Propane shutoff valve - use violence?

[poihths]

No, I'm not talking real violence here.

The RV is a Coachmen Leprechaun 31 FSS, 2019.

I think the propane shutoff valve is the item I've marked in red on the attached photo.

I can't turn it with my hands. I don't think it's frozen, because we've had warm weather recently, but I plan to wait to do anything until I'm sure of that.

I have a pair of channel locks the right size to try to put more force on it than I can with my bare hands.

Is that a good idea, done carefully? Or should I let somebody who knows what they're doing deal with this? I'd really rather not break the thing off.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Find someone who know what they are doing. We don't want to hear of you being splattered across the landscape.
You might find a local propane dealer who can help.

[Bama Rambler]

Those valves are backseated, so yes, they can get stuck in the open position. I would gently try the pliers on it but not really aggressively. If you did any damage, it would most likely be stripping the splines out of, or breaking the the knob, not the valve.

[5picker]

Which way are you turning the knob?
If you are currently able to use LP from the tank, the valve is open and could only be turned closed.

[D W]

Originally Posted by Reverse_snowbird

Find someone who know what they are doing. We don't want to hear of you being splattered across the landscape.
You might find a local propane dealer who can help.

X2. The stem in that valve is made of brass and it won't take much to twist it and possibly shear the stem off. With channel locks on it you won't realize it until it's too late. Take it to a propane shop and have them replace the valve. They have the equipment to do it safely.

[poihths]

I'm pretty sure the valve is stuck closed, not stuck open. Nothing that uses propane in the RV works.

[jimmoore13]

I'm with the gentle use of the pliers crowd. If you have one of those microwavable heating pads, you might first wrap that around the valve to warm it up, then gently use the pliers on the knob.

Lefty loosey...you said the valve is closed.

Individuals' hand strength varies with age, experience, angle of attack, and so on. That location is a bit awkward, and judging by the image, the system is older. There's also the fact that it's often easier to "over"-tighten the valve than it is to open it after the fact. I've had this experience with portable tanks that are perfectly fine.

And, while brass won't rust, a bit of corrosion can form around the valve shaft and make it sticky. It's acceptable to spray a bit of WD-40 or similar on the shaft of the valve, and this may ease the friction of any corrosion. Use a rag to catch drips and overspray. The lube won't penetrate past the main valve body, and it dries quickly. It's not a fire hazard if there's no open flame nearby. If you do succeed in opening the valve, turn it back and forth vigorously a few times to allow the WD-40 to penetrate and work out the corrosion. Add more WD-40 as you work out the kinks. You should feel the valve begin to operate more smoothly as you twist back and forth. You're using the WD-40 as a cleaner and solvent...less so as a lube.

Note that the handle on your valve appears to be cast aluminum. Of the two materials, cast aluminum (knob) and brass (shaft), aluminum is softer, so if anything is going to give, it's the replacable aluminum knob. Even if you strip the splines on the knob, it's unlikely you'll ruin the splines on the shaft.

Bearing in mind that failure means replacement anyway, cautious use of the pliers seems reasonable. Obviously, adding vice grips to the shaft and really cranking on it is a recipe for disaster, but pliers on the aluminum knob does not risk breaking open the brass valve body.

If this problem recurs, by all means get the valve replaced...and have your tank inspected and recertified while you're at it. Most tanks can be recertified many times so long as they are not rusting and the valve mechanism is sound. When you see portable tanks age out, they typically just replace the valve, paint the tank and add a new sticker if the tank body is sound.

Good luck.

[D W]

The OP's tank is an ASME Tank and does not require re-qualification or re-certification.

[poihths]

We took delivery of this 2019 motorhome in January from a dealer (General RV in Wixom, MI). They winterized it for us. I suspect a powerfully built young person closed the valve with gusto. It could also be frozen. We're looking at temps going above freezing tomorrow morning and staying above freezing all the way through to Monday morning, so that should eliminate the frozen aspect. I'm thinking of turning the rig around so that the sun shines on that side all day tomorrow.

[boondocking]

Pour a bit of boiling water on the valve then tried opening it.

[mnoland30]

I've noticed that the guys that fill my propane tanks turn them off pretty aggressively. When I open a valve, I open it completely, then go back about 1/16th of a turn, just so it doesn't take a lot of force to turn it. When I tighten it, I don't use a lot of muscle. Seems to work.

[poihths]

New data point: we've been able to demonstrate that the propane valve is stuck open, not closed. We have propane flow to the coach.

[Bob K4TAX]

It is considered good practice to either fully close the valve and snug. Or open the valve fully open and snug. These seal on both sides, open and closed, and if not fully open they are prone to leak. It should not take much force to open or close. But be sure it is one way or the other. Fully closed, or fully open. Not advisable to apply any lubricant to the valve as it may cause deterioration to the internal seals around the shaft.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by poihths

New data point: we've been able to demonstrate that the propane valve is stuck open, not closed. We have propane flow to the coach.

OK...then righty tighty. Hopefully you haven't applied the lefty loosey with the pliers.

FYI, it's unwise to leave your propane tank valve open when not in use. The propane tank valve is the first line of defence against leaks.
What might leak? Well, I had a CharBroil gas grill that developed a leak in one of the burner control valves. It was a slow leak, but I could smell it. And if I forgot to close the propane tank valve, it would leak out a full tank of propane over the course of a couple of weeks.

Obviously, you should fix any propane leak in an RV cabin or appliances, but if your tank is open and such a leak were to occur, a buildup of leaked propane in that confined space could be very dangerous.

[poihths]

So, the final upshot?

I finally got it to function properly with just my hands. I didn't have to use any tools or lubricants after all. Knowing for sure that it was open helped since that told me definitely which way to turn it. Several days and nights above freezing finally coincided with me having time to fuss with it.

All is well and I didn't have to pull out that ultimate problem-solving tool: the credit card.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by poihths

So, the final upshot?



I finally got it to function properly with just my hands. I didn't have to use any tools or lubricants after all. Knowing for sure that it was open helped since that told me definitely which way to turn it. Several days and nights above freezing finally coincided with me having time to fuss with it.



All is well and I didn't have to pull out that ultimate problem-solving tool: the credit card.

Thanks for coming back and letting us know.
Thin plastic is a wonderful tool at times!

[jimmoore13]

Great news...and great line about the ultimate problem solving tool. I try to leave mine in the toolbox, too.

[Capacitor]

Oops!!! It happens.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Glad you got it 'unfrozen' and got that valve working again.