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Old 12-19-2018, 03:35 PM   #21
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Has the P&T (relief) valve opened when it was heating on propane?
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Old 12-19-2018, 03:45 PM   #22
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It dripped once as water got too hot to touch.
I lifted the lever to remove any scale... this last try, water got too hot to touch and no drips. Maybe I should replace the relief valve? I have a replacement... then try again to see if I just quit too soon.... and yes, I need to get a thermometer to measure water temperature.
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Old 12-19-2018, 04:32 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ArmyAV8R View Post
5Picker, thank you. So if I pull either wire from the right hand 12V propane side and the flame goes out, itís likely the board.
So then Iíd pull the heater out and be able to reach the board on the tank...?
Thanks for the pics. As 5picker suggested, i would try to start it up on propane, then pull one of the red wires to the thermostat assembly. If the propane then goes off ( which is the same as the thermostat(s) properly opening and cutting power to the board), then I would spend my time looking at the thermostat assembly/mounting.

If the flame does NOT go off, then there would seem be some kind of secondary 12 volt power getting to the board.

The way the thermostat assembly works is the bottom one opens when the tank/water gets to 130 degrees. The top hi-limit thermostat would stay closed. Once the water tank/temp drops low enough, then the bottom thermostat closes, thus turning back on power to the board...up until it all reaches 130 degrees again.

However should the tank/water get to (IIRC) 165 degrees then the hi-limit/ECO opens shutting off power to the board.

This ECO(Emergency Cut Off)/hi-limit thermostat is a backup safety should the bottom thermostat fail, and keeps you from getting too scalded should the bottom one fail. If the ECO trips, it has to be manually reset, which is that button on top. The bottom and top thermostats are connected via that small thin fusible link you see between them. This will burn out like a fuse, and protects the wiring.

If you water heater is not cutting off at 130 degrees then it should at 165. If both thermostats are faulty (which is kinda weird) that would cause that. It's also why I'm wondering if there is a mounting problem and the sensors on the backs of the thermostats are not correct.
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:11 PM   #24
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I see a shadow from underneath his TS plate and a lot of rust. I don't think the TS is making good contact with the tank. One might think the mounting bolt would be sufficient for heat transfer but the mounting plate is isolated from the TS's. He needs to pull the TS and put a bow in the TS plate and get rid of the rust (insulator) so when it's bolted down will make good contact with the tank wall. Just my thoughts. The heater is shutting down when set to off and therefore only the TS, which is basically a switch in series with the power switch is the issue. Oh well.
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Old 12-20-2018, 03:52 PM   #25
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ArmyAV8R,

We would be happy to assist you with an answer to this. Please contact Rayna Dimitroff in our Customer service department through the following personalized and direct link: Forest River RV Direct Service Contact - Forest River, Inc..

This direct link is provided for your convenience in order that we may resolve your concerns as quickly as possible. We will strive to respond to you within 24 hours of receiving your correspondence.

Respectfully,
Forest River
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Old 12-20-2018, 03:55 PM   #26
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ArmyAV8R,

We would be happy to assist you with an answer to this. Please contact Rayna Dimitroff in our Customer service department through the following personalized and direct link: Forest River RV Direct Service Contact - Forest River, Inc..

This direct link is provided for your convenience in order that we may resolve your concerns as quickly as possible. We will strive to respond to you within 24 hours of receiving your correspondence.

Respectfully,
Forest River
WOW!
The OP has a 2010 model.
It is interesting to see the factory step in on this one.
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Old 12-21-2018, 11:51 AM   #27
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It dripped once as water got too hot to touch.
I lifted the lever to remove any scale... this last try, water got too hot to touch and no drips. Maybe I should replace the relief valve? I have a replacement... then try again to see if I just quit too soon.... and yes, I need to get a thermometer to measure water temperature.
Are you sure your letting the water come up to temp ? if the burner never shut off the t&p valve would blow not just drip . take a reading of the water temp S/B 140 which is very hot but the best temp to kill bacteria and lasts longer for showers . The pictures you posted show the t-stats if you fire up the heater and pull the red wire it should shut off . gas valves just don't stick open nor would the control board allow the valve to stay open even if the board is bad .
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:02 PM   #28
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MR. M... thank you.
Military duty has prevented my reply.
I'll try that. Is that safe to do? To heat until the valve blows?
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:43 PM   #29
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MR. M... thank you.
Military duty has prevented my reply.
I'll try that. Is that safe to do? To heat until the valve blows?
well it'll shut off before it blows . i just don't think you let it get to full temp . when the t-stats fail they fail open normally .follow the steps
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