Refrigerator - Propane required?

[Jtant]

Does the fridge have to have propane to operate? Even connected to shore power my fridge dies if I do not have propane. Is this normal?

[bikendan]

first, it would help to know year, type and model of RV you have. and brand of fridge would help also.
popups have 3-way fridges while other RV's have 2-way fridges.

[LadyWindrider]

Also would help to know what buttons you have pushed. My fridge, has auto, which means it will be on electric if available, but then will switch to propane, if electric fails. If this button is out, it's on propane only. How do you know it dies whan connected to shore power? More explanation please?

[Jtant]

I have a 2009 Surveyor Sport with a Dometic ModelDM2652 refrigerator. I understand the buttons and how it operates only on gas when the gas button is activated and has an automatic button that operates it on shore power. I don't think this is operator error. I was on a recent trip and the refrigerator check light came on telling me there was a problem. I reset then it ran about 20 minutes before the check light returned. One more reset got about 10 more minutes of run time. Switched to a different propane tank and went to bed about two hours later with everything working fine. Woke up the next morning with the check light back on. Discovered that both propane tanks were empty. Refilled the tanks and have not has a problem since. That makes me believe the refrigerator has to have the propane to act as a refrigerant just as a home refrigerator must have freon to operate. Is that enough info? Thanks for the replies. Any other thoughts out there. Sincerely Jtant.

[MtnGuy]

I too have the DM 2652, and it should not need propane while in the automatic mode and hooked up to 120 volts. If it is gas mode only, then it would need propane.

[fivecodys]

Originally Posted by mtnguy

I too have the DM 2652, and it should not need propane while in the automatic mode and hooked up to 120 volts. If it is gas mode only, then it would need propane.

I agree.
I run mine at home all the time on just electricity. Propane is shut off.
Were you nice and level while camping?
I have heard of these units acting up when not fairly level.
Grasping at straws here....sorry.

Bill

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Jtant

That makes me believe the refrigerator has to have the propane to act as a refrigerant just as a home refrigerator must have freon to operate. Is that enough info? Thanks for the replies. Any other thoughts out there. Sincerely Jtant.

Jtant,

Your fridge does not use a compressor in either mode. It uses heat transfer.

The only question is what provides the heat; Propane fire or AC heater elements.

Thus if your until does not cool with AC available, you must check the AC circuit breaker in the power center first. Remember even if AC is available to provide the heat; 12 volts DC from the battery or power converter is needed to run the control panel and light the little light in the fridge.

If the "AUTO" button is "IN" the fridge is "ON"; as long as the "GAS" button is NOT pressed in.

In AUTO without the gas button pressed in (NORMAL OPERATING MODE) the unit will cool if AC and DC is available. If AC becomes "not available" for what ever reason, AND 12 VDC is available, the unit will ATTEMPT to cool via burning propane. If the fire will not light, the "CHECK" light will come on. That is the ONLY way for the CHECK light to come on.

NO FIRE FROM A GAS LIGHT ATTEMPT.

So, for fridge that does not cool on AC

1) check DC fuse in panel. (or open door and see if light works)
2) check and RESET AC circuit breaker in power center
3) Check with socket tester where fridge plugs in behind white cover (to be sure there is power there)
4) Unplug and replug fridge into socket

Obviously fridge runs on propane, because you ran it out. The issue is why it won't run on AC.

[frankm]

herk7769, your response is one of the better troubleshooting guides I've seen (in simple english!) so I will surely print it and add it to my on board manuals/notes. However in the interest of eliminating potential confusion, a small clarification is needed in terms of the buttons found on the DM2652: there is an ON/OFF button, an AUTO/GAS button, and an AUTO indicator light. Once the ON/OFF button is "in" then the rest works in the way you explained it.

Here is a link to the Dometic manual for these fridges, http://www.dometic.com/31a5c621-4a0e...a0f165f1.fodoc

To start the refrigerator:

• Press the ON/OFF button.

• Select operation mode:

AUTO - AES/AUTO mode: AC and GAS.

Press the AUTO/GAS mode selector button (if not already on). The illuminated lamp indicates the selected mode.

GAS mode: GAS operation only.

Press the AUTO/GAS mode selector button to turn off the AUTO mode (if not already off).

(Within 45 seconds the burner should be ignited and operating normally.)

[Jtant]

Originally Posted by herk7769

Jtant,

Your fridge does not use a compressor in either mode. It uses heat transfer.

The only question is what provides the heat; Propane fire or AC heater elements.

Thus if your until does not cool with AC available, you must check the AC circuit breaker in the power center first. Remember even if AC is available to provide the heat; 12 volts DC from the battery or power converter is needed to run the control panel and light the little light in the fridge.

If the "AUTO" button is "IN" the fridge is "ON"; as long as the "GAS" button is NOT pressed in.

In AUTO without the gas button pressed in (NORMAL OPERATING MODE) the unit will cool if AC and DC is available. If AC becomes "not available" for what ever reason, AND 12 VDC is available, the unit will ATTEMPT to cool via burning propane. If the fire will not light, the "CHECK" light will come on. That is the ONLY way for the CHECK light to come on.

NO FIRE FROM A GAS LIGHT ATTEMPT.

So, for fridge that does not cool on AC

1) check DC fuse in panel. (or open door and see if light works)
2) check and RESET AC circuit breaker in power center
3) Check with socket tester where fridge plugs in behind white cover (to be sure there is power there)
4) Unplug and replug fridge into socket

Obviously fridge runs on propane, because you ran it out. The issue is why it won't run on AC.

Thanks for the helpful info. 1) When I open the door the light comes on so I guess the DC fuse is ok?
2) 3) 4) I will try to explore when I have some time this weekend. You are correct, the answer is why won't it run on AC. I have been reading these boards for a couple of months and thanks to all the helpful people I now realize I have a problem with my fridge. Many Thanks jtant.

[08flagvlite]

Hi jtant, just one more possibility that has happened to me on the fridge 110v side; there is a fuse outside under the refridgerator's plastic cover. When you open it up, there's another small cover over the control board to the left side. Remove the 2 screws holding the cover on, and you'll see 2 round glass fuses in there- One is for 12v operation; and the other is for 110v. Mine was doing fine on gas, but would not run on 110, and the service guy at the dealer showed me this little fuse- took him all of 3 minutes to fix it! However, it blew again after a few tries on and off, and he found the problem was a bad/loose ground wire or connection to the board, and it now has worked great ever since.
That may be your problem, too! Hope this gets it for you, as well. Randy

[Al Fresco]

Just a note of clarification. I have a DM 2652 refrigerator equipped with a control panel that has an on/off button and a button labeled “gas.” When the “gas” button is in the non-depressed position, the refrigerator operates only on gas (whether it is connected to shore power or not). When the “gas” button is depressed, the unit switches to the automatic mode and the “automatic” light is activated. In the automatic mode, it runs on electricity when connected to shore power and on gas when shore power is not connected. The bottom line is that the “gas” button must be in the depressed position (automatic mode) in order for the refrigerator to run on electricity when shore power is connected.

At least that is how my unit appears to be working.

[08flagvlite]

Uh.....I believe in post #4 if you look back, it states that he fully understands the gas button's function.

[Herk7769]

I need to add those glass fuses to my repair kit.

[fivecodys]

Originally Posted by 08flagvlite

Hi jtant, just one more possibility that has happened to me on the fridge 110v side; there is a fuse outside under the refridgerator's plastic cover. When you open it up, there's another small cover over the control board to the left side. Remove the 2 screws holding the cover on, and you'll see 2 round glass fuses in there- One is for 12v operation; and the other is for 110v. Mine was doing fine on gas, but would not run on 110, and the service guy at the dealer showed me this little fuse- took him all of 3 minutes to fix it! However, it blew again after a few tries on and off, and he found the problem was a bad/loose ground wire or connection to the board, and it now has worked great ever since.
That may be your problem, too! Hope this gets it for you, as well. Randy

Now that's good information to have written down somewhere.
Thanks for sharing.

Bill

[Al Fresco]

08flagvlite,

I offered the clarification because of what herk7769 said in post 7. There he said:


“If the "AUTO" button is "IN" the fridge is "ON"; as long as the "GAS" button is NOT pressed in.

In AUTO without the gas button pressed in (NORMAL OPERATING MODE) the unit will cool if AC and DC is available. If AC becomes "not available" for what ever reason, AND 12 VDC is available, the unit will ATTEMPT to cool via burning propane.”


On my model DM2652, there are two buttons on the control panel. One is the on/off button and the other is labeled “gas.” With my unit, the position of the “gas” button (misnamed in my opinion) determines whether or not the unit is in the automatic mode. Depressing the on/off button (turning the refrigerator on) and depressing the “gas” button sets the refrigerator in the automatic mode (in which case the automatic mode light comes on). When the “gas” button is in the non-depressed position, the light indicating automatic operation is not on and the refrigerator operates only with gas (even if it is connected to shore power).

Perhaps I am misreading what herk7769 said, but I understood him to be saying that the unit would be in the automatic mode if the “gas” button is not depressed (not “pressed in”). This is contrary to the way my unit operates. On mine, the so-called “gas” button must be depressed (“pressed in”) for it to operate automatically. A small symbol by the “gas” button shows it being in the non-depressed position. Presumably, this is designed to indicate that, if you want gas operation while you are connected to shore power, the button must be in the non-depressed position. Otherwise the heating unit will operate on AC.

In my opinion, the so-called “gas” button on my unit should more properly be called the “automatic” button. When it is depressed (normally interpreted as being “on”), it activates the automatic mode. Why any manufacturer would use misleading nomenclature that causes so much confusion (and not adequately explain the operation in the manual) is beyond me.

[Jtant]

Originally Posted by 08flagvlite

Hi jtant, just one more possibility that has happened to me on the fridge 110v side; there is a fuse outside under the refridgerator's plastic cover. When you open it up, there's another small cover over the control board to the left side. Remove the 2 screws holding the cover on, and you'll see 2 round glass fuses in there- One is for 12v operation; and the other is for 110v. Mine was doing fine on gas, but would not run on 110, and the service guy at the dealer showed me this little fuse- took him all of 3 minutes to fix it! However, it blew again after a few tries on and off, and he found the problem was a bad/loose ground wire or connection to the board, and it now has worked great ever since.
That may be your problem, too! Hope this gets it for you, as well. Randy

Fivecodys (Bill) is right. This kind of information along with herks help is the reason I read these boards. Thanks guys your helpful suggestions are just what I am looking for. You all are much appreciated.
Jtant

[Herk7769]

Al,

I was going from memory (getting worse as time goes on ) and Frank M fixed up which buttons did what, so I did not comment further. The HOW it cools is quite correct and if the fridge is operating properly it should use AC if available and switch seamlessly to Gas if it is not.

Toggling the GAS button will force gas operation even if AC is available.

[08flagvlite]

Al Fresco, I completely understand. Sometimes, all this technical mumbo- jumbo gets confusing! I know it does to me, at least. And, the gas button also seems to me like it should be the "auto" button- because once it is in the out position, which is GAS ON, it forces gas only operation, and the auto light goes off. WEIRD design! For "AUTO" to truly be automatic, with the gas button in (off), the system should in MY opinion AUTOmatically start up in electric mode; and IF for some other reason- no AC power, or a malfunction, such as a blown fuse or something, It would AUTOmatically revert to GAS mode, and try to fire up on that. That's what I think, at least. Randy

[Herk7769]

OK, I went out and checked the camper for the "skinny" on the buttons.
My camper has a Dometic Frdige and has 2 buttons.
One is ON - OFF
One is GAS

When The left on is OUT - The entire fridge is OFF - Electric and gas mode

When the Left is IN - The entire fridge is - ON and the AUTO LIGHT is ON (When the GAS switch is IN as it should be ALL THE TIME - whether you have gas available or not)

IF you do NOT want to use AC - AT ALL - Press the GAS button once to "OUT" The AUTO light will go "OUT" and the Propane will flow and the gas will attempt to light. If it does not the "CHECK" light will come on.

If BOTH buttons are "IN" and power fails; the fridge will eventually call for "cold" and since there is no AC, will try to chill with gas. If the Propane is turned off or the propane does not light; the CHECK light will come on.

[Al Fresco]

herk7769,

Thanks for the succinct and easily-understood description of the operation of your Dometic refrigerator. That is exactly how mine operates.

The thing I find odd and somewhat confusing about the operation is that, if you want the refrigerator to run exclusively on gas (even when hooked up to shore power), the button labeled “gas” has to be in the out (non-depressed) position. If I see an in/out type pushbutton switch on a wall labeled “light,” I would expect that if I pushed the button in, the light would come on. However, with the Dometic refrigerator set up, when hooked to shore power, pushing the “gas” button in effectively turns the gas operation off and switches the unit to the automatic mode which activates electric operation. As I commented above, it seems the “gas” button should more appropriately be called the “automatic mode” button. But then who am I to argue with the geniuses who design such things?