Interesting problem with propane system

[Chuck_S]

Good to know my refill place may also recertify my cylinders. I'll ask next time.

-- Chuck

[eric1514]

This thread has reminded me that on my old B van, there was a Tee in the black iron pipe coming from the propane tank. One outlet of this Tee pointed down towards the ground and had a 6" nipple with a cap screwed into it. It was meant to serve as a trap for this oil and although there were no instructions, probably for liability reasons, you could remove the cap or nipple and drain the oil. I remember doing it once and finding next to nothing, but I never used much propane in that van.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by eric1514

This thread has reminded me that on my old B van, there was a Tee in the black iron pipe coming from the propane tank. One outlet of this Tee pointed down towards the ground and had a 6" nipple with a cap screwed into it. It was meant to serve as a trap for this oil and although there were no instructions, probably for liability reasons, you could remove the cap or nipple and drain the oil. I remember doing it once and finding next to nothing, but I never used much propane in that van.

I had something similar on a natural gas water heater at home. The gas supply came down out of the ceiling and did a 90 into the thermostat. That 90 was a T with a pipe nipple on the bottom side. It might be useful to patch such a T into the propane line close to the tank on my trailer. But I never even heard of this problem until now. I don't know what benefit I'd get out of that preventative measure but I'm glad to know how to fix the issue if it ever occurs.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

I had something similar on a natural gas water heater at home. The gas supply came down out of the ceiling and did a 90 into the thermostat. That 90 was a T with a pipe nipple on the bottom side. It might be useful to patch such a T into the propane line close to the tank on my trailer. But I never even heard of this problem until now. I don't know what benefit I'd get out of that preventative measure but I'm glad to know how to fix the issue if it ever occurs.

What you are describing is often referred to as a "dirt leg" or "drip leg". It's a sediment trap that collects the stuff you don't want in your appliances.

All my gas appliances in houses I've owned had one just before the appliance connection rather than a regular 90.

Have never seen one on my TT's but if one has seen "Skunk Oil" in their lines adding one near the tank regulator might be a good idea.

I would imagine the quality control issues plaguing many industries now is also affecting propane production, transport, and dispensing.

[glen1971]

Finding an oily substance is not new to propane systems. It's been around for years. Knowing the signs that it is effecting your system and how to deal with it is key.

I didn't know about a second grade of propane. Trust California to be unique..
https://www.propane101.com/propanegradesandquality.htm

[Chuck_S]

Interesting there are 3 grades. I'll try to remember if any grade is listed by my vendor. HD-10 propane appears to be a non issue in our campers.

However, HD 10 spec propane works just fine in domestic and commercial propane powered appliances. The primary problem that may be encountered in using HD-10 propane involves its use as an engine fuel (vehicles, forklifts, etc.).

-- Chuck

[NMWildcat]

Example of a drip leg on my new water heater installation at my S&B home.
I can't easily put one in before the main RV regulator, but it can be done on the pipe out of the regulator. And the lower drip leg location would be protected by the front jack.
Now to decide if it is worth it

[eric1514]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Example of a drip leg on my new water heater installation at my S&B home.
I can't easily put one in before the main RV regulator, but it can be done on the pipe out of the regulator. And the lower drip leg location would be protected by the front jack.
Now to decide if it is worth it

Well, someone at Winnebago thought it was enough of a problem to get it by the bean counters on my B. I don't have one on my Dynamax C and those guys love spending your money. I don't think I'll add one. Remembering that it might be an issue later down the road should be enough.

[Chuck_S]

The installer who replaced my 18 year old water heater in my garage -- looks darn identical to the one in the photo just posted -- told me the drip leg was "code." I don't recall if there was one there already but there is now and there's one on the furnace right next to the water heater too. And on the furnace for the 2d and 3d floors in the attic. I assume the cap is there to allow cleaning. I'll ask my furnace guy when he does my AC inspection in the next couple of weeks.

I was curious about the the little blinking light on the front of the water heater control since there's no electrical power to the water heater. Works by some magic electric principle of dissimilar temperatures or something I missed in 7th grade general science. Black Box principle: who cares why it works it just works.

-- Chuck

[boondocking]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

The installer who replaced my 18 year old water heater in my garage -- looks darn identical to the one in the photo just posted -- told me the drip leg was "code." I don't recall if there was one there already but there is now and there's one on the furnace right next to the water heater too. And on the furnace for the 2d and 3d floors in the attic. I assume the cap is there to allow cleaning. I'll ask my furnace guy when he does my AC inspection in the next couple of weeks.

I was curious about the the little blinking light on the front of the water heater control since there's no electrical power to the water heater. Works by some magic electric principle of dissimilar temperatures or something I missed in 7th grade general science. Black Box principle: who cares why it works it just works.

-- Chuck

A electrical current is produced via the thermopile making the LED flash.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by boondocking

A electrical current is produced via the thermopile making the LED flash.

Ok, ya made me look up thermopile and learn something new

[eric1514]

Kinda like the thermocouple keeps the gas valve open with millivolts produced by the heat of the flame.

[Chuck_S]

Like I wrote "magic electric principle."

-- Chuck

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

Like I wrote "magic electric principle."

-- Chuck

It was "magic" back in medieval times. Today it's Science. Fewer animal parts involved

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Ok, ya made me look up thermopile and learn something new

You could have provided a link to spare the rest of us from having to look it up, too.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Example of a drip leg on my new water heater installation at my S&B home.
I can't easily put one in before the main RV regulator, but it can be done on the pipe out of the regulator. And the lower drip leg location would be protected by the front jack.
Now to decide if it is worth it

Now I'll probably spend more energy just thinking about it than actually doing it.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

Now I'll probably spend more energy just thinking about it than actually doing it.

I understand

[raysen]

How about installing a drip pockets at a convenient location just like near residential water heaters and furnaces etc....

[raysen]

How about installing drip pockets at a convenient location just like near residential water heaters and furnaces etc....

[raysen]

How about installing drip pockets at convenient locations just like near residential water heaters and furnaces etc....