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Old 06-12-2017, 02:57 PM   #21
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I used the camera. I was able to see that it was secured the same way the other side was.. Staples and screws. I was able to pull it down. I did have to deal with the gas line which was fun but I did manage to do it without completely removing it.. I just let it drop a bit.

I pulled the duct and found the reason for my non-working bedroom vent. It was completely plugged up with fabric/stuffing/ etc.. the plug was about a foot in length and rapidly expanded to about 8" in circumference after I pulled it out. It was definitely a mouse. He died in there as I found him below the furnace where there is the distribution box. No wonder it smelled in there when we turned it on. I'm really glad that I pulled it all down and took time to inspect it all. I put it back up and replaced the duct going to the bedroom with one that had some insulation on it so it will stay warmer if it's cold outside. Also noticed that my gray water galley tank was hanging down through the frame. Added some wood shims and construction adhesive so they wouldn't move around. Hopefully that's enough to keep it in place.

Buttoning it all back up was a major pain in the rear but after some creative language I was able to button it all back up and she's looking good now.

I washed and waxed it and took down some of the yellowed plastic bits (speakers, lights, etc) and painted them bright white.

Looks so much better.
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Old 06-12-2017, 04:04 PM   #22
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Glad you found it. Thanks for the follow up.
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:16 AM   #23
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Glad you found it. Thanks for the follow up.
+1!
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:02 AM   #24
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Not sure what type of material you are trying to remove? Is it black Coroplast (plastic, corrugated material)
I would cut access holes through the belly and clean out the rotting critter nest you have blocking the vent line.
You can patch holes with Gorilla tape or black Eternabond.
Don't just use tape or eternabond. Buy some of these coroplast sign panels. Use #14 self tapping screws to hold it to the original coroplast and then tape. Open access panels as narrow as possible. These are basically the same stuff as the underbelly, only in panels.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:29 AM   #25
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Don't just use tape or eternabond. Buy some of these coroplast sign panels. Use #14 self tapping screws to hold it to the original coroplast and then tape. Open access panels as narrow as possible. These are basically the same stuff as the underbelly, only in panels.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those are great :-) I ended up removing the whole panel. It was a good thing that I did as I had multiple things to address under there and I wouldn't have seen them if I'd just cut an access hole.

What a PITA to get that whole panel back up into place though. If it's more straightforward in the future I'll do this.

Thanks guys for your help.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:08 PM   #26
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For what it's worth, I saw Home Depot carries pieces of Coroplast...I was looking for some lexan and saw it. Surprised me they had it.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:32 PM   #27
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For what it's worth, I saw Home Depot carries pieces of Coroplast...I was looking for some lexan and saw it. Surprised me they had it.
Good thing. I'll look for it next time I'm there. Could be handy to have.
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Old 07-19-2017, 11:49 PM   #28
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Hi Matman,
I have the exact same model RV as you. 2004. Very happy with it. I will have to remove the coroplast underbelly to look at damage, since we had some rodents take shelter in de underbelly section during the last winter.
Did you ever remove any panels and if so, how did it work out attaching them again? I am going to replace my coroplast underbelly, since I will be removing it anyway. Any unexpected roadblocks I should anticipate?
Thanks for any feedback.
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:51 AM   #29
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Hi Matman,
I have the exact same model RV as you. 2004. Very happy with it. I will have to remove the coroplast underbelly to look at damage, since we had some rodents take shelter in de underbelly section during the last winter.
Did you ever remove any panels and if so, how did it work out attaching them again? I am going to replace my coroplast underbelly, since I will be removing it anyway. Any unexpected roadblocks I should anticipate?
Thanks for any feedback.
Yes, I did. It was a PITA to get it back up but I was able to manage with some assistance. My wife and 17 yr old son were very helpful. You'll want to lay it beneath and have them hold one side in position while another person runs the screws back in with a drill. Then move to the other side and repeat.

In the end I'm glad it did it rather than cutting a bunch of holes. I was also able to address several items I wouldn't have seen if I did not remove the whole panel.

The original fasteners were staples but I used sheet metal screws to put it back up. Either would work. Some of the wood supports in the middle had broken off of the side and loose. Plan on having some t-braces on hand to repair/reinforce them.
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Old 07-20-2017, 11:07 AM   #30
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Thank you 007Matman
Since the Coroplast is in good shape, I may just use it again as well. Especially since the underbelly is made of 3 large sections intstead of panels. It appears that if I had any wooden crossbars in the underbelly to attach the Coroplast to, they must have detached as well, since I don't feel any resistance when pushing up where the metal cross strips are, which holds the underbelly.
Thanks for the heads up on the t-supports. Will make sure to get some.
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