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Old 11-10-2020, 03:49 PM   #1
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Eraser wheel left brown scuffs after decal removal

Hey guys. Iím taking the burnt, flaking old decals off my rv to install new ones. I have a rubber eraser wheel. Theyíre coming off really fast. Pretty easy. But in some spots there are brown scuffs left over. Iíve used two different types of goof off on a rag. Didnít work. Has anyone encountered this? Am I gonna have to buff it out or has anyone been able to get that off some other way?
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Old 11-10-2020, 04:04 PM   #2
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Oh my, it looks to me like the rubber eraser has abraded the gelcoat?
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Old 11-10-2020, 04:09 PM   #3
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Try a Magic Eraser and LIGHTELY scrub the area and see if that helps. If not, try some polishing compound on a buffer.
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Old 11-10-2020, 04:11 PM   #4
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could be.... never done this before. the rv is going to get some body work done soon as a result of a branch. the rv is gonna get buffed and polished. I'm hoping that a buff will take that out???
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Old 11-10-2020, 04:26 PM   #5
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Can you feel a buildup of something or does it feel smooth?
If you can feel something, then it will likely buff out.

If you can't, it almost looks like you burned the gelcoat. Those wheels can get hot with too much pressure!
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Old 11-10-2020, 04:32 PM   #6
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i can't feel buildup. so maybe i burnt the gelcoat. in which case... buffing will get it out???
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Old 11-10-2020, 04:44 PM   #7
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Buffing it out (if not buildup) will remove some/most of the gelcoat depending on how deeply it is burnt.
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Old 11-10-2020, 05:03 PM   #8
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If you are having body work done anyway, have them grind out the effected area and fill in with some bondoand refinish.
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Old 11-10-2020, 07:11 PM   #9
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I removed the old decals off my front cap with a whizzy wheel and there were a few areas that were yellowed. I don't believe it was heat or speed related as it only occurred when the wheel was first used and only on oxidized areas. After the wheel wore down a bit, it stopped leaving the yellow.
Mine wasn't quite as pronounced as yours, but it buffed out easily using Meguiars flagship marine cleaner/wax and a random orbital buffer. If that doesn't work, get the more aggressive gelcoat deoxidizer.
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Old 11-11-2020, 04:01 PM   #10
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Maybe the new replacement decal will cover up what doesn't buff out.
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Old 11-11-2020, 05:43 PM   #11
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So what's the best way to remove adhesive from stickers? My dealer put quite a few on our Class C and I peeled the stickers off but there's still adhesive left.
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Old 11-11-2020, 05:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medalguy View Post
So what's the best way to remove adhesive from stickers? My dealer put quite a few on our Class C and I peeled the stickers off but there's still adhesive left.
Goof Off or WD-40.
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Old 11-11-2020, 10:42 PM   #13
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Haven't used on the rv yet, but believe it or not Hand Sanitizer worked on stickers on an appliance we bought. The alcohol in the gel did it for us.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat View Post
I removed the old decals off my front cap with a whizzy wheel and there were a few areas that were yellowed. I don't believe it was heat or speed related as it only occurred when the wheel was first used and only on oxidized areas. After the wheel wore down a bit, it stopped leaving the yellow.
Mine wasn't quite as pronounced as yours, but it buffed out easily using Meguiars flagship marine cleaner/wax and a random orbital buffer. If that doesn't work, get the more aggressive gelcoat deoxidizer.
Hey Scott, did you replace the deals, paint on replacements or just leave it with no details at all?

I was thinking of using rattle cans of automotive enamel to duplicate the decals when I paint the front and rear caps.
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Old 11-12-2020, 11:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
Hey Scott, did you replace the deals, paint on replacements or just leave it with no details at all?

I was thinking of using rattle cans of automotive enamel to duplicate the decals when I paint the front and rear caps.
I removed all the decals on the front cap EXCEPT the main Sterling logo. So far it's still acceptable.
I didn't replace any decals. But due to fading, they still look like they are there. No amount of buffing with that grey color will even the ghosting out.
I will probably remove the silver glitter type decals on the side this year as they are now turning brown and ugly also (like the ones on the front did).
Let me know how the paint job turns out. Sounds like a great idea!
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Old 11-12-2020, 03:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat View Post
I removed all the decals on the front cap EXCEPT the main Sterling logo. So far it's still acceptable.
I didn't replace any decals. But due to fading, they still look like they are there. No amount of buffing with that grey color will even the ghosting out.
I will probably remove the silver glitter type decals on the side this year as they are now turning brown and ugly also (like the ones on the front did).
Let me know how the paint job turns out. Sounds like a great idea!
Will do. I think Im going to begin removing the decals soon. that will be the most time consuming part of the entire project. I was planning on using a heat gun to get them off. Ive found that and a bit of adhesive remover or Naptha and it is clean as a whistle. Would you recommend the eraser wheel instead?

It won't take long to sand it once they are removed, then masking won't take long either. While Im at it, since I have to remove all the running lights anyway Im going to switch them all to LEDs. I already have all the ones at the bottom, now for the top front and rear.

I have a local sign shop that worked me up a price for the "Sterling" decal on the front and back. Not bad, $140 installed for both. So after I get all the painting done they can come put that decal on for me.
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Old 11-12-2020, 03:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
Will do. I think Im going to begin removing the decals soon. that will be the most time consuming part of the entire project. I was planning on using a heat gun to get them off. Ive found that and a bit of adhesive remover or Naptha and it is clean as a whistle. Would you recommend the eraser wheel instead?

It won't take long to sand it once they are removed, then masking won't take long either. While Im at it, since I have to remove all the running lights anyway Im going to switch them all to LEDs. I already have all the ones at the bottom, now for the top front and rear.

I have a local sign shop that worked me up a price for the "Sterling" decal on the front and back. Not bad, $140 installed for both. So after I get all the painting done they can come put that decal on for me.
A heat gun wouldn't work on mine as they were very dried and cracked. Not pliable at all. The whizzy wheel and plastic razor blade worked well for those. But as you say, whatever method you use, it is time consuming.
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