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Old 10-08-2020, 06:57 PM   #1
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LP/Carbon Monoxide Detector Wiring - Forest River Sunseeker 3170DS

Hello - We have a 2015 Forest River Sunseeker 3170ds with a bad LP/CM detector. We are trying to replace it ourselves (Safe T Alert 35-742). We are those dumb dumb that took it all apart with no pictures and now can't figure out the wiring. There are sets of wires (so four total) - two white, two black. When we took the old alarm off, the positive wire (red) from the detector hooked up to a fused wire with a fuse labeled "E." Trying to figure out how to put it all back together and how to ensure it's getting power.

We've tried every single way we can imagine and either keep getting a red light illuminating on the RV main fuse box or nothing at all. The detector never comes to life.

HELP PLEASE! Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-09-2020, 09:45 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum its a great place to get your questions answered. First if you are getting a light at the fuse panel you have a blown fuse. Provide the make and model of the detector and I"m sure someone on the forum will have an answer.
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Old 10-09-2020, 10:54 AM   #3
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As said above, the red light in the fuse panel means blown fuse.

Double check wiring and replace fuse. It's easy to inadvertently touch wires when working with them and blow a fuse at the distribution panel.


Tip for future reference (and others reading this) when removing an old device rather than just disconnecting cut wires from old device, leaving enough connected to system wires that you can identify by color of insulation. Then make connections one at a time, removing only one old wire at a time. Or of course take pictures
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Old 10-09-2020, 11:07 AM   #4
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The reason that there are two reds and black is because they continue to another appliance !
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Old 10-09-2020, 03:32 PM   #5
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Our carbon monoxide alarm

Our alarm won’t stop !!! There is no power to camper &. No propane hooked up how do we stop it ?

The reset doesn’t help
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Old 10-09-2020, 03:38 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Loraine View Post
Our alarm won’t stop !!! There is no power to camper &. No propane hooked up how do we stop it ?

The reset doesn’t help
It has probably reached or exceeded its expiration date and likely needs to be replaced. Pulling the 12v fuse (it's probably a 3 amp) or disconnecting the battery should shut it up, but you won't be protected until you replace it.

I bought my rig used and at some point a previous owner had physically cut the wires to the LP detector, no doubt to shut it up.
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Old 10-09-2020, 04:43 PM   #7
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It has probably reached or exceeded its expiration date and likely needs to be replaced. Pulling the 12v fuse (it's probably a 3 amp) or disconnecting the battery should shut it up, but you won't be protected until you replace it.

I bought my rig used and at some point a previous owner had physically cut the wires to the LP detector, no doubt to shut it up.
Yesterday my LPG alarm started sounding when I disconnected batteries and shut off converter while doing some work on the 12 volt system. Didn't shut up until I restored power.
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Old 10-09-2020, 05:42 PM   #8
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Yesterday my LPG alarm started sounding when I disconnected batteries and shut off converter while doing some work on the 12 volt system. Didn't shut up until I restored power.
Your alarm must have some sort of internal battery I have no idea of what mine has and will wait until it starts squaking to find out.
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Old 10-09-2020, 06:24 PM   #9
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Your alarm must have some sort of internal battery I have no idea of what mine has and will wait until it starts squaking to find out.
Probably a small Lithium Ion battery to provide a power out alarm.

Mine lasted for at least an hour before I restored power.
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Old 10-09-2020, 08:35 PM   #10
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Don't cut old wires

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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
As said above, the red light in the fuse panel means blown fuse.

Double check wiring and replace fuse. It's easy to inadvertently touch wires when working with them and blow a fuse at the distribution panel.

Tip for future reference (and others reading this) when removing an old device rather than just disconnecting cut wires from old device, leaving enough connected to system wires that you can identify by color of insulation. Then make connections one at a time, removing only one old wire at a time. Or of course take pictures
Better yet, don't cut the wires at all--or all at once.
  • Put the old component and new component side by side.
  • Disconnect one wire from the old component and immediately connect it to the new component.
  • Then disconnect the second wire from the old component and connect it to the new component.
  • Repeat until there are no wires left on the old component.

The above assumes that the connections are push-on terminals, screw-down terminals, or pigtails with removable wire nuts. If the pigtails are connected with crimp connectors, then you will have to cut wires but after you cut each one, make the connection before cutting the second one.

And most of all, use the camera in your phone!! Take pictures before you start so you can refer to them when you have a mental lapse. I used to be able to look at a component and remember all its connections. Can't do that any more.

This procedure applies to anything that has more than one wire: relays, thermostats, control boards, distribution boards, you name it.
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Old 10-10-2020, 04:30 AM   #11
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In a 12 volt system black is ground Other colors are hot or positive, inthis case white.

Leave the blown fuse alone at first. This way you won't blow another one accidentally by touching the hot and ground wires together.
I think you most likely have a red and white wires coming from your new detector?

1. If that is the case connect both black wires and the white (or black if that is what the detector has) together with a wire nut.

2. Now connect the red wire to the two white wires with a wire nut.

3. Now replace the fuse in the panel.
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Old 10-10-2020, 07:38 AM   #12
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No!

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In a 12 volt system black is ground Other colors are hot or positive, in this case white.
This is NOT reliably the case in RVs. You cannot rely on it. In RVsl, white is generally ground. Black and red are used for positive 12v.

Historically, 120v systems used black for hot and white for the neutral (common return). Electronic systems used red for positive and black for the common return.

But when RV manufacturers began teaching electricity to their farm-boy assemblers, it was easier to use a uniform scheme. They adopted the 120v scheme for both 120v and 12v systems. In both, white is the common return. This is why you will often see the black battery cable connected to the positive terminal and the white battery cable connected to the negative terminal.

Even on the 12v 7-pin "Bargman connector", Red is positive 12v, Black is backup lights, and White is ground. See the attached image.
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
This is NOT reliably the case in RVs. You cannot rely on it. In RVsl, white is generally ground. Black and red are used for positive 12v.

Historically, 120v systems used black for hot and white for the neutral (common return). Electronic systems used red for positive and black for the common return.

But when RV manufacturers began teaching electricity to their farm-boy assemblers, it was easier to use a uniform scheme. They adopted the 120v scheme for both 120v and 12v systems. In both, white is the common return. This is why you will often see the black battery cable connected to the positive terminal and the white battery cable connected to the negative terminal.

Even on the 12v 7-pin "Bargman connector", Red is positive 12v, Black is backup lights, and White is ground. See the attached image.
Now the poor guy is so confused he has NO earthly idea what do do is my guess.
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Old 10-10-2020, 04:53 PM   #14
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Probably better...

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Now the poor guy is so confused he has NO earthly idea what do do is my guess.
That's probably better than burning out the new propane detector because he was advised to hook it up in reverse polarity.

Hopefully someone with that trailer will post a photo of the detector and its wiring.

The goofy RV wiring causes a lot of confusion. It helps to understand the history of how they got there.

When I was young, I used to draw schematics of components I was replacing, Now I either simply move one wire over at a time, or take a picture with my phone, or both.
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Old 10-10-2020, 10:13 PM   #15
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That's probably better than burning out the new propane detector because he was advised to hook it up in reverse polarity.

Hopefully someone with that trailer will post a photo of the detector and its wiring.

The goofy RV wiring causes a lot of confusion. It helps to understand the history of how they got there.

When I was young, I used to draw schematics of components I was replacing, Now I either simply move one wire over at a time, or take a picture with my phone, or both.
To be honest most 12 Volt appliances don't give a whit abou ttheir polaroity. LEDs will simply not function if reversed.

All he has to do is recall what colors were connected together. A photo would help. So would looking at the crimp on connectors he had to cut off in order to remove the old one to see what wires are connected to which..
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