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Old 09-16-2014, 10:51 AM   #1
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Caulking

I have a 2007 Rockwood SS. My Rv has been caulked numerous times. I am a female and so far someone else has always did the caulking. I want to start doing this myself. I will be using Dycor Products, but how can I tell if what is there is Silicone or latex caulk? If it's silicone I want to remove it. I am learning so any help will be appreciated.
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:16 AM   #2
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Most likely silicone will be shiny. Caulking always has that flat look to it.
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:32 AM   #3
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Is one more elastic (silicone) and the other (latex) would crack more?
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Old 09-16-2014, 01:45 PM   #4
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Silicone will stay rubbery most of its life, acrylic will dry and harden after a while. Either use the dicor stuff or get something from hardware store.that was meant for OUTDOOR window and door installation/finishing that will not harden and remain flexible.
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:22 PM   #5
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What is the cure time after caulking with dicor. Can eternabond tape be applied over the top of new dicor caulk.
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:16 PM   #6
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Mjn, if you are talking about the roof...for sure use the Dicor products, specifically the self leveling lap sealant around anything on the roof. Now, if you are talking about caulking almost anywhere else on the outside, I personally like and elastomeric silicone caulk such as the one below from Home Depot. This stuff is made for applications that is likely to have "movement". Caulking just takes a little practice and coordination so you don't lay down too much too fast and then have a mess when you wipe it down with your finger. If you get to much, wipe it off and start all over...no harm no foul. And yes, if you find a spot where the caulk definitely has "failed", get rid of the old caulk then lay down your new stuff. And wet your finger everytime before you wipe down your caulk line and you'll get a smooth finish. Good luck! HDX 10 oz. Premium Elastomeric Plus Silicone Caulk-1416-1-66 at The Home Depot
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:47 PM   #7
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I've read on various forums
that many experienced campers say don't use silicone. The favorite seems to be Geoseal Proflex RV. I'm a newbie also and am currently trying to clean out the old silicone that a previous owner applied. It's cracked and a mess. I just need to know what to clean the area with before I recaulk. Any words of wisdom?
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:05 PM   #8
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I like lexel at ace for clear...i got an rv store and personally dont like any of the caulk they have for the sides of coaches. sikaflex in white if you want forever..dicor self level or non-sag for roof
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:14 PM   #9
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Yep, use dicor or other name brand of the same on the roof, silicone around exterior windows and doors, showers, and sinks. Caulk like latex or other could be used inside around counters, floors, cabinets, between objects too seal them (like between grab handles and the wall or exterior light fixtures and the wall ), around screws or even in screw holes before putting the screw in, and other areas where constant water will not be hitting it.
It all has its place, often times reading the description on the tube can help you figure it out!
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhoneDude 8289 View Post
What is the cure time after caulking with dicor. Can eternabond tape be applied over the top of new dicor caulk.
eternabond first then caulk the edge. thats our mo...rain can fall almost immediately after dicor is applied. it will just dimple a little...
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Old 03-21-2015, 01:24 PM   #11
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Never ever use caulking on a rv roof, and yes from the gutter rail down use pro-flex, but on the roof get rid of the lap sealant, self leveling caulking that hardens and cracks, clean with acetone and put on a fiber backed seam tape then coat with a 100% Acrylic elastomeric rv roof coating, not siliconized.
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Old 03-21-2015, 02:52 PM   #12
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Never ever use caulking on a rv roof, and yes from the gutter rail down use pro-flex, but on the roof get rid of the lap sealant, self leveling caulking that hardens and cracks, clean with acetone and put on a fiber backed seam tape then coat with a 100% Acrylic elastomeric rv roof coating, not siliconized.
what prep to the epdm before the elastomeric is applied? any issues with adhesion over time?
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Old 03-21-2015, 03:23 PM   #13
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what prep to the epdm before the elastomeric is applied? any issues with adhesion over time?
Clean then Prime, and no problems with adhesion, that is the key the seam tape, primer and commercial grade acrylic coating.
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:30 PM   #14
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i used tri-polymer proflex on a roof sample decades ago when they first come out. it did not hold up to UV light, yellowed and cracked in one season so I never went back. what brand names might you promote for the products that worked for you?
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:07 AM   #15
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i used tri-polymer proflex on a roof sample decades ago when they first come out. it did not hold up to UV light, yellowed and cracked in one season so I never went back. what brand names might you promote for the products that worked for you?
Geocel is what we use $9.00 a tube but worth it....
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:09 AM   #16
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Just a note about Eternabond. I wrote Eternabond about a pebble style roof (it's a popup and it is a rough rough some call it pebble) and they stated do not use on this roof since it cannot get a good solid contact due to the roughness.

As for sealing; per two dealers, my original and the local, Dicor is great for roofs; however, for items such as a fanstastic fan where the fan's rim is plastic and the roof is a different material, use Geocel Proflex RV. The plastic and the roof expand at different temps so the profex is best.

Just saying what two different dealer technicians told me.
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Old 03-25-2015, 06:33 PM   #17
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Thank you one and all for your replies to my original post. All great advice. Now. How do I remove the old silicone caulk that is pulled loose in spots? I tried McKanika and it takes the paint off! Did a section around the slide-out boot. Also tried a remover from Lowes. Camping World says they use WD-40 but tried that and it doesn't work.
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:11 PM   #18
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Is it gummy or hard? I had some hard sealer on my roof from an emergency repair I did last year. I just used a plastic putty knife and after getting it going, it just stripped off. Now that gummy stuff from the geocel that was put on by the manufacture (guess it could have been dicor...not sure) I used a hair dryer and heated it up and scrapped it off with the plastic putty knife.

Then I cleaned the area with a degreaser and stiff nylon brush, then denatured alcohol and applied the new sealant.
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:19 PM   #19
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Geocel is what we use $9.00 a tube but worth it....
Sorry, just to clear this up in my brain, are you recommending Geocel Proflex Rv to reseal roof openings ( vents,skylites etc) on a fiberglass roof ?
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Old 03-25-2015, 10:46 PM   #20
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Thank you one and all for your replies to my original post. All great advice. Now. How do I remove the old silicone caulk that is pulled loose in spots? I tried McKanika and it takes the paint off! Did a section around the slide-out boot. Also tried a remover from Lowes. Camping World says they use WD-40 but tried that and it doesn't work.
I dont use silicone. But to remove i staple epdm rubber roof sheeting a couple sheets thick to a 2x2 and use it like a giant eraser to rub the silicone off. Then I use the plastic scraper for the remainder.
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