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11-10-2020, 03:49 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 14
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Eraser wheel left brown scuffs after decal removal
Hey guys. I’m taking the burnt, flaking old decals off my rv to install new ones. I have a rubber eraser wheel. They’re coming off really fast. Pretty easy. But in some spots there are brown scuffs left over. I’ve used two different types of goof off on a rag. Didn’t work. Has anyone encountered this? Am I gonna have to buff it out or has anyone been able to get that off some other way?
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11-10-2020, 04:04 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ALASKA (World's Biggest Campground)
Posts: 6,749
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Oh my, it looks to me like the rubber eraser has abraded the gelcoat?
__________________
'07 K3500 Silverado LT Crew Duramax (LBZ)
2016 Salem 27RKSS
1984 CHEV SCOTTSDALE K20 2GCGK24J0E1XXXXXX (Chevrolet Legends-Class of 2019)
"...exhaust fluid? We don't need no stinkin' exhaust fluid"
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11-10-2020, 04:09 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 25
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Try a Magic Eraser and LIGHTELY scrub the area and see if that helps. If not, try some polishing compound on a buffer.
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11-10-2020, 04:11 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 14
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could be.... never done this before. the rv is going to get some body work done soon as a result of a branch. the rv is gonna get buffed and polished. I'm hoping that a buff will take that out???
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11-10-2020, 04:26 PM
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#5
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,146
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Can you feel a buildup of something or does it feel smooth?
If you can feel something, then it will likely buff out.
If you can't, it almost looks like you burned the gelcoat. Those wheels can get hot with too much pressure!
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
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11-10-2020, 04:32 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 14
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i can't feel buildup. so maybe i burnt the gelcoat. in which case... buffing will get it out???
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11-10-2020, 04:44 PM
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#7
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,146
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Buffing it out (if not buildup) will remove some/most of the gelcoat depending on how deeply it is burnt.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
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11-10-2020, 05:03 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 25
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If you are having body work done anyway, have them grind out the effected area and fill in with some bondoand refinish.
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11-10-2020, 07:11 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,563
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I removed the old decals off my front cap with a whizzy wheel and there were a few areas that were yellowed. I don't believe it was heat or speed related as it only occurred when the wheel was first used and only on oxidized areas. After the wheel wore down a bit, it stopped leaving the yellow.
Mine wasn't quite as pronounced as yours, but it buffed out easily using Meguiars flagship marine cleaner/wax and a random orbital buffer. If that doesn't work, get the more aggressive gelcoat deoxidizer.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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11-11-2020, 04:01 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Fort Smith, Arkansas
Posts: 305
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Maybe the new replacement decal will cover up what doesn't buff out.
__________________
2016 Wildwood 230BH X-Lite
2011 Ford XLT Supercab
Days Camping -
'15 (6) : '16 (32) : '17 (41) : '18 (35) : '19 (38) : '20 (15) : '21 (15) :
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11-11-2020, 05:43 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 200
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So what's the best way to remove adhesive from stickers? My dealer put quite a few on our Class C and I peeled the stickers off but there's still adhesive left.
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11-11-2020, 05:51 PM
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#12
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medalguy
So what's the best way to remove adhesive from stickers? My dealer put quite a few on our Class C and I peeled the stickers off but there's still adhesive left.
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Goof Off or WD-40.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
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11-11-2020, 10:42 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 9,229
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Haven't used on the rv yet, but believe it or not Hand Sanitizer worked on stickers on an appliance we bought. The alcohol in the gel did it for us.
__________________
2015 Dynamax REV 24TB class C
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11-12-2020, 08:11 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
I removed the old decals off my front cap with a whizzy wheel and there were a few areas that were yellowed. I don't believe it was heat or speed related as it only occurred when the wheel was first used and only on oxidized areas. After the wheel wore down a bit, it stopped leaving the yellow.
Mine wasn't quite as pronounced as yours, but it buffed out easily using Meguiars flagship marine cleaner/wax and a random orbital buffer. If that doesn't work, get the more aggressive gelcoat deoxidizer.
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Hey Scott, did you replace the deals, paint on replacements or just leave it with no details at all?
I was thinking of using rattle cans of automotive enamel to duplicate the decals when I paint the front and rear caps.
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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11-12-2020, 11:32 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasReid
Hey Scott, did you replace the deals, paint on replacements or just leave it with no details at all?
I was thinking of using rattle cans of automotive enamel to duplicate the decals when I paint the front and rear caps.
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I removed all the decals on the front cap EXCEPT the main Sterling logo. So far it's still acceptable.
I didn't replace any decals. But due to fading, they still look like they are there . No amount of buffing with that grey color will even the ghosting out.
I will probably remove the silver glitter type decals on the side this year as they are now turning brown and ugly also (like the ones on the front did).
Let me know how the paint job turns out. Sounds like a great idea!
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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11-12-2020, 03:39 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
I removed all the decals on the front cap EXCEPT the main Sterling logo. So far it's still acceptable.
I didn't replace any decals. But due to fading, they still look like they are there . No amount of buffing with that grey color will even the ghosting out.
I will probably remove the silver glitter type decals on the side this year as they are now turning brown and ugly also (like the ones on the front did).
Let me know how the paint job turns out. Sounds like a great idea!
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Will do. I think Im going to begin removing the decals soon. that will be the most time consuming part of the entire project. I was planning on using a heat gun to get them off. Ive found that and a bit of adhesive remover or Naptha and it is clean as a whistle. Would you recommend the eraser wheel instead?
It won't take long to sand it once they are removed, then masking won't take long either. While Im at it, since I have to remove all the running lights anyway Im going to switch them all to LEDs. I already have all the ones at the bottom, now for the top front and rear.
I have a local sign shop that worked me up a price for the "Sterling" decal on the front and back. Not bad, $140 installed for both. So after I get all the painting done they can come put that decal on for me.
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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11-12-2020, 03:49 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasReid
Will do. I think Im going to begin removing the decals soon. that will be the most time consuming part of the entire project. I was planning on using a heat gun to get them off. Ive found that and a bit of adhesive remover or Naptha and it is clean as a whistle. Would you recommend the eraser wheel instead?
It won't take long to sand it once they are removed, then masking won't take long either. While Im at it, since I have to remove all the running lights anyway Im going to switch them all to LEDs. I already have all the ones at the bottom, now for the top front and rear.
I have a local sign shop that worked me up a price for the "Sterling" decal on the front and back. Not bad, $140 installed for both. So after I get all the painting done they can come put that decal on for me.
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A heat gun wouldn't work on mine as they were very dried and cracked. Not pliable at all. The whizzy wheel and plastic razor blade worked well for those. But as you say, whatever method you use, it is time consuming.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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