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Old 11-24-2022, 07:27 PM   #1
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Propane System Modifications

Ive been through a few other modifications to my cooking systems. We have a cast iron 3 burner stove and have had several grills trying to find the perfect fit for us.

The stove came with its own regulator and was designed to operate on High Pressure direct from a propane tank. Running it on low pressure from he camper's propane system after the regulator worked, after a fashion, but the flames were VERY low and it took a long time even to scramble an egg.

Same with the grills, they worked sort of just took a LONG time just to grill a hamburger.

Enter the Weber Q 2200 grill and a 12' adapter hose that allows it to connect to a 5 gallon tank or other that has an ACME connection.

What I wanted to eliminate was the need to constantly connect or disconnect fittings or to carry 1 or more additional 5 gallon propane tanks for cooking.

The first and easiest mod was simply to add an ACME 'Y" connector that allows me to connect the end of the hose directly tot eh "Y" at the bottle. No additional 5 gallon propane bottle needed.

For the stove, I tapped off of the propane supply right at the entrance to the regulator with a brass "T". The top connection then went to the hose supplying propane from the 7 gallon tank.

From the bottom of the "T" I went first through a 1/4" ball valve rated at 600 PSI because the rated pressure of the tanks is 350 PSI. A low pressure ball valve would not do the job without leaking or failing completely.

Then a High Pressure flex line with 3/8" female flare fittings to made to that supply and to the 1/2" IP carrying the propane aft along the frame to where the stove sits when camping. A high pressure connect with another incorporated ball valve completed the installation.

The design protects from a catastrophic leak by including both ball valves which will be closed when not actually in use. The connections are protected inside the front side Propane bottle compartment on the camper which is open at the bottom venting it to the atmosphere.

Of course I extended the grounding wire to include the new gas pipe.

Cant wait to go camping again to use my new mods. Looks like it will be mid Feb when our Ragin Cajun baseball team goes to Houston for a weekend playing Rice.
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2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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Old 11-24-2022, 08:17 PM   #2
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Here is how I did it. Weber Q and If you ever needed to switch back, just install the regulator back on.
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Old 11-24-2022, 09:11 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TowPro View Post
Here is how I did it. Weber Q and If you ever needed to switch back, just install the regulator back on.
I saw those. It is an excellent option. I bought the Q while we were in the middle of a 7 week round the west trip and the CW where the Q was on sale did not have one. So I bought the $50 adapter hose for the Weber Q to a propane bottle ACME connection. It also would not solve the issue with the Cast Iron stove.

I truly LOVE the Weber Q. Ive had several grills but the Q is easier to use and a dream to clean up, as compared to the others. ALL the others were a total PITA to clean. Its only failing is only one control. If the burner were split in two it would be Perfect!

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2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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