Newby with no propane

[Murf]

Thanks for reading. I bought a used 2005 Georgetown SE. It came from an auction. This is my first RV other than a pop-up used only for sleeping several years ago.

The motorhome came with no manuals and very little guidance from the seller. I'm trying to test the appliances but I get no gas to the range and the refrigerator doesn't light.

There is some kind of an electrically operated safety shut off valve in-line just after the regulator. The wire terminals of the shut off valve have no voltage and that's probably why no gas to the coach.

Where is the control voltage for that shut off valve generated? Is there a block diagram of my propane system?

Murf

[fonzie]

Maybe this thread will help?

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...low-38042.html

[silverback 35ts]

Since there is a no voltage issue you first need to repair that, it most likely is a fuse but here is the hard part, the fuse may not be ( and most likely is not) in the fuse box, rv's have a horrible thing and fuses all over the place, since you have a motor home the switch is a safety thing so you need it ( or want it) but you will need to trace the wiring from the switch to a termination point and look for a in line fuse. replace the fuse and go from there, hope it helps you out some.

[Wiscampsin]

If you can find the model #'s of your fridge, water heater, furnace, AC here's a link to some manuals. Don't know if it will cover your's or not but it might be worth a try.

Service Documents

[coupevillefish]

Yes, there is a propane off switch. It is part of the propane detector, next to the door (at least on our 2004). When the detector is off to save battery, no propane flows. When I turn our switch on, I can hear the switch down by the tank engage.

[RamblerGuy]

This is a little off your topic, but the life of propane detectors is 5 years. Pull it out and check the date of manufacture. If it is more than 5 years old, replace it even if it seems to work. The one on our Sunseeker Class C coach has a legend on the front for blinking codes, one of which is EOL (end of life).

Also, it should be wired so it is has power anytime the coach 12 volt is operating. Ours is on when either the shore line is connected or the battery disconnect switch is on. Ours has a 3 amp in-line fuse in the hot wire from the 12 volt system. Class A's are wired differently, but it must somehow be wired so it has power when the coach is occupied, assuming the occupants want power.

[fonzie]

Murf, do you have propane now?

[Murf]

Thanks everyone. I learned a little since beginning this thread.

It seems that the lack of LP flow is the result of the LP leak detector and safety shut off solenoid valve. It's the discontinued CCI Controls LP Gas Detector Alarm, model 7719: https://www.safehomeproducts.com/shp...19/7719_l.html

The solenoid is electrically in series with the alarm module.

I read on the internet that the shut off valve scheme from the detector alarm is no longer needed due to safety standards changes. Modern RVs do not come equipped with the solenoid valve.

I removed the valve and gas now flows. I'm going to replace the alarm panel with a simple audible type.

[fonzie]

Thanks for the update. We always like to hear back results: good or bad.

[Murf]

2nd update: The solenoid valve and alarm panel tested OK on my work bench. I used a butane cigarette lighter to test the alarm panel. The parts have been reinstalled and tested in service.

It was a matter of not knowing how the system was configured and also how it operates. The alarm panel needs about 30 seconds of self test after you first turn it ON. The valve does not open until the alarm panel has completed that sequence. Also the valve is OFF if you have the alarm panel OFF.

BTW, the solenoid valve can be held opened using a 9 volt transistor radio battery. This may be needed in an emergency if one day the alarm panel fails.

Thanks for the input everyone.
Murf