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Old 10-10-2020, 09:28 AM   #1
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Enclosed underbelly peeled back

Arrived at the campsite and greeted with my coraplast hanging down, now my question shouldn't there be insulation under the coraplast?
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Old 10-10-2020, 10:50 AM   #2
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Not always. Depends on the RV, but most modern units have the insulation sandwiched in the floor and walls.

It'll be a pain to fix buy totally doable.

Post up some pics if you're looking for suggestions on how to fix.
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Old 10-10-2020, 10:56 AM   #3
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Looking at your camper online, I'm gonna bet it's in the floor and there is no extra insulation underneath.

You have a fiberglass bonded aluminum frame there. The biggest thing I'd worry about is getting it wet under there.
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Old 10-10-2020, 11:02 AM   #4
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I'm fours from home so my options are limited. Got some sheet metal screws and fender washers so use that to screw it back temporarily to get me home. As long term fix need to come up with a method that doesn't leave the exposed edge facing into the wind.

Insulated floor what I was thinking also, so thanks folks.
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Originally Posted by 007matman View Post
Not always. Depends on the RV, but most modern units have the insulation sandwiched in the floor and walls.

It'll be a pain to fix buy totally doable.

Post up some pics if you're looking for suggestions on how to fix.
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Old 10-10-2020, 11:34 AM   #5
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Possibly use a 2” metal strip at the front over the cloroplast and screwed to the underside of the trailer?
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Old 10-10-2020, 11:43 AM   #6
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Typically, there is a metal trim strip that sandwiches the Cloroplast to the underside of the camper.

If you didn't lose the metal strip, you should be able the just screw it back up into place. If you did, then I'd look for a replacement.
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Old 10-10-2020, 12:42 PM   #7
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Lost a section of the metal strip, drivers side, the other side strip stii there, two screws where holding it on. See picture for more detail.
The coraplast is split right down the middle to the next cross beam. Thinking Eternabond tape to seal the split and a wider metal strip as suggested to cover the exposed edge.

Not able post my picture.
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Old 10-10-2020, 12:54 PM   #8
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Ideas

Quote:
Originally Posted by Theb2b View Post
Lost a section of the metal strip, drivers side, the other side strip stii there, two screws where holding it on. See picture for more detail.
The coraplast is split right down the middle to the next cross beam. Thinking Eternabond tape to seal the split and a wider metal strip as suggested to cover the exposed edge.

Not able post my picture.
You could use either Eternabond or Gorilla tape since that area is not subject to UV sunlight.

To post a picture:
1) Have it available on your computer
2) At the top of the editor, click the paperclip icon.
3) Follow the directions in the popup window.
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:01 PM   #9
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I have had the coroplast removed partially on 2 trailers on purpose. Some points use rivets and some use self tapping screws. Who knows why.

I replaced all with self tapping screws and slightly bigger washers. The leading edges and any other openings, I used Gorilla Tape and it held very well for almost 2 years. Sold that trailer.

Not that bad a job for one person if its not too big an area. The coroplast is fairly resistant to bending and such.

Good Luck!
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:20 PM   #10
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Try the picture again, seems to be an issue with my connection. Click image for larger version

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Old 10-10-2020, 02:21 PM   #11
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We have a 2019 Forest River Ultra Lite. The underbelly on ours started to sag. I’m not sure if there’s insulation above it. Our worst spots are around edges or hoses that come through. We used gorilla tape. Worked 1 season. I don’t see any screws or metal frames for them. I just don’t want bugs or water getting inside it.
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Old 10-10-2020, 09:07 PM   #12
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I had mine rip off while on a trip to Florida. Finished the rest of the trip with the coraplast rolled up in the truck. Ended up having FR put on new under warranty - work done at the International Rally. Still have the original stuff, haven't decided what to do with it.



Also no insulation below the floor. Took the opportunity to replace all of the heat ducts with rigid aluminum. Now have much better air flow when running the furnace.
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Old 10-10-2020, 09:43 PM   #13
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I bought a 1/8" thick 1" wide steel flat bar and cut it to length. Used it a one long washer and pre-drilled holes for my stainless self tapping screws. The Edge of the coroplast is sandwiched between that flat bar washer and the frame now. Primed and painted with black satin rustoleum and it looks factory. The weight of a 1/8" thick flat bar stock in negligible and does not affect the trailer.

TheB2B, it looks like yours had something similar from the dust patter around your temp repair. May have just pulled out?
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Old 10-10-2020, 11:08 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Theb2b View Post
Arrived at the campsite and greeted with my coraplast hanging down, now my question shouldn't there be insulation under the coraplast?
The only underbelly insulation in my Mini-Lite is a sheet of radiant barrier insulation. Nothing to stop conduction losses.
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Old 10-11-2020, 08:25 AM   #15
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Looks like my repair, has held up well.
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Old 10-26-2020, 07:58 PM   #16
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it depends on how the coroplast is cut and installed. on ours it runs out to the edge if the frame i beam. i bought some binder clips in the stationary dept and used them to hold the coroplast tight against the i beam flange. they have been on for several years and are still there and the coroplast is still tight against the i-beam. much easier to do than drilling new holes for screw fasteners.
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Old 10-26-2020, 08:49 PM   #17
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Just got back from a 2.5 week trip from Texas to Ark, Kentucky, Ohio. While in Ohio, somehow the bathroom water faucet was left on. Went to bed, 2 hours later woke up to a flooded floor. The grey tank had overflowed. We swept, mopped, and toweled it all up, and put a dehumidifier in. Thought everything was well. 5 days later, I noticed the front section of underbelly was sagging..I poked a couple of holes to drain the water. There is definitely insulation up there on 2018 Grey Wolf 26DJSE. We’ve made a claim on insurance and are letting the pros replace insulation and underbelly. Classic rookie/newbie mistake. Only have had the camper since July. First “big” trip. Other than that, it was a great trip!
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dward51 View Post
I bought a 1/8" thick 1" wide steel flat bar and cut it to length. Used it a one long washer and pre-drilled holes for my stainless self tapping screws. The Edge of the coroplast is sandwiched between that flat bar washer and the frame now. Primed and painted with black satin rustoleum and it looks factory. The weight of a 1/8" thick flat bar stock in negligible and does not affect the trailer.

TheB2B, it looks like yours had something similar from the dust patter around your temp repair. May have just pulled out?
dward51 you are correct, BTW just now focused in on your reply, no doubt it pulled out. I was running 70 MPH into a ~25 MPH head wind so guess it was just to much for it. Like your approach to the fix, will do the same thing as it is not possible to tuck the coroplast under the cross beam.

Question for the group, since the cover has volunteered to peel itself back what kind/type of insulation could a person use if they wished to insulate between the coroplast and the underbelly? Wouldn't think you would use regular "pink" insulation?
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Old 10-27-2020, 05:11 AM   #19
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I noticed on my new 5vr the under belly hanging down farther than I liked.
I got a a metal door jam and screwed it up underneath to hold it in place.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:12 AM   #20
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Have seen on these pages where many people drop the coraplast and add insulation, and tie up wires, replace/improve ducting etc. I have thought about doing much of that on my Crusader. If you get the opportunity to have it off, do it. Replace the expanding goofy rivet things with self tapping screws. My old Montana was held on with those. If you insulate, be sure to use something waterproof such as foam board since there is always the issue of water intrusion, both from outside, and from water leaks. Fiberglass insulation will hold water for years if it gets wet. Just a thought.
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