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Old 06-10-2024, 05:08 PM   #1
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Azdel panel repair on trial panel

Water has been getting into the tail panel and the 1.125 thick plywood behind the Azdel is rotten across the bottom. Rotten areas have delaminated. Bad areas go up to as high as 16.

Unaffected areas are still bonded well. Looking for ideas to remove all of the rotten wood and replace it with good. Will need to remove some of the good wood to be able to make straight lines for repair pieces. Would like to preserve the azdel exterior if possible.

Water entry appears to be from the access panel to the basement/garage.
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Old 06-10-2024, 05:11 PM   #2
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Picture?

Trying to post a pic
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Old 06-10-2024, 06:10 PM   #3
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Check your underbelly!!! I just discovered, thanks to groundhogs damaging my underbelly, that the insulation was SATURATED and smelly. Thankfully the flooring didn't rot or warp. When I cut some of the membrane out, all this water came pouring out. Stinky mess. I suspect it is leaking at base of forward/leading bulkhead.
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Old 06-10-2024, 07:12 PM   #4
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Looks like you have quite a mess.

Thank you for the suggestion.

The whole floor of the garage/basement area is like a drop in bed liner in a pickup. It doesnt have anything that could absorb water. All of the low points have drains equipped with rubber check valves.
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Old 06-10-2024, 07:28 PM   #5
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Good. No basement in mine as you can see. I'm going to try to rig up heavy fishing line to help hold the new insulation up before taping new membrane material in place.
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Old 06-10-2024, 09:34 PM   #6
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may be a candidate for epoxy...

but you have to stop the water getting in first
consult a marine repair guy (boat builder)
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Old 06-11-2024, 05:18 AM   #7
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Sorry to see that...... this is why I hated it when they started enclosing the underbelly.

Never had a camper that the underbelly was enclosed. The frame is lighter too....

Kriss thanks for sharing...

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Old 06-11-2024, 10:17 AM   #8
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Sorry to see that...... this is why I hated it when they started enclosing the underbelly.

Never had a camper that the underbelly was enclosed. The frame is lighter too....

Kriss thanks for sharing...

Well, at least I know the floor is insulated now....and will be again soon. The underbelly membrane from RecPro was not expensive. Having to buy 6.7 insulation in 4ft lengths will be most expensive part of repair. They don't sell it in rolls like attic insulation.
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Old 06-11-2024, 08:10 PM   #9
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Could you use R13 or R30 which comes in rolls?
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Old 06-11-2024, 08:21 PM   #10
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Could you use R13 or R30 which comes in rolls?
Too thick. As you can see, the space between the aluminum box tubing is only a few inches deep. I got rolls of the 6.7 at Lowe's for 10 bucks each, minus my military discount. I'm thinking 4 of them will do the trick.
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Old 06-12-2024, 08:55 AM   #11
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Water has been getting into the tail panel and the 1.125 thick plywood behind the Azdel is rotten across the bottom. Rotten areas have delaminated. Bad areas go up to as high as 16.

Unaffected areas are still bonded well. Looking for ideas to remove all of the rotten wood and replace it with good. Will need to remove some of the good wood to be able to make straight lines for repair pieces. Would like to preserve the azdel exterior if possible.

Water entry appears to be from the access panel to the basement/garage.
This is a relatively minor epoxy repair to fix the delamination. Composet has the correct products to use. Repair the leak and the iinside first. The epoxy will bond the substrate to the filon. In your case, clamping access will be in the storage door area made easy by removing the door.
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Old 06-14-2024, 02:52 PM   #12
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This is a relatively minor epoxy repair to fix the delamination. Composet has the correct products to use. Repair the leak and the iinside first. The epoxy will bond the substrate to the filon. In your case, clamping access will be in the storage door area made easy by removing the door.
Good information, thank you.

The biggest problem is that part of the wood is rotten. Bad areas are circled in red in the picture. The wood is 1.125 thick plywood. The rotten wood is delaminating, while the good wood seems to still be bonded.

As best as I can figure it, Ill have to remove some of the good wood along with the bad, in order to install some repair panels. If possible, Im thinking it will be best to avoid damaging the outer azdel surface. Do you have any thoughts or advice?
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Old 06-14-2024, 04:10 PM   #13
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The opinion of a boat guy is: find the leak first. Anything you do will be a big waste of time otherwise.

The outside shell is nothing but fiberglass. This may have said that lightly by me because we deal with it all day. But, if you want to try to save it pick a straight line where any seams can be well camouflaged and cut it off in a fine line.

Remove the rotted core and use a marine grade plywood to replace it. Clean the inside layer and adhere the the new core to the inside layer. Fill any voids with thickened epoxy. Re-adhere the outside layer with thickened epoxy. Be generous with the application and and clean up the edges as you go.

Sand the seam flat and paint with a matching finish.

Short of a day long semicircular thats it in a nut shell
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Old 06-14-2024, 04:37 PM   #14
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The opinion of a boat guy is: find the leak first. Anything you do will be a big waste of time otherwise.

The outside shell is nothing but fiberglass. This may have said that lightly by me because we deal with it all day. But, if you want to try to save it pick a straight line where any seams can be well camouflaged and cut it off in a fine line.

Remove the rotted core and use a marine grade plywood to replace it. Clean the inside layer and adhere the the new core to the inside layer. Fill any voids with thickened epoxy. Re-adhere the outside layer with thickened epoxy. Be generous with the application and and clean up the edges as you go.

Sand the seam flat and paint with a matching finish.

Short of a day long semicircular thats it in a nut shell
Something like this

Next to the last is how to hold the new core in place.

They are out of order
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Old 06-14-2024, 06:10 PM   #15
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Good information, thank you.

The biggest problem is that part of the wood is rotten. Bad areas are circled in red in the picture. The wood is 1.125 thick plywood. The rotten wood is delaminating, while the good wood seems to still be bonded.

As best as I can figure it, Ill have to remove some of the good wood along with the bad, in order to install some repair panels. If possible, Im thinking it will be best to avoid damaging the outer azdel surface. Do you have any thoughts or advice?
Be careful on how you proceed. The Azdel was once bonded to the wood. If you've really got delamination it will appear bubbled and when you tap on it will not return a solid sound like the rest of your coach exterior walls.
In your case, I believe your injection points are the bottom of your rear storage door.

Now, injecting epoxy resin into the wall between the Azdel panel and the deteriorated wood will bond them together again. The wall must be dry to make this kind of repair.

Clamping or sandwiching the wall with bracing after injecting the resin will allow the resin to bond all the materials together again, even if the substrate is in poor condition because the resin will displace the deteriorated wood and form a new interior wall.

I've used the Composet kits for this kind of repair. Composet will guide you through the repair and offer you their opinion on the repair. You're likely to be working with the owner of the company.

Not sure if the forum has this feature but if you look for posts under my name, I documented my delamination repair quite thoroughly with step by step instructions and materials. I believe your project is much smaller than mine though

Chris
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Old 06-14-2024, 08:17 PM   #16
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If I was gonna repair that myself, since I'm not a fiberglass guy, I'd cut out all the rot, foam board on top of marine plywood secured with foam board insulation anchors? Then diamond plate material or similar on exterior. The other guys seem to be much more knowledgeable.
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Old 06-15-2024, 08:47 AM   #17
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If I was gonna repair that myself, since I'm not a fiberglass guy, I'd cut out all the rot, foam board on top of marine plywood secured with foam board insulation anchors? Then diamond plate material or similar on exterior. The other guys seem to be much more knowledgeable.
Not a tt or 5er owner, where I've seen diamond plate on the exterior - and not sure if it came that way off the assembly line or was added by the owner for a fix or add a custom look.

But ive never seen diamond plate on a motorized rv - maybe there's some out there.

To maintain a factory appearance on a motorhome when there's delamination, there is a particular type of fix to address rebonding the substrate to the exterior surface with good results.

For this fix, the inside of the wall material can be deteriorated but it must be dry. I would not recommend removing the wood, in this case and for this type of delamination repair.

Interior trim can be removed and replaced but not the inner wall material bonded to the azdel.

Interior wall coverings may need to be redecorated depending on how visible the water damage. In this case, the inside wall seems mainly in the rear storage compartment so little or no inside work may be needed.
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Old 06-18-2024, 06:28 PM   #18
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Been away for a few days and checked back in. Thank you MGD1961 and Chris Parise for sharing some great ideas.

Will definitely check out Composet.

Problem stared when I noticed the aluminum trim along the bottom was loose. Tried adding some screws but they did not bite into anything. Pulled trim and found rotten plywood.

Started chipping away at rotten wood, thinking it would only be a few inches. Turned out to be much more extensive.

Leak appears to be originating at the rear hatch. Further investigation is needs.

Getting all of the bad wood out and filling with epoxy or Composet, sounds like a doable fix.
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Old 06-18-2024, 08:26 PM   #19
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Been away for a few days and checked back in. Thank you MGD1961 and Chris Parise for sharing some great ideas.

Will definitely check out Composet.

Problem stared when I noticed the aluminum trim along the bottom was loose. Tried adding some screws but they did not bite into anything. Pulled trim and found rotten plywood.

Started chipping away at rotten wood, thinking it would only be a few inches. Turned out to be much more extensive.

Leak appears to be originating at the rear hatch. Further investigation is needs.

Getting all of the bad wood out and filling with epoxy or Composet, sounds like a doable fix.
Without seeing your rotting wood, I would recommend letting it dry out vs removing it.

The idea with a resin and epoxy repair is to brace both sides of the affected area, inject the epoxy into the wall cavity from an access point,
tighten braces with clamps. The injected glue will bond everything in the wall together including the dried out wood.
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Old 06-19-2024, 09:24 AM   #20
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We are COOKING here in NJ. My remote thermometer in camper is showing over 100 inside past couple days. That would certainly dry stuff out IF there is a path for moisture to escape.
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