Azdel panel repair on trial panel

[ChrisParise]

Originally Posted by NJKris

We are COOKING here in NJ. My remote thermometer in camper is showing over 100° inside past couple days. That would certainly dry stuff out IF there is a path for moisture to escape.

Hitting 100 here, 3rd day in a row, in SE Wisconsin too.

I'd recommend putting fans with the door open or a dehumidifier with the door closed in the rear storage compartment to dry out the area.

[ECBill]

It’s been got here too, but highs in 90s with high humidity.

Pealed back the veneer on the inside next to the rear door. Found plenty of moisture there. Also some styrofoam, so it’s not all solid wood behind the Azdel.

Been opening it up and letting it bake in the afternoon sun. May try some fans too. Closing it up with a dehumidifier inside at night might really speed up the process. Thanks for sharing those ideas.

Some of the rotten wood has already been removed. Wouldn’t there be mold and mildew concerns if the remaining old wood is retained?

[ChrisParise]

Originally Posted by ECBill

Some of the rotten wood has already been removed. Wouldn’t there be mold and mildew concerns if the remaining old wood is retained?

Without seeing the complete picture of the areas including what it looked like before you began your process of removing wood from the inside puts me at a disadvantage

My advice would be to stop any material removal and let it dry out. If mold is a concern, once dried you could spray with an off the shelf bleach solution, let that dry and then there are mold encapsulation products you can spray onto the surface. Since it's not in a living area I think that should take care of it.

Any stryrofoam and wood next to the azdel panel will be rebonded together to form a wall once the epoxy is injected into the wall space. Also, any framing members like galvanized steel, aluminum or wood as studs will all get bonded together as the wall

I would reach out to Composet with your issue for their advice

[ECBill]

Will work on getting some pictures posted. A call to Composet is definitely in order.

[NJKris]

Originally Posted by ChrisParise

Without seeing the complete picture of the areas including what it looked like before you began your process of removing wood from the inside puts me at a disadvantage

My advice would be to stop any material removal and let it dry out. If mold is a concern, once dried you could spray with an off the shelf bleach solution, let that dry and then there are mold encapsulation products you can spray onto the surface. Since it's not in a living area I think that should take care of it.

Any stryrofoam and wood next to the azdel panel will be rebonded together to form a wall once the epoxy is injected into the wall space. Also, any framing members like galvanized steel, aluminum or wood as studs will all get bonded together as the wall

I would reach out to Composet with your issue for their advice

That's what I plan on doing to my underbelly wood flooring where it was exposed to wet. There is one spot that looks a little suspicious, not bad, I think a bleach solution should do the trick, then let it dry.

[ECBill]

Here are some pictures. 1st is the inside before digging into it. A couple of shots after opening it up, plus a couple form the bottom looking up at the edge of the back wall.

[ECBill]

Looks like some of the pictures flipped after being formatted. Not how they were posted!

[ChrisParise]

Originally Posted by ECBill

Looks like some of the pictures flipped after being formatted. Not how they were posted!

I think I can make out the condition without the pictures oriented the way you expected.

Is the exterior filon and azdel panel firm and still reasonably well supported given the water damage on the inside?

If it is, I would not recommend injecting epoxy into the wall to bond everything together. Rather, I would fabricate panels of 1/4" plywood to fit over the damaged area attaching them with heavy duty construction adhesive. You'll probably need to make several panels to fit them through your storage openings and brace them from the inside until the adhesive cures overnite at least.

It looks as though your taillights are among the damaged area? If they were not covered don't cover them with your repair panels. Same with the 12v wiring. Restore the wall covering as it was before.

If your exterior filon and azdel is delaminated, that's when you would need to inject epoxy into the wall cavity you restored above.

Chris

[ChrisParise]

Originally Posted by NJKris

That's what I plan on doing to my underbelly wood flooring where it was exposed to wet. There is one spot that looks a little suspicious, not bad, I think a bleach solution should do the trick, then let it dry.

Yes. If you would ever take your rv into a knowledgeable dealer for a leak repair they would do exactly that. Fix the leak, get it to dry out, spray an off the shelf bleach solution and mold encapsulation if possible, dry and make repairs.

Open and closed wall solutions may differ. Not all solutions require opening walls up partially or ompletely. Depends on the damage

[ECBill]

Spoke to Composet. We came to the conclusion that this job would be a mix of replace and rebound/fill.

Further demo revealed stains that lead me to believe the tail lights were the source. Passenger side was even worse than drivers. Have that side almost completely ready for repair.

Will try to get some pics when I go back out there.

[NJKris]

Happy for you finding your leak source. Still not sure where my left front corner underbelly leak originated. Re-sealed front cap top seal last fall, maybe it leaked before I sealed it and remained wet all this time under there. Maybe busted hitch assist light on front wall. Or exterior compartment door right above. Cleaned seals on door from all the pollen and dust so I can see if there is water intrusion. Flooring all dried completely and is not rotten, and bleach solution I sprayed on it has eliminated mildew. Think I caught it in time. Now just have to reinsulate and tape up new underbelly membrane.

[ChrisParise]

Originally Posted by ECBill

Spoke to Composet. We came to the conclusion that this job would be a mix of replace and rebound/fill.

Further demo revealed stains that lead me to believe the tail lights were the source. Passenger side was even worse than drivers. Have that side almost completely ready for repair.

Will try to get some pics when I go back out there.

Sounds like good advice and youve done the right thing by talking to him. He's advised on many many projects.

Let us know as things proceed so others may learn from your project.

Chris

[ECBill]

Originally Posted by NJKris

Happy for you finding your leak source. Still not sure where my left front corner underbelly leak originated. Re-sealed front cap top seal last fall, maybe it leaked before I sealed it and remained wet all this time under there. Maybe busted hitch assist light on front wall. Or exterior compartment door right above. Cleaned seals on door from all the pollen and dust so I can see if there is water intrusion. Flooring all dried completely and is not rotten, and bleach solution I sprayed on it has eliminated mildew. Think I caught it in time. Now just have to reinsulate and tape up new underbelly membrane.

Thank you! It sounds like you are well on your way to a permanent solution on your RV.

Spraying with bleach will probably be my next step. Bleach is corrosive to many metals. Will have to be watchful for that. I may just do one side at a time so that I have an example to follow, then reskin the entire inside wall.