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Old 07-27-2020, 09:28 PM   #21
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How du you remove the eternabond from your roof penetrations to replace one? I have heard it’s called eternabond for a reason.
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:32 PM   #22
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A more serious failure point is where the upper awning brackets span the rain gutter. Water intrudes along the lag bolts, soaks the 1x2 behind the rain gutter, and wicks up into the roof decking. Any RV kept outside will have soft spots in the roof decking behind the awning brackets.
What is the preventative resolution?
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:35 PM   #23
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How du you remove the eternabond from your roof penetrations to replace one?
I don't have experience doing that, but I have heard that you can heat the tape with a heat gun to peal it off, or alternatively, cut the eternabond tape ( a skylight) at the edge with a razor knife, replace the skylight unit, then merely tape over like you did the first time you installed the tape... after all it is eterna-bonded to the roof.

This would be similar to installing the tape directly over newer ( in good shape) caulk, without trying to remove the caulk first.
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Old 07-28-2020, 06:06 AM   #24
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When we first got our current camper it was 3 years old. We noticed a leaking in the middle of the roof one day when it was raining particularly hard here in S Louisiana.

I loosened a roof panel and saw where it was dripping from but for the life of me I Could not find where it was entering.

My solution was simple and very effective. I bought a gallon of Gaco Liquid Roof Tape:

https://gaco.com/product-details/liquidrooftape/

It is a silicone based product that can be brushed or rolled on. It is also FAR less expensive than Eterabond tape.

I used it to cover all the areas that were sealed with the factory sealant on the entire camper stem to stern with some of the gallon left over for less than $60.

That was 6 years ago, NO leaks.
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Old 07-28-2020, 06:48 AM   #25
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How du you remove the eternabond from your roof penetrations to replace one? I have heard it’s called eternabond for a reason.

Have a look at RV with TITO this episode: https://youtu.be/zl7edYJaCLE
Brian is a wonder at DIY and worth following.
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Old 07-28-2020, 07:03 AM   #26
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Have a look at RV with TITO this episode: https://youtu.be/zl7edYJaCLE
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Dang, that's some sticky stuff! I wouldn't want to try to remove it from all my roof seams. As stated before, if you need to replace something, i would cut the tape, replace, then re-Eternabond it.
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Old 07-28-2020, 07:31 PM   #27
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Ok so I did one side today and sheez, this stuff is sticky. it is on there but once its on it is on. I have a few bubbles and creases. How would get I get rid those or just leave them?
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Old 07-28-2020, 08:02 PM   #28
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I've used the stuff but not on the roof. Leave the creases and bubbles alone. If you've pressed or rolled it out after you put it on that is all you need to do.

Chris
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Old 07-28-2020, 09:01 PM   #29
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If you can't roll them out, then leave it alone. Let sun and warmth work on it for awhile. Poke a hole for a bubble, then roll it again. The tape is pressure activated for maximum hold on to the surface... rolling and pressure is important.

Your next session with Eternabond and you will be an expert then.
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Old 07-29-2020, 04:18 AM   #30
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Ok so I did one side today and sheez, this stuff is sticky. it is on there but once its on it is on. I have a few bubbles and creases. How would get I get rid those or just leave them?
Try working them out with a small roller like used to seal the edges of wallpaper seams.

In the future when applying this stuff just remove a small short section of the protective tape that covers the sticky side.

Then after sticking down that short exposed strip you peel it away slowly moving toward the other end.

This way you can keep control of the piece and stick it down without bubbles as you peel away that strip.
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Old 07-29-2020, 05:52 AM   #31
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Ok so I did one side today and sheez, this stuff is sticky. it is on there but once its on it is on. I have a few bubbles and creases. How would get I get rid those or just leave them?

According to the manufacturer you should poke a hole in the bubbles and slice off the ridges to make them flat. Then place another piece of tape over the now flattened bubbles and ridges.


See page 2 of this pdf.


https://www.eternabond.com/v/vspfile...ps_install.pdf
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Old 07-29-2020, 07:24 AM   #32
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If you can't roll them out, then leave it alone. Let sun and warmth work on it for awhile. Poke a hole for a bubble, then roll it again. The tape is pressure activated for maximum hold on to the surface... rolling and pressure is important.

Your next session with Eternabond and you will be an expert then.
RSDATA has great advice I wouldn't hesitate to follow. I followed Eternabond instructions he posted in one of his posts and it was very helpful and spot on.
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Old 08-03-2020, 08:46 PM   #33
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Ray from Love Your RV swears by it. I've been considering using it.

https://www.loveyourrv.com/beefing-u...ernabond-tape/
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Old 08-04-2020, 08:36 AM   #34
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Trouble ahead

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I've done Eternabond on the top front roof/wall seam and also the top/side seams. I used a double wide 4" overlap on the front seam and 2" on the sides. I only have the side seam pictures available.
This photo (awning brackets spanning the rain gutter, attached with two lag screws through the 1x2 ribbon) shows trouble ahead. On both of our trailers, water entered along the lag screws, degraded the 1x2 (to powder) and wicked up into the roof decking, making roof soft spots in a semi-circle, about 8 inches in radius.

I'm not sure about the best way to prevent water intrusion here, but I would be tempted to remove the lag screws and place rubber washers or O-rings between the bracket and roof membrane. Maybe butyl tape would be better...
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Old 08-04-2020, 10:02 AM   #35
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This photo (awning brackets spanning the rain gutter, attached with two lag screws through the 1x2 ribbon) shows trouble ahead. On both of our trailers, water entered along the lag screws, degraded the 1x2 (to powder) and wicked up into the roof decking, making roof soft spots in a semi-circle, about 8 inches in radius.

I'm not sure about the best way to prevent water intrusion here, but I would be tempted to remove the lag screws and place rubber washers or O-rings between the bracket and roof membrane. Maybe butyl tape would be better...
Interesting being that placement of the brackets is by Jayco at time of manufacture. I think I'll use butyl tape but I'll keep an eye on this until I get around to doing it. Thanks for mentioning the potential problem.
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Old 08-04-2020, 11:02 AM   #36
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The lag screws are out of sight out of mind (almost).

We take them for granted. At one time they were generously coated with sealant or should have been but time takes its toll.

I think the PM is to back out the screws and re-coat them with the proper sealant

Chris
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Old 08-04-2020, 11:11 AM   #37
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Interesting being that placement of the brackets is by Jayco at time of manufacture. I think I'll use butyl tape but I'll keep an eye on this until I get around to doing it. Thanks for mentioning the potential problem.
On my Jayco the brackets go through the insert trim and trim just about the gutter portion of the trim (area that screws hold trim). Will have to pull at least one of the brackets off as going to replace awning fabric that I lost a 1 1/2 years ago while in storage (Bracket on front end of roller broke sending that end up onto the roof). I'll will either use some butyl tape or use sealant (Flex Pro) when I reinstall them. Maybe both.

After replacing the awning fabric, gutter spouts and insert trim, I plan to Eternabond along roof edges and over trim. Any idea how to work in the awning brackets with the Eternabond. Go over and around the brackets? Or pull both brackets out (am going have to pull the bracket in pic to get awning fabric on anyway), apply Eternabond over trim (not gutter part), then reattach brackets with lug screws breaching the Eternabond and then sealing around lugs?

My gut says pull both brackets, Eternabond and then replace brackets. Any thoughts/suggestions are welcomed.
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Old 08-04-2020, 12:11 PM   #38
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I had planned to tape up my roof joints. After having the new TT for a few short months and seeing how poorly everything was cut and sealed I'm just going to bite the bullet and get rid of it before I lose more than just depreciation. The Grey Wolf 23MK is a total POS, besides I need a fridge that will work all night and actually keep things cold when dry camping! Sorry, didn't mean to rant. Oh crap, yes I did!
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Old 08-04-2020, 12:21 PM   #39
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I am a new Rv'er , my question is is flex tape or paste as good as eternbond?
u c i had all three of the plastic vents on top crack and leak when it rains I covered then with a tarp and used flex tape to hold the tarp on,,, now 8 months later i got new vent covers will install them soon my rv is located in N Georgia and I am in Fl. due to the covid i can't get there anytime soon,,, i hope the tarp was thick enough . jim
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Old 08-04-2020, 01:51 PM   #40
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If you're really gonna do that...

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I had planned to tape up my roof joints. After having the new TT for a few short months and seeing how poorly everything was cut and sealed I'm just going to bite the bullet and get rid of it before I lose more than just depreciation. The Grey Wolf 23MK is a total POS, besides I need a fridge that will work all night and actually keep things cold when dry camping! Sorry, didn't mean to rant. Oh crap, yes I did!
If you're really gonna do that, now's the time. New RVs are in short supply and it's a seller's market. You might even recover your entire cost.
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