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Old 05-08-2012, 10:36 PM   #1
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Water heater (just gas or gas and electric?)

Does anyone no how to tell if your hot water heater just gas or gas and electric.i have looked outside there is no switch.in the 329 2011 specs it says the hot water is gas and electric if so how do you switch from one to the other any help appricated.

Bob
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:56 PM   #2
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There should be a small rocker switch outside behind the gas line/gas valve on mine it is hard to see it but if it is electric should be there.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:06 PM   #3
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Try looking here:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...7&d=1333647281

A picture or a water heater switch. If it is electric, you will find a 2 inch clack plastic cover, held on by three screws, behind the burner tube. The cover will be bottom, and slightly left of center.
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Old 05-09-2012, 04:59 AM   #4
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You can also look at your breaker pannel for the water heater breaker. If you have a gas/elect the elect rocker switch will be located on the outside of your unit. You will have to take the water heater door off to turn the switch on or off, also the switch will have a pin through it so you do not turn it on by mistake. The only way to switch from one to another is to turn one on and the other off. Its not an automatic thing. I will only run the elect if on 50 amps as the draw is really great. You can have both on at the same time.
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:44 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardinal4fun View Post
You can also look at your breaker pannel for the water heater breaker. If you have a gas/elect the elect rocker switch will be located on the outside of your unit. You will have to take the water heater door off to turn the switch on or off, also the switch will have a pin through it so you do not turn it on by mistake. The only way to switch from one to another is to turn one on and the other off. Its not an automatic thing. I will only run the elect if on 50 amps as the draw is really great. You can have both on at the same time.
That's not totally true . You can run both gas
And electric on 30 amp at the same time and the draw isn't
That much because.
the electric side is 110v
Gas side is 12 v
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:29 AM   #6
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On my trailer the switch for electric is on bottom left of water heater. Black switch behind silver tubing.
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:52 AM   #7
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Fyi I have a 2011 palomino and the outside switch is disabled!
The gas AND electric switch is mounted on control panel.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:11 AM   #8
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The switch on my control panel is for the propane ignition. (you can hear it clicking when it is trying to light) When the red light goes out ( about 3 sec.) the propane is lit.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camper007
On my trailer the switch for electric is on bottom left of water heater. Black switch behind silver tubing.
This one looks the same as mine, but the black switch he is speaking of is to turn the system on. If only this switch is on it is, or will run on gas. On the monitor is a switch labeled "heater" that is to turn on the electric (120V) part of the water heater.
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:25 PM   #10
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Sorry but on mine the black rocker switch is only for the 110V and you don't have to have it on for propane. If you leave this switch on you will burn out the element when you drain the system of water. The switch inside only controls the propane system 12V when the light is lit than it is either trying to light or it failed to light and is in alarm. Mine is a surburban water heater and from what I know that is the way they work the Atwood I'm not sure but is probaly the same.
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdmartin123 View Post
Does anyone no how to tell if your hot water heater just gas or gas and electric.i have looked outside there is no switch.in the 329 2011 specs it says the hot water is gas and electric if so how do you switch from one to the other any help appricated.

Bob
329 georgetown m/h
toad 2011 honda crv
bakersfield ca
The first thing you need to do is figure out what brand of water heater is installed in your unit. It will be either a Suburban or an Atwood. If it is a gas & electric operated Suburban it will be like the photos previously posted in this thread . Also the Suburbans have an anode rod. If it is an Atwood dual mode model, the switch for electric operation will be inside the cabin, most likely on a panel with a Heater on/off switch for electric operation AND a Heater DSI (direct spark ignition) switch and accompanying indicator light that tells you if the DSI system has worked correctly (light will initially come on and then extinguish when the burner lights). The Atwoods do not have an anode rod as the tank is constructed of a different material. Both types can be operated on propane only, 110Vac only, or both simultaneously. Both MUST be full of water prior to turning on the 110Vac or fatal damage will occur to the heating element. To complicate things even further, some RV's fitted with Suburban water heaters have been modified, either at the factory, or by the owner so that the external power switch is bypassed (or permanenty left in the "on" position and a on/off switch and indicator light mounted inside the RV. This is done for convenience.

If there are other brands in addition to the ones mentioned in this post, or if the info needs to be amplified or corrected in some way, I am sure someone will jump in.

...VTX-Al
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:23 PM   #12
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The AC Switch Location - Suburban WH

Here is the Suburban switch location. It's function is to turn on the 120VAC water heater element ONLY. The switch inside with the red light can be "OFF" and with shore power only and this switch "ON" you will make hot water.
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:35 PM   #13
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Herk:

In the first picture, what is the switch shown on the back of the water heater for?

I don't remember seeing it on mine.

Rick
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJHuser View Post
Herk:

In the first picture, what is the switch shown on the back of the water heater for?

I don't remember seeing it on mine.

Rick
Rick, I knew someone would call me on that one. I have no idea whose water heater that is, but it is the best picture of the bypass valves I have.
It also shows the location of the AC switch on that model.

The other photos are of my Suburban 6 gallon HW tank.
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:55 PM   #15
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Herk:

It's been a long time, but I think in my first TT (1995) it had an Atwood water heater and the electric element switch was on the back like that shown

Rick
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:29 AM   #16
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I have a 2005 flagstaff and can not get my water heater to heat. Is ther a power switch to turn it on, and where is it located.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:46 AM   #17
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I kept my power source on to my travel trailer the switch on the wall above the water heater compartment was on and red reset light was lite. Leaving it on will it do any damage to the water heater?
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:31 AM   #18
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I kept my power source on to my travel trailer the switch on the wall above the water heater compartment was on and red reset light was lite. Leaving it on will it do any damage to the water heater?
No, but after 3 failed light attempts (red light on) the High/Low limit switches will pop the breakers inside the water heater,

When you have water in the heater (you can open the relief valve and water comes out) you will be able to reset the switches.

1) Turn off the switch with the red light
2) Make sure the little black switch under the metal cover outside was turned off when you winterized.
3) With the outside metal cover open (on the suburban WH) look for two round rubber circles. One or both should be "dimpled." Press the center of the rubber circle until you feel it snap in. That is the reset button resetting. (At the very top of one of the second photo).
4) Making sure you have Propane, switch the WH back on. The red light should come on and then go off letting you know the heater has called for heat and the propane did light. If you ever see the red light on, it most likely means you ran out of propane.
5) If you found the black switch in the on position; you had power to the camper; and no water in the WH; you most likely burned up your 120VAC element. To fix it you will need to remove and replace it (bit of a job but if you are handy it should not be bad.).
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:57 PM   #19
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I HAVE A CONFESSION TO MAKE!

Maybe I have been lucky(obviously on more than 1 occassion)!

The day before we leave to go on a trip with the VLite, I plug the trailer into the electricity so I can turn on the refridg to get it as cold as possible. I don't travel with the gas on the refer. Something about a gas flame behind me is uncomfortable. Well, upon arriving at our destination, and while connecting all the hoses,cables, jacks,etc.; I go to flip the switch on to the water heater inside the outside door. YES I LEFT IT ON FROM THE LAST TRIP! I usually don't use my gas to heat the water, only electric. Held my breath and it seemed to work fine all week. I don't usually drain my water lines or the tank, so I am hoping that by having some water in the tank for that day(prechilling the refer) or so didn't hurt the tank. I guess time will tell. Have made me a little note that hangs down in my outside storage compartment to remind me to turn off the H2O heater! Ya'll don't fuss at me, I've only been camping 18 years!
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:02 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
That's not totally true . You can run both gas
And electric on 30 amp at the same time and the draw isn't
That much because.
the electric side is 110v
Gas side is 12 v
X2 We have even ran our electric off 20 amp service.Works fine if you don't run microwave or tea kettle at the same time.
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