch till an 18 psi regulator can be located.
BTW use the yellow tape, it holds up better to hydrocarbons than the white.

[scribe]

My factory installed Fairview regulator lasted apparently a whole 20 minutes with the 20,000 btu furnace on. Then it started to whistle like a banshee and the indicator showed red as if the tank was empty or an obstruction in the gas flow from the tank to the regulator.


Long story short, after much mental gymnastics I took my new TT back to the dealer and they upgraded my regulator from the factory-installed Fairview to a supposedly better quality Olympia. No more whistling and LP system is now working fine but switchover happened only last week so too soon to say the patient is definitely cured...however, I think I would agree with whoever it was that posted on here saying factory installed regulators are cheap "crap"...The Fairview sells for $19.99 retail while the Olympia is suppedley a $60 unit. Both do the same work, but I guess the more expensive one has a built-in obsolescence of more than 20 minutes... (take a close look at where each was built too; that may be a clue).

As for the sealing tape, the Fairview had white tape but now they used yellow tape on the new regulator. Installer even said that the white tape is illegal now because it is has failed too often.

[jutojohn]

you need a new one

[tb410]

I am having the same problem with the replacement GR 630 regulator, that I had with the old one. Gas leaks thru the hole on the regulator. The new one only worked for about a year. Can you explain in more detail how you were able to open the stuck check valve and exactly where in the line it was located? I am thinking my problem may be the same thing you discovered.